FTRA and cut-out questions?
08-18-2009, 10:03 AM
#22
Fernco mod is using a piece of heater hose in place of the bellows behind the airbox. The idea is that it creates less resistance since the walls are smooth, but I've yet to see any real evidence that it does anything but look better. It certainly won't hurt.
I assume by tps you mean the TPS bump stop mod? A lot of people will caution against it because you're basically tricking the computer and opening the throttle past what it thinks is 100%, so you could, in theory, cause the motor to go lean.
I assume by tps you mean the TPS bump stop mod? A lot of people will caution against it because you're basically tricking the computer and opening the throttle past what it thinks is 100%, so you could, in theory, cause the motor to go lean.
08-23-2009, 07:55 PM
#23
I also wish I hadn't removed that extra radiator baffling which was part of the '99-'00 FRA trend of trying to get more air into the intake. I'm having a problem with my FTRA causing me to run pretty warm (220's to 230's) in commuter traffic with the AC on because it blocks so much of the condenser. This is the first summer I've had the A/C working since I originally installed the FTRA. Also hydralocked a motor with the FTRA and that makes me very paranoid about driving it in the rain or through puddles. I would not recommend the FTRA for those reasons personally. If you decide to get one, at least have your condenser and cooling system completely serviced so you know there's nothing wrong with it when the temps go up.
I'd like to know what your goals are with the vehicle. But if I were in your shoes I'd consider:
- Lid and paper filter
- a manual cut-out which is easy to reach with car on the ground
- shorter gears will make the car peppier but needs minor tuning (relatively low cost for this change), and install requires competent mechanic.
- LS6 intake if you don't already have one. Look for a used unit. Tuning needed to optimize it. Install is relatively simple.
I tend to prefer bland functional equipment to flashy versions. The throttle body bypass is intended to bypass the throttle body so you don't have the coolant temp possibly warming up the throttle body, thus possibly heating your air and reducing your air mass. I only like it because it's one less thing to disconnect in the engine bay. I had no proven gains with:
- Ported truck throttle body
- ASP crank pulley
I'd like to know what your goals are with the vehicle. But if I were in your shoes I'd consider:
- Lid and paper filter
- a manual cut-out which is easy to reach with car on the ground
- shorter gears will make the car peppier but needs minor tuning (relatively low cost for this change), and install requires competent mechanic.
- LS6 intake if you don't already have one. Look for a used unit. Tuning needed to optimize it. Install is relatively simple.
I tend to prefer bland functional equipment to flashy versions. The throttle body bypass is intended to bypass the throttle body so you don't have the coolant temp possibly warming up the throttle body, thus possibly heating your air and reducing your air mass. I only like it because it's one less thing to disconnect in the engine bay. I had no proven gains with:
- Ported truck throttle body
- ASP crank pulley
08-23-2009, 10:37 PM
#24
[QUOTE=JonCR96Z;12087339 If you're interested in racing the FTRA is worth it. You could make your own for a lot less, but either way it's worth it.[/QUOTE]
I agree. I love my FTRA. I DID seem to notice a seat of the pants improvement. The driveability also seems improved, perhaps due to lower IAT readings.
I agree. I love my FTRA. I DID seem to notice a seat of the pants improvement. The driveability also seems improved, perhaps due to lower IAT readings.
08-23-2009, 11:36 PM
#25
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I had the slp version and there wasnt any difference in just cutting the hole and having the duct. If you really look at the design of these things an extended thin mail slot isnt going to do anything and any air that would "pressurize" would escape through the front end of the lower airbox. But by just cutting the hole you dont have anything to really lose, and a little extra cash to spend on something that will really help. Between the free ram air mod, small cutout at the 90 where it goes into the muffler and the lid were the cheapest power you can get on these cars without going to nitros oxide. For around 500 if I had to do it all over the first things I would do would be cut the lower airbox hole, small cutout in the 90, tuning software, and a cheap used lid. Another thing I did was use weatherstripping and some of the leftover plastic to seal the hole to the lower airbox, I more or less used the airdam and all the plastic under the car as an air ram, I dont know if this did anything, but if I remember right I ran a 12.81 at 107 with these things in 65-75 degree weather with a lid, cutout, and free ram air.
08-23-2009, 11:56 PM
#27
I had the slp version and there wasnt any difference in just cutting the hole and having the duct. If you really look at the design of these things an extended thin mail slot isnt going to do anything and any air that would "pressurize" would escape through the front end of the lower airbox. But by just cutting the hole you dont have anything to really lose, and a little extra cash to spend on something that will really help. Between the free ram air mod, small cutout at the 90 where it goes into the muffler and the lid were the cheapest power you can get on these cars without going to nitros oxide. For around 500 if I had to do it all over the first things I would do would be cut the lower airbox hole, small cutout in the 90, tuning software, and a cheap used lid. Another thing I did was use weatherstripping and some of the leftover plastic to seal the hole to the lower airbox, I more or less used the airdam and all the plastic under the car as an air ram, I dont know if this did anything, but if I remember right I ran a 12.81 at 107 with these things in 65-75 degree weather with a lid, cutout, and free ram air.
08-24-2009, 12:22 AM
#28
I understand that you're interested in cheaper mods at this point, but, from a performance standpoint with an A4, there are few relatively simple individual mods that will have as big an impact on your car's performance as a higher stall converter. A good one will set you back more than $500, but it can transform your car's personality. It was the first mod I made to my car, and mine was like a different car afterwards. I can't think of anything else that would give you a bigger bang for your buck, aside from juice.
08-24-2009, 10:15 AM
#29
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Anyone trying to sell you something like that is scammer anyway, even the FTRA. You are going to seal off the box from the front and move the source of air farther from the intake and thats supposed to help you gain hp. Now instead of having it in line of sight with the intake you are putting a 90 in the system.
08-24-2009, 11:10 AM
#30
Gears are always, ALWAYS a Great Mod.
I like the LS6 Intake ALOT, very good upgrade of the stock LS1 intake.
Love the cut out Idea.
These are probabley the three I would look into the most. I know that this isnt nessacarally 500 bucks but those are some very good mods that will help you and will make your car faster and sound more aggressive.
Good Luck
08-24-2009, 11:36 AM
#31
Anyone trying to sell you something like that is scammer anyway, even the FTRA. You are going to seal off the box from the front and move the source of air farther from the intake and thats supposed to help you gain hp. Now instead of having it in line of sight with the intake you are putting a 90 in the system.
you'd rather have a 1" tall slit that's 90% blocked off by the hood latch? the FTRA takes air from the bottom of the car and directs it in a somewhat smooth transition(not a 90 degree kink) straight into the filter, not indirectly and perpendicularly like the stock setup. it does add power at higher speeds, and it will yield gains.
this guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
08-24-2009, 11:58 AM
#32
Look at the classifieds, I did all the bolt ons and saved a ton of money. Most of the stuff was even picked up locally so I saved on shipping.
Lid and home made ram air is fine. I have the ram air from the hood and the cutout from the radiator still gets dirty faster so it must be working. Porting the stock throttle body gives a little power increase but the throttle response is huge, just dont knife edge the plate, and if you do the half shaft it might be neccessary to smoothe the plate edge but do so a tiny bit at a time. DON'T TOUCH THE MAF, not even the screen. it doesnt do anything but waste the sensor and will make the engine run lean and wont be tunable when you are ready.
Long tube headers and full exhaust not only gave a great seat of the pants feel but sounds great and makes the car fun to drive.
LS6 intake also made a good difference before the tune and even more after all the bolt ons.
If you want some suspension upgrades, lower control arms and a panhard bar make the rear end feel much more stable, also sway bars and a strut tower bar help.
But definitely check the classifieds, when you buy new it only stays nice for a little while anyway!
Lid and home made ram air is fine. I have the ram air from the hood and the cutout from the radiator still gets dirty faster so it must be working. Porting the stock throttle body gives a little power increase but the throttle response is huge, just dont knife edge the plate, and if you do the half shaft it might be neccessary to smoothe the plate edge but do so a tiny bit at a time. DON'T TOUCH THE MAF, not even the screen. it doesnt do anything but waste the sensor and will make the engine run lean and wont be tunable when you are ready.
Long tube headers and full exhaust not only gave a great seat of the pants feel but sounds great and makes the car fun to drive.
LS6 intake also made a good difference before the tune and even more after all the bolt ons.
If you want some suspension upgrades, lower control arms and a panhard bar make the rear end feel much more stable, also sway bars and a strut tower bar help.
But definitely check the classifieds, when you buy new it only stays nice for a little while anyway!
08-25-2009, 12:02 PM
#34
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So does opening up the hole with out the stupid mail slot. The farther away you pull the air into the less you are going to pull so whatever.
^^^ to the OP, anyone who tries to tell you something like this is just WRONG
you'd rather have a 1" tall slit that's 90% blocked off by the hood latch? the FTRA takes air from the bottom of the car and directs it in a somewhat smooth transition(not a 90 degree kink) straight into the filter, not indirectly and perpendicularly like the stock setup. it does add power at higher speeds, and it will yield gains.
this guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
you'd rather have a 1" tall slit that's 90% blocked off by the hood latch? the FTRA takes air from the bottom of the car and directs it in a somewhat smooth transition(not a 90 degree kink) straight into the filter, not indirectly and perpendicularly like the stock setup. it does add power at higher speeds, and it will yield gains.
this guy doesn't know what he's talking about.
08-25-2009, 12:33 PM
#36
first of all, "whatever" is not a valid argument. all it does is show that you are not open minded, unwilling to learn, and too stubborn to admit that you are wrong.
the idea behind a RAM AIR kit, is that it RAMS AIR. thus, the engine does NOT have to suck as hard once the car starts moving, even though the air it's getting is coming from further away.
it MAY make a few hp less on the dyno as there is no increase in airflow, but once the car is moving it works. it frees up power. it's a fact. you can't argue it. it has been proven.
08-26-2009, 01:45 AM
#37
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no.
first of all, "whatever" is not a valid argument. all it does is show that you are not open minded, unwilling to learn, and too stubborn to admit that you are wrong.
the idea behind a RAM AIR kit, is that it RAMS AIR. thus, the engine does NOT have to suck as hard once the car starts moving, even though the air it's getting is coming from further away.
it MAY make a few hp less on the dyno as there is no increase in airflow, but once the car is moving it works. it frees up power. it's a fact. you can't argue it. it has been proven.
first of all, "whatever" is not a valid argument. all it does is show that you are not open minded, unwilling to learn, and too stubborn to admit that you are wrong.
the idea behind a RAM AIR kit, is that it RAMS AIR. thus, the engine does NOT have to suck as hard once the car starts moving, even though the air it's getting is coming from further away.
it MAY make a few hp less on the dyno as there is no increase in airflow, but once the car is moving it works. it frees up power. it's a fact. you can't argue it. it has been proven.
08-26-2009, 02:33 AM
#39
Thanks. And yes, I actually am going to outrun people with couple pound piece of garbage hanging from my air box.
If you want to argue heating issues and stuff like that are really nothing more than pointless drivel, then so be it. But if you think that a ram air "kit" offers no performance gain over a free ram air setup, then you really should try one out.
08-26-2009, 07:20 AM
#40
Even if the ram air scoop does make a few extra horses, thats not whats allowing you to outrun anyone, it takes more than just a ram air and we are talking mods on a budget, there is always some way to sqeeze some more power out but it may not be as cost efficient as another mod.