I wish I had $3000 to spend on mods

 

headers, full exhaust, TB, stall, save some money for when u kill that trans or rear end. i dont recommend the nos unless thats what you really want to do

 

From a racing perspective there's no use in adding power if you can't plant it anywhere.

Drag Racers always start from the rear and work forward. This is what I will be doing with my future 98-02 formula firebird (LS1) and in this order

1. For the 10 bolt add a better gearto make your car quicker instantly out of the hole.

2. Add a (TA Performance) diff cover that has load bearing supports. Cheap rear cover upgrade ($160) Rear gears and caps break due to flexing of the carrier caps.

3. LCA's to keep things planted with good tires

4. Do the lid upgrade

5. Exhaust upgrade

6. Converter & Cooler

7. Shocks & Springs for fine tuning

The LS1 has plenty there already, so no real need to touch the motor at all.


This is just my opinior

 

I too would start by adding a beefed up rear first, then suspension/chassis work, then the power mods.

-Rob

 

lid, ls6 intake, full exhaust, stall, shift kit, and cooler.

 

You already have the LS6 intake, so that is a great start. If it were me I would do in this order:

Lid
Ported\Polished Throttle Body
Longtube Headers
Matching Y-Pipe, (Cat or ORY depending on you preference)
Catback Exhaust
Basic Tune

After that, look towards suspension and appearance mods. The car is already great looking as is.

 

Just start small and do one thing at a time. Lid, headers, exhaust first then think of what else you want. I also thought it would be cool to do a stock appearing build with the Thunder Racing Cheatr build with AFR heads and their cam and keep the the car looking stock but not.

 

I'd go with a lid, stall, LTs with full exhaust. Then I'd wrap it up with some wheels and lowering springs. The car will be quicker and look good. No point of dumping everything into performance at this point when the stock F-bodies sit like monster trucks from the factory.

 

congrats on your new ride

SLP or FTP lid and filter

Kooks or ARH 1 7/8 long tubes , y-pipe & cutout

BMR or UMI subframes and lower control arms

Yank SS3600 and cooler

Mickey Thompson or Nitto NT05R drag radials

Basic Tune ( no dyno )

lowering springs , adj. panhard bar if there is money left


This would be a nice all around package with good street manners and big performance gains.

The 3600 stall will still give you the option to run a fairly good size cam if you chose later down the road. There is the SS4000 stall which is a very popular stall and though it's fully streetable it is on the loose side for a car this is driven more often.

good luck and feel free to contact me for any further info

 

One quick question and I'm not trying to steal this thread, but is there a reason that those with LT and LS cars are not using Coan, Hughes or ATI converters in their cars? Is it price or another reason?


I have never seen a Yanks converter on a strip car or stock eliminator vehicle.



Just curious

 

I would leave the car stock and not jack up a nice car. A nice set of wheels and tires will come close to 3 grand and make the car stand out as is. Detail it and maybe add some intierior upgrades and you'll be set. Finding un modded F bodies is hard to do.

 

injectors, and fuel pump when you get it tuned with the other stuff tune it for e-85. do the research to find out excactly what to use but that sounds like something i might look into next summer. there is a write up on this forum somewhere. its called something like "how to run your ls1 on e85"

 

x2

 

The closer to stock and if it is in awesome shape with low miles will be worth more down the line than a modded car. I really wish I would have gone stealth with all my mods and kept it stock in appearance. That's why I mentioned the Cheatr package from Thunder. I really want to get a c5 vette next and if I can't get a decent unmodified z06 I am going to get a regular c5 and just do the cheatr so that it stays looking stock but is a bit more. I think there is nothing cooler than a 400whp stock appearing car that is capable of 11's.

 

depends on what you plan on doing with the car for future mods and if you plan on racing..

If you plan to build big, and race alot..

12 bolt or 9 inch rearend with gear of choice...

its easy to get caught up in the HP hype, however if your building to have a fun weekend racer and toy, you always build from the ground up, starting in back..

secondly if you go cam and stall, make sure the cam and torque converter are matched to eachother. so many mess this up..

if your going for a fun cruising car, street only, not huge hp..

-SFC weld in not bolt in
-lca
-LID
-LTs and ORY,
-SLP LM2 muffler (i like them cause they are lightweight and it sounds great with my large cam)
-dont buy a TB, port your own its easy
-Nitto DR, last longest on the street out of all the DRs
-stall
-shift kit
-shocks and springs
-torque arm

(with this list, your car will feel completely different, plus these are great supporting mods for future ones like heads/cam)

-dont waste money on gears for the stock 10 bolt. its a junk rearend.

-save the cam, for when you do heads. Cam and heads go great together and you save money tuning both together, rather than tuning twice.

 

thanks alot for all the advise guys i really appreciate it but sadly i had to use that 3 grand for something more important. i did buy a slp lid but i think thats all im going to do for now seening as my car still has low miles on it and would be worth more money if i leave it close to stock as possable because if i can sell it for a good enough price ill just go ahead and buy my dream car a corvette babyyy.. c5 or c6 it dont matter i love em both maybe a c5 zo6 i hope