Dr.Charles27

John, I apologize. When I did the first transform I put your shell over mine and had to stretch the body upward to acomodate. This caused height distortion; hence destroying the effect. Not to mention I used my suspension height along with rear tire size. I'm sure everyone will agree, these are actual pics of your car with very little if any distortion of the wheels and tires. Enjoy!!! Let me here the comments, especially the 28'' rears at the gas station. (middle pic)

Dr.Charles27

Just to let everyone know the first pic is original with current wheels and tires.

1987firechicken

^^ just to let everyone know chuck loves da ****. LOL photoshop and chuck are getting it going.

My wideband is on the way mc guyver. I will probably need your welding skills to put that bastard in there.

Dr.Charles27

No problem bitch (LOL), you may want to consider not making the wide band a perminate fixture in your trans. The reason I say this is because it will be easier to transfer. Not to mention you will only need it to calibrate tuning. I have absoutly no problem welding a couple bunges in your exaust but we will have to find pipe plugs to cap them off when not in use, unless you want a perminate mount.
P.S. does blood still come out when you ejaculate?

agrV8dta

iTrader: (1)

Photoshop(s) look good Chuck. I think hugger orange is the only color you could put any kind of wheel on and it will still turn out decent.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

Go to a muffler shop, they have the bungs with the caps. Be sure and get the ones with a hex head to unscrew, versus an allen wrench. The allen wrench will round off (ask me how I know ). You can keep the cap in the glove box.

And I agree, the wideband is only really useful for tuning, otherwise it is just a light show. But to each his own.

1987firechicken

The kit I bought comes with the bung and the cap so I win. Also its going to stay in there bc I want to see how the car acts with the stock tune at all times and also to see how much richer I'm running then I need to be. I'll be ricer and perminant it into the passenger y piece bc when i do tune it I need to know if I'm ******* it up and not melt the damn pistons.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I bought the Innovate kit also (although the much smarter LM-1 ) and the bung that came with it had the allen head. It is now permanently embedded in my exhaust system, and I had a bung with the hex head welded in beside it. Just my experience. Enjoy the light show (I'm ribbing you, Alex).
And it won't tell you if you are f'in up, it will tell you when. And point to the exact moment in time when the pistons melted. You can graph it and post it on the wall.
BTW, good choice. Innovate makes good stuff.

Dr.Charles27

I'm wondering what copper antisieze compound would do for the caps. When I r&i o2 sensors I've always used copper antisieze compound, especially copper, due to the heat resistance that it provides. The sensors were always much easier to remove. Ironicly I found using the aluminium antisieze compound dosen't seem to be as effictive on the sensors, however, I always use it on every spark plug change. I have a goofy theroy = Aluminium heads, use aluminium antisieze. Also think mabey the compound makes the threads completely air tight, promoting better combustion possibly.
Ok, I'll quit rambling.

Dr.Charles27

Hey Joe, Thanks for posting our car pics. All those photos turned out great! I check them out about every time I log in!

In return, I'll try to submit some crazy photo of the week and try to get a laugh out of you guys.(DISCLAIMER=may or may not be photoshoped!)

1987firechicken

Well if the ******* allen gets rounded off I'll drill the bastard out or cut off the bung new ones are cheap. I could possibly catch it if it is about to melt just cut the ignition when i notice it going lean. I shouldn't have that problem though as I'm going to be very conservative with tuning it (always a little rich). I like the light show too and if the sensor is crap I'll just burn it up quicker and get a better one. The guy at Maryland speed said to mount it on the passenger header or Y pipe bc that side runs a little leaner, makes sense and i'll have the leanest reading on the car to watch. Should be here in a few days going to be fun. Just need to find a single gauge pod to mount onto my existing A pillar. Yes I'm ricer since it is a blackout gauge. It will go to full blow ricer when I get a boost gauge and a fuel pressure gauge and a 3 pilar for it.

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

The copper anti-sieze sounds like a good idea. Once the bung plug rounds out, just leave it and make another hole. I have the drill bits to do it (imagine that) and it is not that difficult. Since you cannot tune each side or each injector independently, it does not really matter where you place the sensor. There are those that say the further away from the engine you place the sensor, the longer it will last. Second hand information only, my LM-1 does not have that problem.
Just get a 3 gauge pod and be done with it. You and all the other Fisher ricers will fill it up with light shows. Just deal with it. A fuel pressure gauge is crucial, just ask me how I know.
The tuning book you will want is called Engine Management Advanced Tuning by Greg Banish. Destined to be the tuning bible, a fine book. Don't get too caught up in the technical jargon, it covers tuning overall. I got mine used on Amazon for a good price. Good luck.

1987firechicken

LOL I don't want to pull a James and blow the thing up in 2 weeks just messin james. And my mobile lazer/light show will be ready to run it's ***** off come winter. The guy I talked to though that it would be fine he actually told me to mount it in the header but I'd rather mount it in the shitty mild steel Y that I have. Then I don't have to worry about any leaks in the y piping. It comes with software so I can log my AF ration now, the bung, a gauge, and all the other crap. I'm probably going to need help wiring the thing all up too. Gotta find a soldering iron and some looming for the wires to go through a hole in the firewall I have to locate.

1987firechicken

I could get a fuel pressure gauge now but I'd have to find something else usefull to fill the third one until I do the turbo way down the road. Any ideas?

koolaid_kid

iTrader: (21)

I have a soldering station (think of it as a deluxe soldering iron) and some leftover loom. Seems like there should be some posts as to how to get into the cabin, not my area of expertise.
AFA other gauges, is there one for nekkid dancing women? Just asking, you never know.
You said you wanted one for boost, would it be acceptable to leave one empty for now?

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

You could always put a temp gauge in and just cover it up with a pic of some naked guy- ***!
J/K Man... Had to get you back for talking **** about me blowing up the LS1 in (4) weeks!

Good Luck with the tuning!

James

1987firechicken

LOL do you bastards sleep? I could put in a vac gauge and make the needle a **** then james could have it after I go boosted. LOL Its cool I like slinging **** on here.

In all seriousness though I'd rather not have a hole in my pillar. Maybe get a oil pressure or temp gauge. I'm thinking I'd like to go with a more accurate oil pres. gauge then a stock guestimator.

LT1Formula007

iTrader: (66)

LOL, I'll pass on the gauge man...
But thanks anyways.

Yeah I like talking **** on here too!
Well I'm going to bed, I have to be up at 7:00 for work!

James

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

A few people around here have learned the lesson of not having a oil pressure gauge or not having that great of one.....

dheck

iTrader: (9)

So who is going to be the first to go down after I get my POS back on the road with a few upgrades??

It's no B4C car but she should run a solid 13.8...