To stall or not to stall?
03-07-2009 | 05:28 AM
#23
The short answer would be no....I would make sure you get tuned, get a trans cooler and and a shift kit.
If your car has a lot of miles be prepared to replace the trans. The trans cooler is the most important thing. 4L60s don't like heat. They also don't like to be spun really hard....
03-08-2009 | 03:45 AM
#24
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 398
Likes: 0
From: Grande Prairie, AB. That's Canada you hoser.
I've never driven a vehicel with a stall before I bought a used Vig 3200, but I do really like it.
It drives nice in town with the bumper to bumper traffic and its there like RIGHT NOW when you stab the gas.
Break torquing slightly at street lights will give you the 'insta' burnout factor if you pin the petal to the fire wall soon as it turn green.
The downside is that driving the car with any amount of snow/ice will be deadly. Don't even think about it, infact, you shouldn't be driving around in the snow anyways with a 300+whp rwd car....
I moved my car two block last spring and it took me 15 minutes @ a whopping top speed of 10km/h because any thing over 1000rpm was a sceen straight out of Tokyo drift.
Tack times with stick tires should see a 3-4tenth reduction.
As for myself, I went from 14.1 to 13.3 @ 98mph with drag radials and a stall.
Elevation plays a huge part in quarter mile times and a lot of people seem to not realize it. My 60' times went from the stock 1.9s to 1.79after M/T's and stall.
I paid 330US for this used vig with 3K miles on it.
Only problem I ran into was a stuck solenoid code that put my trany into limp mode, but it was just a code that was easily disabled.
Trany cooler certainly isn't going to hurt anything.
As for the rearend, its the same thing that you'll find in an S-10. Its weak, end of story. Daily drive it nicely and it'll last a long time, race it once a month like me durring the summer and you'll make it a year and a 1/2 before it needs a rebuild.
As far as milage goes, I'm not sure how that's effected as I had the rearend rebuilt and opted for 3.73's while the rearend was apart so my mileage took a hit now that I'm sitting around 2200rpm @ 60mph.
It drives nice in town with the bumper to bumper traffic and its there like RIGHT NOW when you stab the gas.
Break torquing slightly at street lights will give you the 'insta' burnout factor if you pin the petal to the fire wall soon as it turn green.
The downside is that driving the car with any amount of snow/ice will be deadly. Don't even think about it, infact, you shouldn't be driving around in the snow anyways with a 300+whp rwd car....
I moved my car two block last spring and it took me 15 minutes @ a whopping top speed of 10km/h because any thing over 1000rpm was a sceen straight out of Tokyo drift.
Tack times with stick tires should see a 3-4tenth reduction.
As for myself, I went from 14.1 to 13.3 @ 98mph with drag radials and a stall.
Elevation plays a huge part in quarter mile times and a lot of people seem to not realize it. My 60' times went from the stock 1.9s to 1.79after M/T's and stall.
I paid 330US for this used vig with 3K miles on it.
Only problem I ran into was a stuck solenoid code that put my trany into limp mode, but it was just a code that was easily disabled.
Trany cooler certainly isn't going to hurt anything.
As for the rearend, its the same thing that you'll find in an S-10. Its weak, end of story. Daily drive it nicely and it'll last a long time, race it once a month like me durring the summer and you'll make it a year and a 1/2 before it needs a rebuild.
As far as milage goes, I'm not sure how that's effected as I had the rearend rebuilt and opted for 3.73's while the rearend was apart so my mileage took a hit now that I'm sitting around 2200rpm @ 60mph.
