How hard is it to change the plugs in our beautiful LS1 motors?

 

you have to remove the air tubes to gain easy access. The driver side is relatively easy. The pass side near the rear is very tricky. I use one of the little round ratchet jobs. It's just a little round ratchet that you use your hand to turn. You also have to be a little limber and little hands help. It's not really all that bad. Iv'e got it down to right at thirty to forty five minutes. I also use a little antisieze on the threads. Anytime you thread steal into aluminum is allways good to use some. It keeps from gauling the threads in the alluminum and makes it easier to get them out the next time.

 

The first time you do it, it is pretty tough. It isn't too hard though. Be sure to let the motor cool down so you just don't burn the hell out of yourself haha. A joint on the ratchet and an extension makes the job easier as well.

 

Everying above.... Just dont get frustrated, take your sweet time and you will enjoy it and then feel good about it...

 

You can do the majority of work with a 3/8" and 1/4" socket set. Mostly will due 10mm and either shallow or deep. Flat head screw driver and a pry bar. IMO this is a good time to do headers IF you were thinking about it. Not much more work. Also a spark plug socket and various wrenches, maybe a universal as certain plugs will need them.

You do need to remove/disconnect the AIR fittings and the coil packs. This should give you all the room you need.

The plug wires may be stuck on the plugs, this may take some time to remove. Re using the metal boot covers is up to you. I never reused them.

IMO you will be fine with a set of NGK TR-55's and LS6 Plug Wires.

1) Open hood, locate the main coil pack plug connectors, in the middle of the pack and inbetween the pack and fuel rail, cannot miss, disconnect.

2) Pop off all the plug wires from the packs and let hang.

3) AIR fittings, a 3/8" drive, 10 mm socket and extention is all that should be needed, use some PB Blaster a day ahead of time to help loosen the bolts.

4) Start un bolting the coil packs, there is a bolt in the back on the driver side, has a nut and a metal bracket sandwiched under the studded nut. So remove one, and the pry bar used to bend it up and then remove the studded nut. DO NOT put back. IMO you can use 1 or 2 bolts to hold these on, in this case use 3-4 and have them towards the front for easy access.

5) Plug wires- these can be easy or a bitch, depending on the car. ALL GM cars have this issue, if its stuck. TRY NOT to pull on the wire. Sometimes you need to push in the metal sleeve and twist. The biggest thing is to break the boot loose from the plug. Expect to break some wires.

6) Using various sockets and universals and remove plugs, make sure new ones gapped correctly to stock. Some anti seaze on the threads. Hand thread them in and toss on the wires on the plugs for all plugs exept the back 2 on each side #7 and #8.

7) Special Tip: Connect the last plug wire at the back of the motor, angle the coil pack in the back and get the wire connected, then bolt it to the valve cover, this is due to space issues and its very helpful.

8) button up the motor and start her up, look for any SES lights or anything flashing.

 

Don't let these guys lie to you, it's a PITA! It's still better than paying a shop $100+ to do it though.

 

damn, why isn't anything easy

 

The only issue I ever ran into with ANY GM cars is the wires stuck on plugs, thats bout it.

IMO do not be afraid of the car, if you are, your never going to learn ANYTHING.

 

I put a little dielectric grease on the plugs to help with this for next time...

 

IMO the only hard one is the rear ps. The rest can be got to from the top but yes an !air mod helps and I'm thinking of doing one soon..

 

I took the air off when i did headers

 

Oh, having headers and no AIR does help. You just need to move the coil packs out of the way on the passenger side and most leave that back bolt off for next time.