factory thermostat
12-25-2008, 07:24 PM
#1
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factory thermostat ok ive searched this and ive come up with a bunch of different results what is the factory thermo temp ive found results saying 195, 180, and 187 also searching ive seen where some one said not to run a 160 because its to cold and causes the engine to run at open loop and that a 180 is the best?
12-25-2008, 08:14 PM
#2
So whats your question exactly?
My factory installed thermostat in my 2001 Z28 is 86 degrees celsius, which is 186.8*F
I adjusted my fan temps using a tuning device. With the factory gauge and an Autometer gauge running temp varies between 185 to 199. High fan kicks on at 200 so it hardly ever goes above that.
There have been long lengthy posts of people arguing about the 160* thermostat.
Heres a pic of my 2001 LS1's factory installed thermostat.
My factory installed thermostat in my 2001 Z28 is 86 degrees celsius, which is 186.8*F
I adjusted my fan temps using a tuning device. With the factory gauge and an Autometer gauge running temp varies between 185 to 199. High fan kicks on at 200 so it hardly ever goes above that.
There have been long lengthy posts of people arguing about the 160* thermostat.
Heres a pic of my 2001 LS1's factory installed thermostat.
12-25-2008, 08:20 PM
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o so it says it right on there huh pretty cool, i was just wondering what the factory thermo was and also after searching about the 160 i came up with some specutlation weather or not to use it so i was just looking for some more feed back on them since im about to order one and im debating weather to get a 160 or 180
12-25-2008, 08:26 PM
#4
After I put that up I looked at my stock tune, theres nothing I see in there that is going to make it run in OL with a 160.
I wouldn't use a thermostat that cold, especially if you do no tuning to the fan on/off temps.
Thats just my opinion though I guess.
I wouldn't use a thermostat that cold, especially if you do no tuning to the fan on/off temps.
Thats just my opinion though I guess.
12-25-2008, 08:42 PM
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yea thats what i was thinking but here is the post where i read that
I've talked with GM techs, and they say that these cars like to run a little warmer to perform the best... and to not use a 160* t-stat which will stay open all the time and not actually allow the coolant to "cool off" to actually cool the engine...
here's some additional info I have:
============================
What effect the 160 stat has on the engine/computer depends on different factors. In terms of achieving closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor plays a more important role - it will not function until the exhaust temperature is at least 660 degrees F. To a degree this is a function of the coolant temp, so it is possible that abnormally cold coolant temps can prevent closed loop operation.
If the coolant reaches 160 degrees, there should be no problem, as the torque converter lockup AIR, and EGR function at temps over (approximately) 150 degrees F. The trouble is that overcooling (and subsequent chronic open loop operation) is much more likely with the colder stat, since you are running that much closer to the "crossover" temp. This is especially true in colder climates, where the ambient temperature can contribute to the overcooling problem. A 160 stat is probably not a good idea if the ambient temperature is below 75 degrees F, or if a significant percentage of the driving time is spent on the highway. In that case, go with the 180 instead.
Aside from loss of converter lockup, AIR, and EGR operation, overcooling can cause an abnormally rich air/fuel ratio, which at best will make your fuel economy and performance suffer, and at worst will destroy the catalytic converter. In any case, the colder stat is not much good without changing the temperature at which the radiator fan activates. During city driving, the fan will simply wait until the coolant reaches 225 degrees F to turn on, which is what you were trying to avoid in the first place.
I've talked with GM techs, and they say that these cars like to run a little warmer to perform the best... and to not use a 160* t-stat which will stay open all the time and not actually allow the coolant to "cool off" to actually cool the engine...
here's some additional info I have:
============================
What effect the 160 stat has on the engine/computer depends on different factors. In terms of achieving closed loop operation, the oxygen sensor plays a more important role - it will not function until the exhaust temperature is at least 660 degrees F. To a degree this is a function of the coolant temp, so it is possible that abnormally cold coolant temps can prevent closed loop operation.
If the coolant reaches 160 degrees, there should be no problem, as the torque converter lockup AIR, and EGR function at temps over (approximately) 150 degrees F. The trouble is that overcooling (and subsequent chronic open loop operation) is much more likely with the colder stat, since you are running that much closer to the "crossover" temp. This is especially true in colder climates, where the ambient temperature can contribute to the overcooling problem. A 160 stat is probably not a good idea if the ambient temperature is below 75 degrees F, or if a significant percentage of the driving time is spent on the highway. In that case, go with the 180 instead.
Aside from loss of converter lockup, AIR, and EGR operation, overcooling can cause an abnormally rich air/fuel ratio, which at best will make your fuel economy and performance suffer, and at worst will destroy the catalytic converter. In any case, the colder stat is not much good without changing the temperature at which the radiator fan activates. During city driving, the fan will simply wait until the coolant reaches 225 degrees F to turn on, which is what you were trying to avoid in the first place.
