700hp Daily Driver?
11-17-2010, 11:12 PM
#41
Did some research. Question is, will a big block fit?. I am assuming you would have to cut the windshield and use a plexiglass one for the carburetor or have a custom intake made. I am sure this subject has beat to hell and back so I'll leave it alone. Bigblock just seems unfeasible to me. **** man, changing the back plugs are already a pain in the ******* ***...I could only imagine a big block and having to pull the motor for a plug change.
Engine #108061A MERLIN BBC 632 / 800HP Street Engine, All Aluminum, Solid roller cam, Dominator carb
$19,006.99
TECHNICAL SPECS
Engine Block: Merlin III cast iron, Merlin X aluminum
Deck Height: 10.200”
Bore/Stroke: 4.600” x 4.750”
Main Caps: 4-bolt nodular splayed
Cylinder Heads: Merlin III 345cc aluminum
Valves: Manley stainless steel
Intake Manifold: Merlin
Carburetor: AED (custom spec)
Distributor: MSD E-Curve
Timing Chain: Double roller
Crankshaft: 4340 Callies/Crower internally balanced
Connecting Rods: 4340 Eagle/Scat
Pistons: Manley/Mahle
Gaskets: Felpro
Internal Hardware: ARP Exterior Hardware: Totally Stainless
Oil Pan: Moroso
Warranty: 2 year/24,000 miles (street only)
Engine #108061A MERLIN BBC 632 / 800HP Street Engine, All Aluminum, Solid roller cam, Dominator carb
$19,006.99
TECHNICAL SPECS
Engine Block: Merlin III cast iron, Merlin X aluminum
Deck Height: 10.200”
Bore/Stroke: 4.600” x 4.750”
Main Caps: 4-bolt nodular splayed
Cylinder Heads: Merlin III 345cc aluminum
Valves: Manley stainless steel
Intake Manifold: Merlin
Carburetor: AED (custom spec)
Distributor: MSD E-Curve
Timing Chain: Double roller
Crankshaft: 4340 Callies/Crower internally balanced
Connecting Rods: 4340 Eagle/Scat
Pistons: Manley/Mahle
Gaskets: Felpro
Internal Hardware: ARP Exterior Hardware: Totally Stainless
Oil Pan: Moroso
Warranty: 2 year/24,000 miles (street only)
11-18-2010, 04:29 AM
#43
750 horsepower with no juice and no power adder yet a weekend street driven cruiser? I dont see how that is even possible unless you are talking about a 700+ cubic inch big block. Even then it would have to be an aggressive engine possible even on race gas because of very high compression. I could see a 420 horsepower N/A cruiser but 750 horsepower???
....mine will be less than 500c.i. under the supervision of a good (great) builder and well thought out combo. Incredible heads, cam designed the for street that makes power up to 6800 and an intake designed around the motor. Trust me, the pieces are available, you just have to do some homework.
11-25-2010, 10:03 AM
#44
To the OP...
What is the fastest car you've driven so far?
You might not want to jump straight into a 700 hp car. If the fastest thing you've been in is a 13 second car, a 400 horsepower 11 second LS1 car is going to feel like a ******* rocket on wheels to you. Then once you get used to that, you can step it up and make more power.
What is the fastest car you've driven so far?
You might not want to jump straight into a 700 hp car. If the fastest thing you've been in is a 13 second car, a 400 horsepower 11 second LS1 car is going to feel like a ******* rocket on wheels to you. Then once you get used to that, you can step it up and make more power.
11-25-2010, 03:53 PM
#48
700 hp can be achieved without an overly complex setup, but it will need to be setup right to get him there. Hell I daily my car at more than 700 hp and it isn't that big of a deal.
If you want to keep mid to upper 20's for highway mpg you don't want a large displacement motor. Take a forged 347 with stock crank, forged rods and good pistons. Hardened pushrods and good valvesprings of course are a must. A set of ported LS6 or 317 heads depending on what you need for compression. Don't go super low compression, stay between 9.5 and 10 to 1, this will keep the off boost performance and give better gas mileage than sub 9:1.
Don't put a huge cam in, look at Comp's LSK or XFI lobes that give higher lift without extremely large duration. Mine is similar, but from Cam Motion and is very easy to drive with. I know a guy with a D1 on a forged 346 with a baby cam, I think is the 216 intake duration that made around 750 hp on his.
Get a decent flowing exhaust on it, 1 7/8" headers, a good Y, bullet in the I pipe, and a stock style replacement will keep the volume down for cruising, but still breath ok at WOT.
Upgrade the fuel system, Lonnie has an excellent twin in tank pump kit for this. Run a -8 line up for a new feed, and use the old stock feed for a return. 60lb siemens injectors and a boost referenced regulator.
Upgrade the rear end for better reliability and slap some sticky tires out back.
Put a D1SC Procharger on it with a 3.7" pulley and get a good tune with the tuner spending a lot of time making sure your tune is good for the off boost driving around part, this is very important for the gas mileage. The centri blowers are simple systems to install and maintain, and when in normal driving you aren't in boost and not spinning fast enough to really eat any hp. I got 25 - 26 mpg on the last 383 with my Procharger so it can be done. I expect once I am finished with my tune it will still be up there.
You will have at least 700hp with that and be able to drive it around comfortably. Yes it will be expensive, probably cost at least 15k if you buy it all as kits, can save some coin doing the work and piecing some things together yourself, but it will get what you asked for. Remember your maintenance schedule though with these kinds of setups. These are never drive it and forget it though, you have to plan a maintenance schedule and keep up on it to make sure things are good.
If you want to keep mid to upper 20's for highway mpg you don't want a large displacement motor. Take a forged 347 with stock crank, forged rods and good pistons. Hardened pushrods and good valvesprings of course are a must. A set of ported LS6 or 317 heads depending on what you need for compression. Don't go super low compression, stay between 9.5 and 10 to 1, this will keep the off boost performance and give better gas mileage than sub 9:1.
Don't put a huge cam in, look at Comp's LSK or XFI lobes that give higher lift without extremely large duration. Mine is similar, but from Cam Motion and is very easy to drive with. I know a guy with a D1 on a forged 346 with a baby cam, I think is the 216 intake duration that made around 750 hp on his.
Get a decent flowing exhaust on it, 1 7/8" headers, a good Y, bullet in the I pipe, and a stock style replacement will keep the volume down for cruising, but still breath ok at WOT.
Upgrade the fuel system, Lonnie has an excellent twin in tank pump kit for this. Run a -8 line up for a new feed, and use the old stock feed for a return. 60lb siemens injectors and a boost referenced regulator.
Upgrade the rear end for better reliability and slap some sticky tires out back.
Put a D1SC Procharger on it with a 3.7" pulley and get a good tune with the tuner spending a lot of time making sure your tune is good for the off boost driving around part, this is very important for the gas mileage. The centri blowers are simple systems to install and maintain, and when in normal driving you aren't in boost and not spinning fast enough to really eat any hp. I got 25 - 26 mpg on the last 383 with my Procharger so it can be done. I expect once I am finished with my tune it will still be up there.
You will have at least 700hp with that and be able to drive it around comfortably. Yes it will be expensive, probably cost at least 15k if you buy it all as kits, can save some coin doing the work and piecing some things together yourself, but it will get what you asked for. Remember your maintenance schedule though with these kinds of setups. These are never drive it and forget it though, you have to plan a maintenance schedule and keep up on it to make sure things are good.
