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Old 12-17-2003, 06:54 PM
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So, you would assume that an aftermarket fuel filter will absolutely flow more fuel than the stock fuel filter?

I'm not debating the quality or consistancy of OEM oil filters, air filters, fuel filters, or any other OEM part. I never mentioned anything about that. All I said is that I wouldn't just assume that an aftermarket fuel filter will flow better than the stock one. For all you or I know, the aftermarket fuel filter in question flows the same or less than the stock filter.

The bottom line is, either the fuel pressure makes it to the fuel rail or it doesn't. In my experience (and the observed experiences of countless other people over the years) the stock filter flows just fine at least for anything under 525 RWHP (heck, maybe it would flow enough for 1000 RWHP, I don't know.)
Old 12-17-2003, 07:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Colonel
So, you would assume that an aftermarket fuel filter will absolutely flow more fuel than the stock fuel filter?

I'm not debating the quality or consistancy of OEM oil filters, air filters, fuel filters, or any other OEM part. I never mentioned anything about that. All I said is that I wouldn't just assume that an aftermarket fuel filter will flow better than the stock one. For all you or I know, the aftermarket fuel filter in question flows the same or less than the stock filter.

The bottom line is, either the fuel pressure makes it to the fuel rail or it doesn't. In my experience (and the observed experiences of countless other people over the years) the stock filter flows just fine at least for anything under 525 RWHP (heck, maybe it would flow enough for 1000 RWHP, I don't know.)
But, you are debating or you'd have no point to make, which isn't what's going on here. There's the element of doubt as to quality. I chose to eliminate that by using a race quality filter. It flows 90gpm. It is much bigger surfce area wise, and it's a depth filtration element instead of surface filtration as the OEM types. So, it would, flow more due to increased surface area. The OEM style stuff is produced in lots, and has a lot number, and quality control is not consistent from one set to the other. That meaning, you could have one that's a choker from one lot, then have another flow where they designed it. Someone would never know because they are sealed. You can't however inspect the OEM types, but you can with the Canton unit. It has a eight micron element. Who knows what the OEM unit may have batch to batch. People may use the OEM stuff, but I chose not to based on my experience also. I'm just eliminating as many variables as possible,and stated that previously. Like I said previously, "the issue is not how much horsepower you can squeeze out of your current application, but consistency and a high level of performance that you know to always be there, unit after unit."

Last edited by sawedoff; 12-18-2003 at 12:30 PM.
Old 12-18-2003, 10:04 AM
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Originally Posted by sawedoff
Yes, you will get what you pay for. That's why I went with a Canton Racing GM EFI fuel filter, part number # 25-909. It has a billet case that can be disassembled when you need to inspect or replace the element. It is designed to work in the stock OEM lines and even uses the clips. It is much bigger and flows up to 90 gpm. I discoverd these because I noticed that the car didn't feel its' usual self when I replaced the fuel filter with a parts store brand. I did a fuel pressure check and was able to deduce that it was the fuel filter. These cheap OEM style filters are "iffy" in the quality department. The majority are made on low bid in a foreign sweatshop. I also wanted something that wouldn't collapse from the moisture that is common in pump gas. The Canton Racing unit is $75 for the entire unit, but from then on out the elements are about $5, and that's all that's replaced. Plus, when I decide to let loose in the mods, I didn't want something that could choke me into the poor house because of fuel starvation.

www.cantonracing.com/fuel.cfm#
Where did you find the replaceable elements for $5? their website shows $11.25

The canton racing EFI fuel filter #25-909 is on my xmas wish list now
Old 12-18-2003, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by Midnight F-117A
Where did you find the replaceable elements for $5? their website shows $11.25

The canton racing EFI fuel filter #25-909 is on my xmas wish list now
Midnight, here's one of the places that I use that carry these. I misquoted the price. It's a few bucks more. The element is the 2 5/8" long or 2.625" long unit with the 8 micron element.

www.racerpartswholesale.com #CA-26602 2 5/8" 8micron element $9.95
www.hrpworld.com
www.pegasusautoracing.com

HRP does carry Canton stuf, and Pegasus has the part but it's higher than your quote from Canton.
Old 12-18-2003, 12:53 PM
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"But, you are debating or you'd have no point to make"

I am? Do tell me what it is that I am debating.

I stated that, "I'm not debating the quality or consistancy of OEM oil filters, air filters, fuel filters, or any other OEM part." And, I am not.

I never said that an aftermarket filter isn't superior in quality, design, or flow capability to an OEM unit. Did I? I never brought up nor commented in the slightest about quality or design. You keep rehashing those points, I keep reading them, and I keep thinking to myself that you are likely correct about these things. ...but it has nothing at all to do with whether or not the afforementioned assumption is a safe one...which is THE ONLY thing that I have commented on.

I never said that using an aftermarket filter was a bad idea. Did I?

I never said that I myself wouldn't use an aftermarket filter. Did I?

I never said that people should only use OEM filters. Did I? Where is the debate?

So, what DID I say? I simply stated (yes, stated, see, you can make a point without debating) that I wouldn't assume than any particular aftermarket filter outflows an OEM unit.

Not assuming would mean that I would have valid information to support the idea. By stateing that we would assume something is to say that we would take it to be truth without actually knowing that it is. Sometimes there are very safe assumptions, sometimes assumptions are not so safe. I think that this assumption is not an extremely safe one to make. Again, that does NOT mean that I think it is not true. In fact, I would agree that an aftermarket filter should, and probably does, outflow an OEM unit. But, I don't assume it to be fact.

I was curious to whether I understood you correctly when I asked, "So, you would assume that an aftermarket fuel filter will absolutely flow more fuel than the stock fuel filter?" Well, I assume that you would!
Old 12-18-2003, 03:53 PM
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[i]Not assuming[/i] would mean that I would have valid information to support the idea. By stateing that we would assume something is to say that we would take it to be truth without actually knowing that it is. Sometimes there are very safe assumptions, sometimes assumptions are not so safe. I think that this assumption is not an extremely safe one to make. Again, that does NOT mean that I think it is not true. In fact, I would agree that an aftermarket filter should, and probably does, outflow an OEM unit. But, I don't assume it to be fact.

I was curious to whether I understood you correctly when I asked, "So, you would assume that an aftermarket fuel filter will absolutely flow more fuel than the stock fuel filter?" Well, I assume that you would! [/QUOTE]



Somebody needs to get a life and not get their butt hurt over somethig like this. This is a bunch of nonsense, and is giving me a migraine. You're being defensive and opinionated as hell. There's some ego here coming from you, and I'm not going over it any more.
Old 12-18-2003, 04:09 PM
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LOL! Whatever dude. You wanted to argue over about quality related issues, which no one even disagree with you about. Don't be so thin skinned fella. I seriouslyt meant no harm.

Defensive? You said I was arguing about something that I never even mentioned. I felt compelled to set the record straight. Maybe you should go back and read this thread again. I think you might have overreacted about some things. But that's just my opinion.

And yes, I am very opinionated, just as you are.
Old 12-18-2003, 04:09 PM
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All this over a fuel filter. If you have no filter element the flow will rock!!!!!
Old 12-18-2003, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxic Texan
If you have no filter element the flow will rock!!!!!

Old 12-18-2003, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by Toxic Texan
All this over a fuel filter. If you have no filter element the flow will rock!!!!!
Then down the road the injectors will drop like a rock...
Old 12-18-2003, 11:43 PM
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Ok, Today I was reading the AAA magazine (dad's AAA membership that is) and they had a article for changes in NYS in things related to automotive and driving.
They stated that enthonal has been added to the fuels in NYS and CT and it will be in full effect on Jan 1st 2004, MTBE is out. Most of the fuel stations already have changed to the new fuels (the price stayed the same, really)
They did state it's a good time to change the fuel filter now if you haven't done it within the past few months before the fuel changes happened.
That being that the enthonal acts like a sovent and any very small rust particles or contamination in the filter which was there before the change, possibly can pass through the system unless a new filter has been installed.

Since ethonal additive will carry water particles (if any in the tank) in it through the entire fuel system to the combustion. Like it suspends water in the fuel.

While MTBE addivite (ban starts jan 1st 2004) won't do that as good since it most likey will reside on the bottom of the fuel tank.

So...Today I was cleaning out the garage (damn bro never puts tools away) I found a BMW fuel filter in the auto maintenance cabient. And you wouldn't believe this size, it's a foot long and the diameter is the same as the LS1 fuel filter!

So the BMW was home today, I decided to put that in and it was easy.
Roll the car into the garage onto rhino ramps
loosen the gas cap
shut down kerosense heater in the garage
remove 4 10mm bolts holding the shield onto the fuel system & remove the shield(location is under the driver's floorboard)
remove 1 10mm clamp bolt holding the filter to the frame
loosen the 2 screw band clamps on each hose end going to the filter, remove the hose, let fuel drain, remove the filter
reverse the whole process.
Total time from putting the car onto the ramps

Then I proceed to drain the old filter (the old one is an original BMW filter "made in germany") and cut each ends open with a pipe cutter.
Then when I took the element out, i can unfold it to the size of a japenense hand fan (don't you try to cool yourself with this, the fumes will make you nausous)
and i inspected it closer, the color was the same on both sides, only a few specks of contimaints i can find in the filter. Holding it up to the light, light shade is seen.
I don't know why it needs to be changed early (the stupid bro works in a auto parts store and sold my dad a Fram fuel filter for $17 at cost price and claims the bmw idling is surging when cold, he doesn't know jack **** about engine running performance in the cold )

you wouldn't believe all the crap he says, i'm sure he's using it as a excuse to get my father to spend $$$, he even brought a bosch O2 sensor and the # of wires don't even match, then this fuel filter and bosch +4 spark plugs and all these kinds of crap!

He even gave me a pair of carbon fiber looking windshield wiper blades assemblies when I was really sick (sinus to sinus and was in bed for 4 days stright while my GF was in maine for vaction with her parents while i went there a week later)
You think i'd put a rice looking product on my Bitchin Camaro? Hell no, the CF wiper blades assembiles are sitting on top of one of the cabient in the garage not noticable unless something falls from the ceiling
BTW i'm still on stock wipers and belt at 76,010 miles

And get this, he drives a 2002 VW GTI 337, figures...

I've been told by my dad to change the fuel filter and he was acting like it was important

And after the inspection, i'm sure the fuel filter could go at least 100k before it needs to be changed.


Then tonite I decided to change my fuel filter.
I had to depressurize the system from the fuel rail and from the gas cap, after I did this and loosened the flare bolt that holds the fuel line to the engine to the filter, there was some redesiual pressure still in there.

I took out the penzoil one (i think, no marking but remember the last time i did it)
and put in a purolator one i had in the maintenance cabient.

Then i took the old fuel filter and cut it apart the same way i did to the BMW filter, holy **** the filter looks really dark, but i wasn't really sure of that since it may be from it being soaked in fuel. So i take the element out of the assembly and unfold it, you can barely see the light shade through it and the color is sure different, light color inside with an dye band for element alignment at the factory making the filters (clean side to engine)
and the outside (dirty side from the tank) was really dark brown/black. I took a paper towel to it and black smear comes off onto the paper towel (did the same thing to the bmw filter and nothing from it)

It really needed to be changed and the filter is like 40k old, the car was in storage for 7 months with this filter too.
Don't give me that every 10-15k change and the purolator price tag which was still on the box was $21.95 (from an local auto parts store before my bro got a job almost 2 years later)

I did one at 30k, when i took apart the stock filter, it was clean as the bmw one.

I went through 3 filters change in the camaro already and the car is at 76,010 right now with a new filter with 0 miles on it as of this post time.

Stock, carquest brand, then penzoil brand then now purolator brand.

The next change will be to the Canton EFI filter with replaceable elements
Pay once for the filter housing assembly and only pay for the replaceable elements after that at aprox $10 per element. Now that's a better idea.

Last edited by Midnight F-117A; 12-19-2003 at 12:05 AM.



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