Some HDR's (My Camaro & Fall Foliage)
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Some HDR's (My Camaro & Fall Foliage)
From Sunday. D70s, 18-70, Photomatix, no Photoshop, though it could use some sharpening and levels adjustments:
From Sunday as well.. nothing special.
Non HDR's:
Not a good shot, but I like Bokeh lol:
From Sunday as well.. nothing special.
Non HDR's:
Not a good shot, but I like Bokeh lol:
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I spend my weekdays living here in West Chester, PA. It's a 45 minute drive from the Philly Airport depending on traffic/time of day. Ever seen "Viva la Bam", "Bam's Unholy Union" or "Jackass"? 90% of Viva la Bam & Bam's Unholy Union and prob 50% of Jackass are/were filmed here. Aside from that, it's a great little town.
But seriously, if you're out here sometime, let me know and I'll give you some discounted rates to shoot your ride.
But seriously, if you're out here sometime, let me know and I'll give you some discounted rates to shoot your ride.
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HDR refers to High Dynamic Range. It basically allows you to photograph a subject as it truly appears, or BETTER in many cases.
The basic principal behind it... I use a Nikon D70s. It allows me to use "Bracket" shooting. I set my bracketed shots for 3 shots, each 2 stops different from the other. This basically creates three photos: -2, 0, and +2. You then use a program, Photomatix in my case, to merge them together. Once merged, it's still nothing special. You then need to use that program to "Tone Map" the new single image. This is what brings out the final product.
You can also use just one imagine, ONLY if it's a RAW image. This helps for you to take photos in diverse conditions (moving vehicle traffic, pedestrians, trees, whatever). You then use a RAW editing program to change the stops manually as with the 3 photo routine. You then save 3 versions of that original RAW. -2, 0, and 2 EV as before. Make sure the RAW editing program does NOT save file info, and if it does delete it. If this is not done, it will not work properly and will look like poop. At this point, you then go ahead and Tone Map as before, and you get a similarly good final product.
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You can also use just one imagine, ONLY if it's a RAW image. This helps for you to take photos in diverse conditions (moving vehicle traffic, pedestrians, trees, whatever). You then use a RAW editing program to change the stops manually as with the 3 photo routine. You then save 3 versions of that original RAW. -2, 0, and 2 EV as before. Make sure the RAW editing program does NOT save file info, and if it does delete it. If this is not done, it will not work properly and will look like poop. At this point, you then go ahead and Tone Map as before, and you get a similarly good final product.
My 300D won't do it. The sensor doesn't pick up enough of the detail unless I get all three exposures.
Well...let me rephrase that. It will do it, just doesn't come out all that well. Basicly either looks overprocessed or like the source file.
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Yes, the tree has a face LOL.
Mr. Luos: Are you sure you are deleting ALL the EXIF data that's attached to the copies of the RAW file you make? You need to delete the original, and if it allows you, edit it to be -2 and +2. That's the only way it'll actually work as Photomatix uses EXIF data to do it's thing.
Mr. Luos: Are you sure you are deleting ALL the EXIF data that's attached to the copies of the RAW file you make? You need to delete the original, and if it allows you, edit it to be -2 and +2. That's the only way it'll actually work as Photomatix uses EXIF data to do it's thing.
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Yes, the tree has a face LOL.
Mr. Luos: Are you sure you are deleting ALL the EXIF data that's attached to the copies of the RAW file you make? You need to delete the original, and if it allows you, edit it to be -2 and +2. That's the only way it'll actually work as Photomatix uses EXIF data to do it's thing.
Mr. Luos: Are you sure you are deleting ALL the EXIF data that's attached to the copies of the RAW file you make? You need to delete the original, and if it allows you, edit it to be -2 and +2. That's the only way it'll actually work as Photomatix uses EXIF data to do it's thing.
I'll have to check.
I know PhotoMatix asks me what steps the exposure is....and I have to pick it. The 3 exposure route it doesn't ask. Meaning I assume the EXIF data isn't deleted.
Although, I normally throw them in PhotoMatix as TIFF's.
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Since I am asked this quite a bit, I found a previous reply I wrote on another forum lol:
HDR refers to High Dynamic Range. It basically allows you to photograph a subject as it truly appears, or BETTER in many cases.
The basic principal behind it... I use a Nikon D70s. It allows me to use "Bracket" shooting. I set my bracketed shots for 3 shots, each 2 stops different from the other. This basically creates three photos: -2, 0, and +2. You then use a program, Photomatix in my case, to merge them together. Once merged, it's still nothing special. You then need to use that program to "Tone Map" the new single image. This is what brings out the final product.
You can also use just one imagine, ONLY if it's a RAW image. This helps for you to take photos in diverse conditions (moving vehicle traffic, pedestrians, trees, whatever). You then use a RAW editing program to change the stops manually as with the 3 photo routine. You then save 3 versions of that original RAW. -2, 0, and 2 EV as before. Make sure the RAW editing program does NOT save file info, and if it does delete it. If this is not done, it will not work properly and will look like poop. At this point, you then go ahead and Tone Map as before, and you get a similarly good final product.
HDR refers to High Dynamic Range. It basically allows you to photograph a subject as it truly appears, or BETTER in many cases.
The basic principal behind it... I use a Nikon D70s. It allows me to use "Bracket" shooting. I set my bracketed shots for 3 shots, each 2 stops different from the other. This basically creates three photos: -2, 0, and +2. You then use a program, Photomatix in my case, to merge them together. Once merged, it's still nothing special. You then need to use that program to "Tone Map" the new single image. This is what brings out the final product.
You can also use just one imagine, ONLY if it's a RAW image. This helps for you to take photos in diverse conditions (moving vehicle traffic, pedestrians, trees, whatever). You then use a RAW editing program to change the stops manually as with the 3 photo routine. You then save 3 versions of that original RAW. -2, 0, and 2 EV as before. Make sure the RAW editing program does NOT save file info, and if it does delete it. If this is not done, it will not work properly and will look like poop. At this point, you then go ahead and Tone Map as before, and you get a similarly good final product.
Thanks man great info
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The "black spots" as you refer to them are called "noise." It's part of photography. It's always there, just in varying amounts with some being incredibly easy to see and others being nearly impossible. If you want further info, read here:
http://www.imatest.com/docs/noise.html
And you're welcome for the info.
http://www.imatest.com/docs/noise.html
And you're welcome for the info.
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I know what noise is. I mean black areas I guess. Not specks or spots.
Or you can look at it as a "halo" around the trees. Which is a better description of what I was talking about..
It's in pics #1, 4, 5, and 6.
Or you can look at it as a "halo" around the trees. Which is a better description of what I was talking about..
It's in pics #1, 4, 5, and 6.
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Oooh, the shadowing/ghosting effect or w/e you want to call it. Yah I get carried away looking at the main image and often times forget about that happy medium where the trees and sky collide.
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I can show you the photos next to the non-HDR versions. The HDR's are so much better. Hands down. My album is here if you want confirmation of that:
http://pafirefighter11.smugmug.com/g.../6447228_t4nC6
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I can show you the photos next to the non-HDR versions. The HDR's are so much better. Hands down. My album is here if you want confirmation of that:
http://pafirefighter11.smugmug.com/g.../6447228_t4nC6
http://pafirefighter11.smugmug.com/g.../6447228_t4nC6
I PP these from the link you gave, using only one single JPEG.
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Smugmug rocks doesn't it?
I am using a D200 and just downloaded photomatix and tried a few HDR's, not sure if I'm doing the 'details enhancer' stuff right... how do these look?
My first little try with HDR... how does this look?
I am using a D200 and just downloaded photomatix and tried a few HDR's, not sure if I'm doing the 'details enhancer' stuff right... how do these look?
My first little try with HDR... how does this look?