new guy, upgrading new car with minor problems
10-24-2010, 05:58 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Greenville, AL.
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new guy, upgrading new car with minor problems Well I sold my cobra a while back and have since bought a 1999 camaro z28 with an sts turbo. I bought the car in Vegas and me and the wife drove it (over several days ) back to alabama. Car gave me no problems except having to buy a new battery in Oklahoma City. I knew the elevation change would throw the tune out of whack so I took it to speedsouth in Pelham,AL.
Aside from the sts system with the 60mm turbo, its an A4 with no modifications that I am aware of, the only engine modification that was made to the car was a set of red top injectors ( ford 30lb red top) car ran decent just a little sluggish especially once I got here back in alabama.Originally it had no intercooler and I was told he was running the 5lb spring in the wastegate,the first thing I did was buy an intercooler set up and install it, Next thing I did was get a set of 60lb Siemens Deka injectors. Well once I took it to the dyno shop and left it the fun began. First thing we noticed was we had an oil problem in the intake and exhaust. I did some research here and saw that it was common with the sts system. They took out the resistor, got rid of the t-tap in the harness, we found it was a bad check valve so we replaced it. They had to remove the intercooler and piping to clean the oil out of it. We thought the oil could have been causing the knock at 4500 rpms.Turns out one of the knock sensors was cracked so we replaced both of them. The next run on the dyno we got to 5200 or 5400 rpms and the boost went from 7 psi to almost 8 psi and the power fell off. The next thing we did was remove the cats and ran it again and now at 5400 rpms the same thing, boost climbs and power falls off. They come to the conclusion that is a valve spring. At this point I went and picked up the car and brought it home. The car made 410rwhp 434 rwtq on a conservative mustang dyno. Although its a ton of fun to drive because the feel when the boost builds and the sound of that turbo is awsome. I've had N/A cars and nitrous cars, this is my first turbo car and first LS engine car so I am new to all this and trying to learn as much as I can. I asked a buddy at a local shop in town and he said that it sounds like I am floating a valve and that I need to upgrade the springs. He also warns that I should upgrade the valves since I would run the risk on snapping the head off a valve with better springs and really tearing something up. I checked around and valves and springs would be around $500 and thats not installing them. After looking around here and reading I'm thinking it may be better suited to just do a head and cam swap. I'm trying to learn the difference in all the casting numbers between 853's, 241's, 243's which from what I read are better than the rest? I thought I also read that on some of the 243's they required different length pushrods? Well I'm hopefully going to be picking up my 4.6 engine and built heads from the machine shop in the next week and hope to sell them to have some money. I'm planning on doing an ls6 intake while I am at it.Has anyone else ran into this problem and does it sound like I'm floating a valve? What are my options as far as head and cam packages and what kind of numbers can I expect to see on the same dyno with certain heads and cam and ls6 intake? I think the problems I have run into have been minor problems for a car that I drove almost 2k miles home and only replaced a battery right?Sorry this is a long post. I've been reading as much as I can trying to answer my own question, but I have come to the conclusion that its easier to ask at this point. Thanks again.
Aside from the sts system with the 60mm turbo, its an A4 with no modifications that I am aware of, the only engine modification that was made to the car was a set of red top injectors ( ford 30lb red top) car ran decent just a little sluggish especially once I got here back in alabama.Originally it had no intercooler and I was told he was running the 5lb spring in the wastegate,the first thing I did was buy an intercooler set up and install it, Next thing I did was get a set of 60lb Siemens Deka injectors. Well once I took it to the dyno shop and left it the fun began. First thing we noticed was we had an oil problem in the intake and exhaust. I did some research here and saw that it was common with the sts system. They took out the resistor, got rid of the t-tap in the harness, we found it was a bad check valve so we replaced it. They had to remove the intercooler and piping to clean the oil out of it. We thought the oil could have been causing the knock at 4500 rpms.Turns out one of the knock sensors was cracked so we replaced both of them. The next run on the dyno we got to 5200 or 5400 rpms and the boost went from 7 psi to almost 8 psi and the power fell off. The next thing we did was remove the cats and ran it again and now at 5400 rpms the same thing, boost climbs and power falls off. They come to the conclusion that is a valve spring. At this point I went and picked up the car and brought it home. The car made 410rwhp 434 rwtq on a conservative mustang dyno. Although its a ton of fun to drive because the feel when the boost builds and the sound of that turbo is awsome. I've had N/A cars and nitrous cars, this is my first turbo car and first LS engine car so I am new to all this and trying to learn as much as I can. I asked a buddy at a local shop in town and he said that it sounds like I am floating a valve and that I need to upgrade the springs. He also warns that I should upgrade the valves since I would run the risk on snapping the head off a valve with better springs and really tearing something up. I checked around and valves and springs would be around $500 and thats not installing them. After looking around here and reading I'm thinking it may be better suited to just do a head and cam swap. I'm trying to learn the difference in all the casting numbers between 853's, 241's, 243's which from what I read are better than the rest? I thought I also read that on some of the 243's they required different length pushrods? Well I'm hopefully going to be picking up my 4.6 engine and built heads from the machine shop in the next week and hope to sell them to have some money. I'm planning on doing an ls6 intake while I am at it.Has anyone else ran into this problem and does it sound like I'm floating a valve? What are my options as far as head and cam packages and what kind of numbers can I expect to see on the same dyno with certain heads and cam and ls6 intake? I think the problems I have run into have been minor problems for a car that I drove almost 2k miles home and only replaced a battery right?Sorry this is a long post. I've been reading as much as I can trying to answer my own question, but I have come to the conclusion that its easier to ask at this point. Thanks again.
