Engine Build Question? Long Read
I have been on this website for a few years now and have learned alot about our cars. I am thinking of building a motor for my car for sometime and I would like to do some of the work myself, this will be my first ever build and I am doing my research but i do have a few questions.
A little about my car, it's a 98 LS1 A4 with a lid,catback,3400 stall, I have a set of LT's/ORY in the garage ready to be installed this winter and I will be sending my tb out to be ported and I am looking for an ls6 or better intake.
My question is I want more cubes, I want N/A and maybe spray a little down the road, the car will rarely see the strip and my goal is to have a nice daily driven setup around 450hp with no worries about reliability.
How to I achieve a 383 from my current ls1 or do i need to buy a seperate block? I am planning forged internals, but do I need a forged crank, i am hearing mixed reviews but the stock crank can handle 500hp?
Sorry for the long read but if someone can give me some insight.
A little about my car, it's a 98 LS1 A4 with a lid,catback,3400 stall, I have a set of LT's/ORY in the garage ready to be installed this winter and I will be sending my tb out to be ported and I am looking for an ls6 or better intake.
My question is I want more cubes, I want N/A and maybe spray a little down the road, the car will rarely see the strip and my goal is to have a nice daily driven setup around 450hp with no worries about reliability.
How to I achieve a 383 from my current ls1 or do i need to buy a seperate block? I am planning forged internals, but do I need a forged crank, i am hearing mixed reviews but the stock crank can handle 500hp?
Sorry for the long read but if someone can give me some insight.
The stock crank can handle 1000+ hp. I'm running a stock crank with forged rods/pistons no problem. If you go to a stroker you'll need a differant crank (4.0" stroke VS 3.622 stock stroke). A 383 with a nice head/cam/intake, will get you 500 (+-) rear wheel HP N/A.
thanks for the help i thought that the stock crank was good, if i wasnt going to use any nos i wouldnt really need a forged crank. How much would i have to bore about the cylinders to accomadate 383ci or do i just need a bigger crank? does gm make a 4.00" crank not forged?
I dont believe GM makes a 4.00" stroke crank. The Ls1 can't be bored with out resleeving the cylinder, not a cheap option. You can hone the cylinders to a 347ci, to accept the slightly larger piston. The block may have to be clearanced to fit the larger stroke. You will buy a new rotating assembly (crank, rods, pistions)----> all different than the stockers.
IMO if you are going N/A build the 383 will make much more TQ. much earlier in the power band. For a FI car 346 CI in the LS1 block is usually preferred. I plan a 383 making 470ish and spraying a 150 shot in th 600+ range that net me high 10's all motor and high 9's on the N2o......
Having said that if you don't mind an iron block you can get more cubes and beat those #'s easily...
Having said that if you don't mind an iron block you can get more cubes and beat those #'s easily...
sorry for the late response, i don't really mind the extra weight up front from a 6.0L iron block i think its around 80 pounds which is not that bad considering, my only concern is that my ls1 components wouldnt bolt up, can i still use the 4L60E with the 6.0L iron block? Id like to keep the components as stock as possible. I dont know if there is an easy way to achieve more cubes econmically.
Trending Topics
factory coils are great. dont use aftermarket.
1 3/4 headers will do just fine for what you are wanting to do IMO.
The factory PCM will do just fine.
You may want to consider a good tranny, or having yours beefed up internally.
1 3/4 headers will do just fine for what you are wanting to do IMO.
The factory PCM will do just fine.
You may want to consider a good tranny, or having yours beefed up internally.


