stall speed selection...help needed
stall speed selection...help needed ok i am looking to finally get a stall in my camaro, here is the mod list.
ls6 intake (no egr) offroad y, slp loudmouth2 cat back, slp lid pack, home ported tb and bellows, subframes.
would a 3600 stall be too much for the mods i have on the car?
how long would it last for me? as in how much power until i need to up the speed of the stall?
and finally what is the favorite brand of the guys on ls1tech?
thanks guys!
ls6 intake (no egr) offroad y, slp loudmouth2 cat back, slp lid pack, home ported tb and bellows, subframes.
would a 3600 stall be too much for the mods i have on the car?
how long would it last for me? as in how much power until i need to up the speed of the stall?
and finally what is the favorite brand of the guys on ls1tech?
thanks guys!
ok i am looking to finally get a stall in my camaro, here is the mod list.
ls6 intake (no egr) offroad y, slp loudmouth2 cat back, slp lid pack, home ported tb and bellows, subframes.
would a 3600 stall be too much for the mods i have on the car?
how long would it last for me? as in how much power until i need to up the speed of the stall?
and finally what is the favorite brand of the guys on ls1tech?
thanks guys!
ls6 intake (no egr) offroad y, slp loudmouth2 cat back, slp lid pack, home ported tb and bellows, subframes.
would a 3600 stall be too much for the mods i have on the car?
how long would it last for me? as in how much power until i need to up the speed of the stall?
and finally what is the favorite brand of the guys on ls1tech?
thanks guys!
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
Likes: 2,557
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
3600 isn't too much for even a stock car. Should be fine for your setup.
Ideal stall speed has NOTHING to do with overall power of your motor. You need to pick a stall based on where your power and torque are (also taking into consideration what's liveable to you for your intended driving purposes, but keep in mind that any lock-up TC will feel exactly like stock once you reach lock-up). Ideally, you want your shift extension (rpm to which your engine drops immediatly after a WOT upshift) to be right at your peak torque rpm. Obviously, keep tires/traction in mind as well.
Ideal stall speed has NOTHING to do with overall power of your motor. You need to pick a stall based on where your power and torque are (also taking into consideration what's liveable to you for your intended driving purposes, but keep in mind that any lock-up TC will feel exactly like stock once you reach lock-up). Ideally, you want your shift extension (rpm to which your engine drops immediatly after a WOT upshift) to be right at your peak torque rpm. Obviously, keep tires/traction in mind as well.
I think a 3600 is about right. It's big enough to where you are pretty open for cam choices down the road. Also, it isn't so big that it isn't like driving a race car everyday. Be sure to throw in an aftermarket transmission cooler along with the converter. We can Precision Industries converters and have had really good luck with them. I would do a lot of research before choosing a brand. The best price doesn't always get you a good converter...
Jon
Jon
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Verdad Gallardo 3600 isn't too much for even a stock car. Should be fine for your setup.
Ideal stall speed has NOTHING to do with overall power of your motor. You need to pick a stall based on where your power and torque are (also taking into consideration what's liveable to you for your intended driving purposes, but keep in mind that any lock-up TC will feel exactly like stock once you reach lock-up). Ideally, you want your shift extension (rpm to which your engine drops immediatly after a WOT upshift) to be right at your peak torque rpm. Obviously, keep tires/traction in mind as well.
Ideal stall speed has NOTHING to do with overall power of your motor. You need to pick a stall based on where your power and torque are (also taking into consideration what's liveable to you for your intended driving purposes, but keep in mind that any lock-up TC will feel exactly like stock once you reach lock-up). Ideally, you want your shift extension (rpm to which your engine drops immediatly after a WOT upshift) to be right at your peak torque rpm. Obviously, keep tires/traction in mind as well.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
Likes: 2,557
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
ok i was feeling confident until i read over your message. i do need a lock up right? this car is a garage queen with some track duty here and there, so the "race car feel" isnt a big deal to me, thats kinda what i like, what would be best for my purose, lock up? im a bit confused right now, i know that a converter will help me, but to be honest, i dont really understand how it works
There is so much to explain about torque converters and how they work, that your best bet is to spend some time researching in the Auto Trans Section.
But, overall I think the 3600 stall would be just fine based on your mods and description of driving style.
3600 is where the converter "engages." Think of it like this, you start off from a stoplight and the car is going to instantly go to ~3600 RPM (probably a little less but it depends on the brand) and stay there. It is going to stay there during shifts. If you stay in the gas enough to keep it in a lower gear once you reach the speed where the engine should be turning 3600rpm(ish) the car is going to "catch up" to the converter and then the RPM needle will climb past 3600 all the way to redline. From a dead stop if you stomp the pedal it will immediately flash to ~3600(again, depends on the brand) and off you go. As far as lock up goes think of it as a tiny clutch setup inside the TC. Once you reach a certain speed (45mph I think?) The clutch disengages and the car will have 1 to 1 just like a 6 speed car. There will be no TC "slip". Once you hit 45mph the rpms will drop from ~3600 down to whatever they would be with a direct drive. It will feel like the car is going from 1st gear to overdrive in 1 shift. It sounds confusing and it is hard to explain but you would understand perfectly after a 30 second ride in a stalled car.
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 24,241
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From: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
3600 is where the converter "engages." Think of it like this, you start off from a stoplight and the car is going to instantly go to ~3600 RPM (probably a little less but it depends on the brand) and stay there. It is going to stay there during shifts. If you stay in the gas enough to keep it in a lower gear once you reach the speed where the engine should be turning 3600rpm(ish) the car is going to "catch up" to the converter and then the RPM needle will climb past 3600 all the way to redline. From a dead stop if you stomp the pedal it will immediately flash to ~3600(again, depends on the brand) and off you go. As far as lock up goes think of it as a tiny clutch setup inside the TC. Once you reach a certain speed (45mph I think?) The clutch disengages and the car will have 1 to 1 just like a 6 speed car. There will be no TC "slip". Once you hit 45mph the rpms will drop from ~3600 down to whatever they would be with a direct drive. It will feel like the car is going from 1st gear to overdrive in 1 shift. It sounds confusing and it is hard to explain but you would understand perfectly after a 30 second ride in a stalled car.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,632
Likes: 2,557
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Even if you have a 3500-4000 stall, if you release your foot from the brake (while in gear) and don't touch the gas, the car will still move forward under idle rpms. You don't have to reach the rated stall speed just to get moving, nor will the motor instantly rev to the rated stall speed if you apply light throttle. You can still accelerate off of a light at rpms well below your stall speed. It's just that the motor will rev much more freely at rpms below the rated stall speed, and with less throttle input than before (hence, it will take somewhat MORE throttle input to accelerate at the same rate as before). This is what most people mean when they refer to how "loose" a converter feels on the street. Larger (numeric) gears will lessen this effect, for example a 3600 stall with a 2.73 gear will feel much "looser" than that same converter with a 3.73 gear.
A 3600 is very streetable, IMO. Even a 4000 is doable on the street, though it might get a bit annoying if you have a loud exhaust and/or small (numeric) gears. Everyone's tolerance level is different, for me a 4000 is about the limit on a mostly street driven LS1.
These stall numbers sound like a lot to the old school guys that are used to working with non-lockup TCs and trans' without OD. With something like the TH350 in my Nova, 2500-3000 is the most I'd ever want on the street. Even 3000 is pushing it a bit IMO.
Im running a vigilante 4000 with bolt ons and 3.23 gears. Its very streetable; 2k rpm for normal acceleration, 3k rpm to steadily pull away from traffic. Once in lock up its just like stock.
I ran a Vigilante on my LT car and a Yank on this car and they both performed AWESOME. The Vig was a tad looser. I have heard great things about Circle D and FTI both sponsors (Yank is too) but cannot speak for them personally.... I can say a budget vertor is just that and it sucks when a cheap vertor craps and takes an otherwise 2K tranny down with it so get a good quality TC up front and you will be miles ahead.
