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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 04:45 PM
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Default Stroke VS Blown

I've got a '01 Z28 with a LS1 that has everything you can do to it and I want to get more out of it and am looking for some opinions on stroking or supercharging . I do not what to go NOS.
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Old Aug 12, 2011 | 06:27 PM
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you probably wont get much more hp if you stroke it, but you'll get a bit more tq.

honestly, in your situation (assuming you already have FAST intake manifold, cam, tune, aftermarket high-flow heads, long tube headers, fuel management) I would do the supercharger. you'll spend more $$ over the stroker option, but open up significantly more hp on your LS1 engine.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 03:15 AM
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Originally Posted by RezinTexas
you probably wont get much more hp if you stroke it, but you'll get a bit more tq.

honestly, in your situation (assuming you already have FAST intake manifold, cam, tune, aftermarket high-flow heads, long tube headers, fuel management) I would do the supercharger. you'll spend more $$ over the stroker option, but open up significantly more hp on your LS1 engine.
Thanks Rezin that was the input I was looking for and yes I did everything from cam to injectors. If stroking cost more then it sounds like supercharging is the best bang for the buck.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 04:41 AM
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actually I think the supercharger option would cost more, depending on how much work you do yourself.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 07:44 AM
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Rt 66 what are all of your mods? If you plan on forging the bottom end it will cost you at least 6-10k. Do you have a 12 bolt rear end? FI is not cheap.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 08:26 AM
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What's your HP goal ? What cam are you running ? Whats your compression ratio ? What size injectors are you running ?

The reason for all these question is... If you decide to go FI a forged bottom end is a good idea. Your cam you have now might not be FI friendly. Your compression ratio might be too high, depending on your heads. Also what valve springs do you have in your heads. Last, your injectors for N/A are probably too small for FI.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 10:58 AM
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Originally Posted by conan
What's your HP goal ? What cam are you running ? Whats your compression ratio ? What size injectors are you running ?

The reason for all these question is... If you decide to go FI a forged bottom end is a good idea. Your cam you have now might not be FI friendly. Your compression ratio might be too high, depending on your heads. Also what valve springs do you have in your heads. Last, your injectors for N/A are probably too small for FI.
The cam is a 223/227 with .610/.613 LSA 112, the injectors are 40lb. with a fast 92mm intake and TB, the heads are stock 243 with double springs, the lifters are LS7, underdrive pulley, long tube headers with free flow cats, 3" cat back and CAI. Tuned on a Mustang dyno making 400 rwh. and am looking to make another 75 rwh. The rear is stock. Hope this helps.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 11:24 AM
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Stroke vote here. FI should require a lower end reinforcement strategy in a proper set-up. Why spend twice when at the power level you're looking for can get you there with a conservative 402-416 ci build.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 11:29 AM
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You could probably get close to adding an additional 75 hp by getting some good heads (AFR, TFS, etc.) and putting in a bigger cam. But, if you're like most, it's never going to be enough, so going with a Procharger setup gets my vote.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 11:34 AM
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Originally Posted by LPE 403
Stroke vote here. FI should require a lower end reinforcement strategy in a proper set-up. Why spend twice when at the power level you're looking for can get you there with a conservative 402-416 ci build.
If I go with anything over 383 won't I need a different block ather than stock?
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 12:10 PM
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Originally Posted by RT.66
If I go with anything over 383 won't I need a different block ather than stock?
If your going to stroke it, I'd for sure go bigger than a 383. Yes, you will need a different block if you go over a 383.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 12:32 PM
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If you are looking for only 75 more hp, heads and bigger cam.

If you want the wow factor ATI Procharger for the win!
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 12:35 PM
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Originally Posted by LPE 403
Stroke vote here. FI should require a lower end reinforcement strategy in a proper set-up. Why spend twice when at the power level you're looking for can get you there with a conservative 402-416 ci build.
^ this, plus an p1 or bigger procharger.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 01:36 PM
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Originally Posted by silver2010
^ this, plus an p1 or bigger procharger.
that's what I love about our cars, so many endless choices!!
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 01:42 PM
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Originally Posted by JC70SS
Rt 66 what are all of your mods? If you plan on forging the bottom end it will cost you at least 6-10k. Do you have a 12 bolt rear end? FI is not cheap.
How do you figure? You can get a very nice longblock for that price. If re-using your block you can get away with spending a little under 4K depending on the shop. Hell, you can get a forged 383 shortblock from texas-speed for 4K.
You will probably end up spending more money of a very nice stroker than keeping with what you have plus the supercharger if your looking around 500RWHP.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by RaVagE
How do you figure? You can get a very nice longblock for that price. If re-using your block you can get away with spending a little under 4K depending on the shop. Hell, you can get a forged 383 shortblock from texas-speed for 4K.
You will probably end up spending more money of a very nice stroker than keeping with what you have plus the supercharger if your looking around 500RWHP.
So RaVage your saying just use what I have and just add a supercharger?
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 04:29 PM
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You could definetely do that. Adding a P1SC at only 5# would get you where you want.
If it was me, look at future of the car with growth in mind, and tone down the set-up for your current goals. Meaning go with a D1SC headunit running at 5# over a P1SC because the P1SC will max out sooner than the D1SC even though it meets your current goals. That way you dont have to swap out headunits later on down the road.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 04:48 PM
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Originally Posted by RT.66
The cam is a 223/227 with .610/.613 LSA 112, the injectors are 40lb. with a fast 92mm intake and TB, the heads are stock 243 with double springs, the lifters are LS7, underdrive pulley, long tube headers with free flow cats, 3" cat back and CAI. Tuned on a Mustang dyno making 400 rwh. and am looking to make another 75 rwh. The rear is stock. Hope this helps.
My $.02 would be to get a LQ9 or a ls2 (Iron vs Aluminum) your choice $$$. 4 inch stroke 402-408 ci short block with forged internals. You can use your heads for a N/A app and if you decide down the road you want to go FI you have the bottom end built for it. All you would have to do is add a big combustion chamber head to it for a compression drop.

As far as boosting what you have. Your cam is not going to be the best choice, your injectors will max out quick with boost, you'll have to be carefull with the stock bottomend. For the price to go FI and change some of your components you already have, you could build your self a bad *** moter that would do 500 rwhp and the torque to match cheaper than a blower kit alone.
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 05:28 PM
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Originally Posted by RaVagE
How do you figure? You can get a very nice longblock for that price. If re-using your block you can get away with spending a little under 4K depending on the shop. Hell, you can get a forged 383 shortblock from texas-speed for 4K.
You will probably end up spending more money of a very nice stroker than keeping with what you have plus the supercharger if your looking around 500RWHP.
Shortblock= $3500-$4000 depending
Procharger kit= min $3500 for a used P1 kit up to $5000 for a new D1
12 bolt=$2500
Clutch?
60# injectors=$350
fuel system?
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Old Aug 13, 2011 | 06:34 PM
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Originally Posted by JC70SS
Shortblock= $3500-$4000 depending
Procharger kit= min $3500 for a used P1 kit up to $5000 for a new D1
12 bolt=$2500
Clutch?
60# injectors=$350
fuel system?
I got out the calculator and did basically the same thing. Everybody has given me excellent advice but let me throw out one more thing. When I add up the cost of either FI or stoke I can get a LS2 stroker crate motor.
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