Damn you F&F Tokyo Drift.... DAMN YOU!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

the tires for drifting are pretty wide, the viper drift car has 285's on the back

 

Well to prevent the "up-shifting", just pull the shifter into "2" or "3" depending on the speed. For learning, it's preferable to keep it 2nd and go around 40 miles, and prevent that upshift from happening.

 

Considering the viper comes stock with at least 335s I would say thats pretty small for a viper.. lol, a modded drift viper to be that.

 

I read an article about Rod MIllen's GTO drift car a few year back. They do all kinds of suspension tweaks, by changing the swaybars and spring rates, IIRC, they get the front to stick better and the rear to handle looser. Also, they modify the rack and steering knuckles to allow quicker steering and more steering angle.

I think if set up properly, a F-Body could make a great drift car.

 

where in my post did I say road racing is drifting? All I did was say you were wrong saying the f-body is made to drag race.

 

i would love to see a trans am drift car. maybe with an LS7 swap

 

Ok well I wasn't talking about road racing, this post is about drifting, the cars are alright for road racing but specialize in drag racing, so whats your point with drifting?

 

My comment about road racing was in reply to you saying they were made to drag race. The original camaros were made to roadrace, not drag.

 

Not any more modded than the "lightweight" cars. ALL cars in the D1 series have some serious suspension mods.

OP heres another vid with Fbodies drifting: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j6bLr...elated&search=

 

all these mods you guys are talking about generally only pertain to D1 cars. The main focus here should be street-driftable cars. D1 car to street car is like comparing F1 car to a street car. All you need to drift is rear wheel drive, and a manual tranny. Steering angle doesnt matter becuase you steer with the throttle. A manual is required when you start getting good becuase you steer with the throttle. When you break loose, too much throttle and you spin out. Too little and you will more or less straighten out. So it comes down to increasing, decreasing, and holding your throttle feed. In an automatic, any of these will make it want to shift. Its doable but save yourself the trouble and get a manual.

In a drift car, weight doesnt matter. Steering doesnt matter. Power doesnt even matter. One of the most popular drift cars is the 84-86 corolla which has barely 100 horsepower and still weighs almost 3000 pounds. The reason 240s and corollas etc are so popular is becuase of weight or steering angle, its becuase they are rwd, and cheap! And even better, parts are plentiful and cheap. Youll see weekenders and amatures with these cars becyase theyre still learning and can replace almost anything instantly when they hit a wall. In D1 there are all kinds of sponsers the only reason they use nicer cars is becuase they are given to them for free for the sake of the companies image. Rys uses solstices and gtos becuase thats what pontiac sends him. The viper was used becuase it was what was sent, now they have the charger. All of these people are competing for big money is why they start getting all technical and foing all the crazy suspension and weight savings and big turbos but you know what? There are still corallas making under 250hp competing in the japanese D1 and beating 1000+hp skylines and supras. So it goes to show its all about skill.

 

to start i would recommend some hard 225 wide tires, a manual valve body shift kit in the tranny, and a big tranny cooler. then practice, alot! find people with similar cars to yours and find out what they have done to improve the predictability of how it handles, how to get it to rotate and recover easiest.

 

I say go for it! It's your car!