Oil filter? whats best
#23
Originally Posted by RPM WS6
Great info Patman, Thanks!! I didn't know you could still get the UPFs at all these days. And good idea about looking for the UPF for my bonneville as well, I didn't know they ever made a UPF to fit the 3800 motors.
Patman, one more question, remeber a while back you told me that GM stopped making the PF44 for a updated filter with a new number? Can you get that new updated filter in a UPF series as well, or just the UPF44? And why would they even make the UPF44 but not the PF44 these days?
Patman, one more question, remeber a while back you told me that GM stopped making the PF44 for a updated filter with a new number? Can you get that new updated filter in a UPF series as well, or just the UPF44? And why would they even make the UPF44 but not the PF44 these days?
The new filter to replace the PF44 is the PF46 (I still can't seem to find out the difference though), and the reason they don't make a UPF46 is probably because the standard AC Delco PF filters are not made by the same company which makes the UPF filters. If they were to discontinue the UPF44 and change it to a UPF46, Corvette owners would probably freak out. The same company which makes the UPF filters also makes the Mobil 1, K&N, Bosch Premium, STP and Walmart Supertech (which is a clone to the STP and a great value for a $2 filter!)
#24
Originally Posted by orange01ramair
I run Pure One(for now).
Patman, what do you think of the Amsoil series of filters? I run Amsoil 10W-30 synthetic in all my cars with the Pure One filter. Just wondered.
Patman, what do you think of the Amsoil series of filters? I run Amsoil 10W-30 synthetic in all my cars with the Pure One filter. Just wondered.
The Amsoil oil filters are pretty good actually, they flow pretty well but also trap a decently small sized particle.
#25
not to doubt you or anything but we actually sent both the pure one and k&n off for testing. same size and all and the filtration came back as the exact same. but the k&n flowed just a tad bit better. when i get back to work i'll get the charts and post them. i will make one statement however NEVER RUN A FRAM. I have had 2 customers just in my store that have had the fram come apart and sent pieces of filter into the motor
#31
Originally Posted by Patman
I like the K&N Performance Gold, as it flows much better than other commonly available filters. Flow is much more critical in a hard driven engine than trying to filter out the tiniest particle. The K&Ns are built like tanks too, their shell is so strong you would need to hit a boulder before they would puncture.
Or am I completely off and we're talking about racing engines that are taken down more frequently without re-using the oil?
#32
If you've got a hard driven engine which uses a more restrictive oil filter which traps tiny particles, you'll end up with that filter going into bypass mode a lot, and when the filter kicks in and out of bypass you'll also be interrupting the flow of oil ever so slightly. Every time this happens you'll create a little bit more wear on the bearings. With the LS1 engine, it's clearances are large enough that you can have 10-15 micron particles floating around that will do virtually no harm. So instead of trying to get an oil filter that is stopping those harmless 10 micron particles, you'll see better results if you get an oil filter which is good at trapping 15-20 micron particles and larger, plus flows a lot of oil.
On my last oil analysis I drove my car extremely hard, but yet only saw just over 3ppm of lead in a 3100 mile interval. This is using the K&N oil filter and the German made Castrol Syntec 0w30. That shows that not only is the oil doing it's job very well, but the oil filter is also flowing well enough that all those WOT runs I did were not starving the engine for oil. One way I could tell how the K&N was flowing better for me was that with all other oil filters I would see my oil pressure spike up a lot just before the redline when I went WOT, but with the K&N the pressure stays steady.
On my last oil analysis I drove my car extremely hard, but yet only saw just over 3ppm of lead in a 3100 mile interval. This is using the K&N oil filter and the German made Castrol Syntec 0w30. That shows that not only is the oil doing it's job very well, but the oil filter is also flowing well enough that all those WOT runs I did were not starving the engine for oil. One way I could tell how the K&N was flowing better for me was that with all other oil filters I would see my oil pressure spike up a lot just before the redline when I went WOT, but with the K&N the pressure stays steady.
#37
Originally Posted by Patman
If you've got a hard driven engine which uses a more restrictive oil filter which traps tiny particles, you'll end up with that filter going into bypass mode a lot, and when the filter kicks in and out of bypass you'll also be interrupting the flow of oil ever so slightly. Every time this happens you'll create a little bit more wear on the bearings. With the LS1 engine, it's clearances are large enough that you can have 10-15 micron particles floating around that will do virtually no harm. So instead of trying to get an oil filter that is stopping those harmless 10 micron particles, you'll see better results if you get an oil filter which is good at trapping 15-20 micron particles and larger, plus flows a lot of oil.
On my last oil analysis I drove my car extremely hard, but yet only saw just over 3ppm of lead in a 3100 mile interval. This is using the K&N oil filter and the German made Castrol Syntec 0w30. That shows that not only is the oil doing it's job very well, but the oil filter is also flowing well enough that all those WOT runs I did were not starving the engine for oil. One way I could tell how the K&N was flowing better for me was that with all other oil filters I would see my oil pressure spike up a lot just before the redline when I went WOT, but with the K&N the pressure stays steady.
On my last oil analysis I drove my car extremely hard, but yet only saw just over 3ppm of lead in a 3100 mile interval. This is using the K&N oil filter and the German made Castrol Syntec 0w30. That shows that not only is the oil doing it's job very well, but the oil filter is also flowing well enough that all those WOT runs I did were not starving the engine for oil. One way I could tell how the K&N was flowing better for me was that with all other oil filters I would see my oil pressure spike up a lot just before the redline when I went WOT, but with the K&N the pressure stays steady.
#38
Originally Posted by Mustang5.Ohater
Patman you think I could run that 0w30 down here in Miami?
#39
Originally Posted by rschumacherfan1
Thanks for the helpful explanation. I've never owned a performance car (V8) and am taking delivery of my new GTO hopefully in February. You are in about the same climate as me. Do you have a recommendation of what oil to use and an oil / filter care and upkeep plan? I'm planning on keeping it stock for a while. The car will be my daily driver while there is no salt / snow on the ground, and I'm not worried about small horsepower gains early on. That being said, I'm sure somewhere around the 36k mark (when the warranty is up - maybe before...) I'll be ready to start playing and would like to have a nice clean engine to start with.
Use the K&N oil filter, or the Wix/NAPA Gold/Carquest premium. As far as oil, Redline 5w30, Amsoil 0w30 or 5w30, or German Castrol Syntec 0w30 all work very well.
#40
Originally Posted by z28hokie
K&N- they are the only 10 micron filter on the market.
And if you want to get really ****- get an Amsoil bypass oil filter as well. It filters a small amount of oil at a time- and is 3 micron.
And if you want to get really ****- get an Amsoil bypass oil filter as well. It filters a small amount of oil at a time- and is 3 micron.