Part throttle flat spot in torque curve between 2500-3000rpm
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Like the title says, I have a '00 Camaro M6 (stock), and at part throttle there seems to be a flat spot between 2500 - 3000 rpm. In other words, it pulls strong up to 2500, then feels a bit weaker, then pulls strong after 3000rpm. This is only at part throttle and is not noticable at full throttle.
Anyone else have the same issue?
I'm thinking of replacing the stock spark plugs (car has ~65k miles). Any other suggestions.
Thanks.
Anyone else have the same issue?
I'm thinking of replacing the stock spark plugs (car has ~65k miles). Any other suggestions.
Thanks.
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do you get this in all gears (meaning different speeds) but at the same rpm?
go put it on the dyno and actually see what it's doing.
although with that many miles....plugs are not a bad idea. at 50K miles 4 or 8 plugs were missing the platnum puck...giving the plugs a huge spark gap
go put it on the dyno and actually see what it's doing.
although with that many miles....plugs are not a bad idea. at 50K miles 4 or 8 plugs were missing the platnum puck...giving the plugs a huge spark gap
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do you get this in all gears (meaning different speeds) but at the same rpm?
go put it on the dyno and actually see what it's doing.
although with that many miles....plugs are not a bad idea. at 50K miles 4 or 8 plugs were missing the platnum puck...giving the plugs a huge spark gap
go put it on the dyno and actually see what it's doing.
although with that many miles....plugs are not a bad idea. at 50K miles 4 or 8 plugs were missing the platnum puck...giving the plugs a huge spark gap
I'll start w/ plugs and see if that fixes it.
Regarding the datalogger suggestion, what specifically did you have in mind to log?
Thanks for the feedback.
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I had this very problem about a week ago.
The problem I was having is the car would pull hard until
about 2500 rpm & them it would lose power. It would lose
power from about 2500 - 3000 rpm. Once it got to 3000 rpm
it would run fine.
With my car it didn't matter if I was part throttle or WOT.
The problem was my K&N air filter. Aftermarket oiled air
filters will get oil on your MAF sensor & throw your readings off.
I used a ton of electric cleaner on my maf sensor & cleaned it
well with Q-tips. It worked like a charm & now my engine pulls
hard right through the rpm band.
You should give that a try. You can get electrical cleaner at
most auto part stores. Just be careful with the MAF wires.
If it was me, I would try it even before the spark plugs.
The problem I was having is the car would pull hard until
about 2500 rpm & them it would lose power. It would lose
power from about 2500 - 3000 rpm. Once it got to 3000 rpm
it would run fine.
With my car it didn't matter if I was part throttle or WOT.
The problem was my K&N air filter. Aftermarket oiled air
filters will get oil on your MAF sensor & throw your readings off.
I used a ton of electric cleaner on my maf sensor & cleaned it
well with Q-tips. It worked like a charm & now my engine pulls
hard right through the rpm band.
You should give that a try. You can get electrical cleaner at
most auto part stores. Just be careful with the MAF wires.
If it was me, I would try it even before the spark plugs.
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#9
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I had this very problem about a week ago.
The problem I was having is the car would pull hard until
about 2500 rpm & them it would lose power. It would lose
power from about 2500 - 3000 rpm. Once it got to 3000 rpm
it would run fine.
With my car it didn't matter if I was part throttle or WOT.
The problem was my K&N air filter. Aftermarket oiled air
filters will get oil on your MAF sensor & throw your readings off.
I used a ton of electric cleaner on my maf sensor & cleaned it
well with Q-tips. It worked like a charm & now my engine pulls
hard right through the rpm band.
You should give that a try. You can get electrical cleaner at
most auto part stores. Just be careful with the MAF wires.
If it was me, I would try it even before the spark plugs.
The problem I was having is the car would pull hard until
about 2500 rpm & them it would lose power. It would lose
power from about 2500 - 3000 rpm. Once it got to 3000 rpm
it would run fine.
With my car it didn't matter if I was part throttle or WOT.
The problem was my K&N air filter. Aftermarket oiled air
filters will get oil on your MAF sensor & throw your readings off.
I used a ton of electric cleaner on my maf sensor & cleaned it
well with Q-tips. It worked like a charm & now my engine pulls
hard right through the rpm band.
You should give that a try. You can get electrical cleaner at
most auto part stores. Just be careful with the MAF wires.
If it was me, I would try it even before the spark plugs.
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I would still try it first. The MAF sensor is a lot
easier to get to than the passenger side spark plugs.
Then again, new spark plugs are always a good idea.
Good luck, Keep us updated & let us know what works.
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Finally got around to diagnosing the problem. Decided to clean the MAF and if that didn't work, then replace the spark plugs. Cleaned the MAF today and the problem is 100% fixed![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
The inlet side of the MAF wires had some slight "soot" residue. I sprayed them down with CRC MAF cleaner and it looks like new now.
Just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same problem.
Thanks.
![Nod](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_nod.gif)
The inlet side of the MAF wires had some slight "soot" residue. I sprayed them down with CRC MAF cleaner and it looks like new now.
Just wanted to post this in case someone else has the same problem.
Thanks.