drivetrain mods
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 24
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From: Dallas
drivetrain mods Looking to redo my drivetrain pretty much the whole thing. Got the stall convertor taken care of decided to go a bit bigger than I have. Basicly was wondering if anyone can tell me if the litewight flexplate is worth a crap? Should I spend 70 bucks on this mod? And also Looking to up my horse power soon to 385rwhp to about 450rwhp in the next couple of months does anyone know about how much a aluminum drive shaft can handle?
I've never looked into any of the light-weight Flexplates so I don't know. I was running an Aluminum Driveshaft when I had my Auto in the Car, never busted it, blew the Rear up with it though.
aluminum will be fine until you get past 600 i would think.
suspension for that kind of power would be as follows:
1. 9", 12 bolt, anything bigger
2. Built tranny/bigger clutch if manual
3. STICKY TIRES (without this your hp/rwtq is useless)
4. TA (torque arm)
5. shocks/springs (depends on what you want, street/strip)
6. sfcs, lca's(if wheelhopping),phb
suspension for that kind of power would be as follows:
1. 9", 12 bolt, anything bigger
2. Built tranny/bigger clutch if manual
3. STICKY TIRES (without this your hp/rwtq is useless)
4. TA (torque arm)
5. shocks/springs (depends on what you want, street/strip)
6. sfcs, lca's(if wheelhopping),phb
The older years' flexplate is somewhat more stout
than later, I'm not sure where the dividing line is
but if your 'plate is all round holes, keep it and if
they are "kidney shaped" then replace with an
early or aftermarket. Light weight is not much of
an improvement, durability is priceless. Really big
power wants a SFI approved one but you're not
there yet.
than later, I'm not sure where the dividing line is
but if your 'plate is all round holes, keep it and if
they are "kidney shaped" then replace with an
early or aftermarket. Light weight is not much of
an improvement, durability is priceless. Really big
power wants a SFI approved one but you're not
there yet.
