TransAmWS.6

Seems as if the K&N's would serve fine for a normal air filter, but I wouldn't drop the extra money on one expecting the power gains that they claim you will get out of it.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

X2, IF you buy one buy it because it is reusable not because it will make power.

Think about it like this:
Paper filter $11
K&N w/ recharge kit ~72

so if you have the car long enough to change/clean the filter 6 to 7 times its the same, more then 7 times then the K&N is cheaper, less then 6 the paper ones come out cheaper.

N/A_gets_you_laid

How long have you had your clear lid? Does it turn yellow over time? I love that look though, which is why I ask.

Russell PTA

only problem is the recharge kit may not last 6-7 changes.

Pabbi's SS01

I've always used K&N in my cars, and they do allow better airflow but some may question at what cost? (debris wise) but I did a test with my shop vac; put a fram cone on the hose, then tried a K&N cone, and the vacuum worked a lot harder with that fram filter. So returned both and invested my money in a K&N for my SS '01. As far as MAF responses to the K&N oil, if it starts acting up, just grab some $3 carb/throt cleaner and spray it off

Pabbi's SS01

If you your running stock or basic bolt on's, a better air filter will reduce engine suffocation when doing WOTs. It may not increase HP, but you'll definitely notice the pickup when your beast needs a deep breath!

elliotz28

I run a k&n cold air filter in my z28 and with the ss ram air hood it just seems to me that i would be getting a lot more air into my engine than you would get with an aftermarket lid and flat filter set up. then again though ive never had a lid of any kind so i wouldnt know for sure.

Kev SS

iTrader: (5)

It's not worth it, unless you have a clear lid or just want your air filter to look nice then what's the point?

BLK95-Z

iTrader: (2)

My car came with a clear lid and K&N so Ive been rocking it.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

The only problem with that is that the engine is limited to how much air it can take in without F/I. So just because it flows a little better does not mean the paper filter is restrictive (in terms of producing more HP).

crzygoat

Agreed

Element

iTrader: (5)

Except people have shown - with dyno numbers - about a 1hp difference with any sort of filter, and no filter at all. A stock-size paper filter isn't restrictive at all on a stock or even bolt-ons engine.

99FormulaM6r

iTrader: (2)

Ding ding ding! Just because a filter flows better, it doesn't mean that the engine needs the extra air flow....

elliotz28

I've haven't used a paper filter with my ls1 so the k&n is all I know. I believe all of your advise though

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Anybody here old enough to remember going to the parts store when they still had the props and stuff? Think back to the oil comparrisons in the plexiglass box with the plastic gears in it with the crank.... it was a viscosity difference test showing how oil stuck to the gear as it traveled and didn't get slung off....

Now remember the K&N tester? It had a single air pump, 2 seperate compartments with 2 ping pong *****, and one had a paper filter, and one had a K&N. When you hit the botton to turn on the air pump the ball in the tube with the K&N skyrocketed to the top and stayed there.....

Anyone remember this?

Anyways, long story short, I've run K&N in everything from my 65 Chevelle, 01 SS, to my wife's Escalade. I've also seen 130k - 200k mile LS1's torn down to go forged that had run K&N's since the show room floor. Still had great compression, great leak down, and cross hatches in the cylinders.

This alone negates the whole arguement about dirt getting in the motor.

OP, run whatever you want. You'll hear love and hate for the K&N. If it didn't give HP like they claim, they would have been sued for false advertisement YEARS ago. Just don't slother it in oil and you'll be good. Like others have said, LET IT DRY BEFORE AND AFTER you oil it.

BoricuaHec01

Stop being a cheapskate and get a damn K&N lol, they last forever pretty much compared to the paper ones that you need to replace every few months.

Starz T/A 17

iTrader: (6)

Dyno results are easy to manipulate and as already mentioned just because it flows better does not mean it adds HP. A stock car can only take in so much air. For example I can put 5 inch exhaust on my car and it will flow better then a 3 inch setup. But just because it flows better does not mean its going to add power.

dr_whigham

iTrader: (49)

Then don't run one. Easy as that.

I beg to differ on the exhaust though. So I guess there's no difference in 1 3/4" and 1 7/8" primaries?

I've SAVED money by buying one simply b/c I don't have to waste money on paper. I don't see how the #'s would be purposefully skewed. Plenty of independent graphs out there from people other than LS1's prove otherwise.

I really see no reason NOT to use one.

Let's agree to disagree.

** On a side note though, if AEM would ever get off their lazy *** and make a dry flow drop-in panel filter, I'd be the first in line.

senicalj4579

iTrader: (41)

I had one for my 98z. Same as a k an n. I have k an n on my 01ss right now. I just cleaned it last year no probs

Element

iTrader: (5)

Bull. ****. If a filter flows more are, physics dictates that it must have a more open cell structure. K&N isn't breaking physics; if their filters allow more air to flow in, then more dirt also gets in. Just because you've personally seen a few examples of clean engines with K&N filters doesn't mean anything; I doubt any of those LS1 cars saw anything but street duty. Ask anyone who offroads regularly; K&Ns are great for allowing a whole lot of dust into the intake.