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K&N air filter really that good?
#21
TECH Fanatic
Seems as if the K&N's would serve fine for a normal air filter, but I wouldn't drop the extra money on one expecting the power gains that they claim you will get out of it.
#22
Think about it like this:
Paper filter $11
K&N w/ recharge kit ~72
so if you have the car long enough to change/clean the filter 6 to 7 times its the same, more then 7 times then the K&N is cheaper, less then 6 the paper ones come out cheaper.
#23
12 Second Club
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#24
Staging Lane
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: Perkins, OK
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X2, IF you buy one buy it because it is reusable not because it will make power.
Think about it like this:
Paper filter $11
K&N w/ recharge kit ~72
so if you have the car long enough to change/clean the filter 6 to 7 times its the same, more then 7 times then the K&N is cheaper, less then 6 the paper ones come out cheaper.
Think about it like this:
Paper filter $11
K&N w/ recharge kit ~72
so if you have the car long enough to change/clean the filter 6 to 7 times its the same, more then 7 times then the K&N is cheaper, less then 6 the paper ones come out cheaper.
#25
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego California
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I've always used K&N in my cars, and they do allow better airflow but some may question at what cost? (debris wise) but I did a test with my shop vac; put a fram cone on the hose, then tried a K&N cone, and the vacuum worked a lot harder with that fram filter. So returned both and invested my money in a K&N for my SS '01. As far as MAF responses to the K&N oil, if it starts acting up, just grab some $3 carb/throt cleaner and spray it off
#26
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: San Diego California
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If you your running stock or basic bolt on's, a better air filter will reduce engine suffocation when doing WOTs. It may not increase HP, but you'll definitely notice the pickup when your beast needs a deep breath!
#27
I run a k&n cold air filter in my z28 and with the ss ram air hood it just seems to me that i would be getting a lot more air into my engine than you would get with an aftermarket lid and flat filter set up. then again though ive never had a lid of any kind so i wouldnt know for sure.
#30
I've always used K&N in my cars, and they do allow better airflow but some may question at what cost? (debris wise) but I did a test with my shop vac; put a fram cone on the hose, then tried a K&N cone, and the vacuum worked a lot harder with that fram filter. So returned both and invested my money in a K&N for my SS '01. As far as MAF responses to the K&N oil, if it starts acting up, just grab some $3 carb/throt cleaner and spray it off
#32
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
I run a k&n cold air filter in my z28 and with the ss ram air hood it just seems to me that i would be getting a lot more air into my engine than you would get with an aftermarket lid and flat filter set up. then again though ive never had a lid of any kind so i wouldnt know for sure.
#35
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
Anybody here old enough to remember going to the parts store when they still had the props and stuff? Think back to the oil comparrisons in the plexiglass box with the plastic gears in it with the crank.... it was a viscosity difference test showing how oil stuck to the gear as it traveled and didn't get slung off....
Now remember the K&N tester? It had a single air pump, 2 seperate compartments with 2 ping pong *****, and one had a paper filter, and one had a K&N. When you hit the botton to turn on the air pump the ball in the tube with the K&N skyrocketed to the top and stayed there.....
Anyone remember this?
Anyways, long story short, I've run K&N in everything from my 65 Chevelle, 01 SS, to my wife's Escalade. I've also seen 130k - 200k mile LS1's torn down to go forged that had run K&N's since the show room floor. Still had great compression, great leak down, and cross hatches in the cylinders.
This alone negates the whole arguement about dirt getting in the motor.
OP, run whatever you want. You'll hear love and hate for the K&N. If it didn't give HP like they claim, they would have been sued for false advertisement YEARS ago. Just don't slother it in oil and you'll be good. Like others have said, LET IT DRY BEFORE AND AFTER you oil it.
Now remember the K&N tester? It had a single air pump, 2 seperate compartments with 2 ping pong *****, and one had a paper filter, and one had a K&N. When you hit the botton to turn on the air pump the ball in the tube with the K&N skyrocketed to the top and stayed there.....
Anyone remember this?
Anyways, long story short, I've run K&N in everything from my 65 Chevelle, 01 SS, to my wife's Escalade. I've also seen 130k - 200k mile LS1's torn down to go forged that had run K&N's since the show room floor. Still had great compression, great leak down, and cross hatches in the cylinders.
This alone negates the whole arguement about dirt getting in the motor.
OP, run whatever you want. You'll hear love and hate for the K&N. If it didn't give HP like they claim, they would have been sued for false advertisement YEARS ago. Just don't slother it in oil and you'll be good. Like others have said, LET IT DRY BEFORE AND AFTER you oil it.
The following users liked this post:
Blac94z28 (06-14-2024)
#37
Anybody here old enough to remember going to the parts store when they still had the props and stuff? Think back to the oil comparrisons in the plexiglass box with the plastic gears in it with the crank.... it was a viscosity difference test showing how oil stuck to the gear as it traveled and didn't get slung off....
Now remember the K&N tester? It had a single air pump, 2 seperate compartments with 2 ping pong *****, and one had a paper filter, and one had a K&N. When you hit the botton to turn on the air pump the ball in the tube with the K&N skyrocketed to the top and stayed there.....
Anyone remember this?
Anyways, long story short, I've run K&N in everything from my 65 Chevelle, 01 SS, to my wife's Escalade. I've also seen 130k - 200k mile LS1's torn down to go forged that had run K&N's since the show room floor. Still had great compression, great leak down, and cross hatches in the cylinders.
This alone negates the whole arguement about dirt getting in the motor.
OP, run whatever you want. You'll hear love and hate for the K&N. If it didn't give HP like they claim, they would have been sued for false advertisement YEARS ago. Just don't slother it in oil and you'll be good. Like others have said, LET IT DRY BEFORE AND AFTER you oil it.
Now remember the K&N tester? It had a single air pump, 2 seperate compartments with 2 ping pong *****, and one had a paper filter, and one had a K&N. When you hit the botton to turn on the air pump the ball in the tube with the K&N skyrocketed to the top and stayed there.....
Anyone remember this?
Anyways, long story short, I've run K&N in everything from my 65 Chevelle, 01 SS, to my wife's Escalade. I've also seen 130k - 200k mile LS1's torn down to go forged that had run K&N's since the show room floor. Still had great compression, great leak down, and cross hatches in the cylinders.
This alone negates the whole arguement about dirt getting in the motor.
OP, run whatever you want. You'll hear love and hate for the K&N. If it didn't give HP like they claim, they would have been sued for false advertisement YEARS ago. Just don't slother it in oil and you'll be good. Like others have said, LET IT DRY BEFORE AND AFTER you oil it.
#38
The Scammer Hammer
iTrader: (49)
Then don't run one. Easy as that.
I beg to differ on the exhaust though. So I guess there's no difference in 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" primaries?
I've SAVED money by buying one simply b/c I don't have to waste money on paper. I don't see how the #'s would be purposefully skewed. Plenty of independent graphs out there from people other than LS1's prove otherwise.
I really see no reason NOT to use one.
Let's agree to disagree.
** On a side note though, if AEM would ever get off their lazy *** and make a dry flow drop-in panel filter, I'd be the first in line.
I beg to differ on the exhaust though. So I guess there's no difference in 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" primaries?
I've SAVED money by buying one simply b/c I don't have to waste money on paper. I don't see how the #'s would be purposefully skewed. Plenty of independent graphs out there from people other than LS1's prove otherwise.
I really see no reason NOT to use one.
Let's agree to disagree.
** On a side note though, if AEM would ever get off their lazy *** and make a dry flow drop-in panel filter, I'd be the first in line.
#40
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (5)
Bull. ****. If a filter flows more are, physics dictates that it must have a more open cell structure. K&N isn't breaking physics; if their filters allow more air to flow in, then more dirt also gets in. Just because you've personally seen a few examples of clean engines with K&N filters doesn't mean anything; I doubt any of those LS1 cars saw anything but street duty. Ask anyone who offroads regularly; K&Ns are great for allowing a whole lot of dust into the intake.