how to get a TA around 450rwhp?
#21
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (6)
1998 Bright Red Camaro SS #731 a4 hardtop/cloth int | G2 Performance lid | Performance Granatelli MAF Sensor | Kooks Coated LT's| ORY | Ferno Bellow | Cut-Out | NGK TR-55IX | Magnaflow Cat Back Exhaust w/ Missile Silo Tips | 3.73 Gears | 3600 Stall | Moroso Battery Relocation Kit | Ricky Fast Tuned | 315/35/17 NITTO 555r Drag Radials | Minor Weight Reduction
You said you were having a hard time surpassing 450Rwhp...? I don't see a cam and/or heads in here.
One thing to make life easier.. Switch to a nice merge... While you are at it I would switch to 1 7/8" headers.
You said you were having a hard time surpassing 450Rwhp...? I don't see a cam and/or heads in here.
One thing to make life easier.. Switch to a nice merge... While you are at it I would switch to 1 7/8" headers.
I believe mine are 1 7/8 headers, if they aren't I hear it does make a difference.
A merge is definitely in the works, but I'm highly considering a custom x w/ b4 axle dumps idk yet
my guess is its not tuned properly, or not tuned at all
#22
was looking to see what mods if would take to get around to 450 rwhp?
I know I will be getting headers for sure, and maybe an LS6 intake (unless I get an '02)
but just wonder what else? or is the only way to get to 450 is with forced induction?
and is it save for stock internals to be pushing that kind of HP?
thanks
I know I will be getting headers for sure, and maybe an LS6 intake (unless I get an '02)
but just wonder what else? or is the only way to get to 450 is with forced induction?
and is it save for stock internals to be pushing that kind of HP?
thanks
But seriously, a well matched H/C combo with all the bolt-ons. Beyond that, without going FI, you could stroke the engine, and increase the compression ratio (which also improves gas mileage). FI: not necessary unless you want something that's extremely easy, and have the $ for it.
I know I will be getting headers for sure, and maybe an LS6 intake (unless I get an '02)
and is it save for stock internals to be pushing that kind of HP?
#24
I agree, I bought the car with this setup on it and was kind of confused as to why he didn't upgrade the heads when he did the cam... and everyone knows Flowmaster is a bad idea for LS motors. I think once I change the heads and exhaust, and re-tune I will be well over 400 without the nitrous. I have everything else already to get me there.
#25
10 Second Club
iTrader: (9)
what is with you guys wanting to do a HVAC deleat to make 450 hp? thats just nonsense and its not going to net enouph HP to really be notice and if you want you could just deleate the A/C and keep the heat and get the same power results.
450HP is not hard to get, good seat of heads and a cam to match, got for a 11.1 compression atleast. Good intake setup and 1 7/8 headers with a good exaust system.
should be 450 and if your a little shy of 450 then get yourself a eletric water pump and underdrive pully and your good to go.
450HP is not hard to get, good seat of heads and a cam to match, got for a 11.1 compression atleast. Good intake setup and 1 7/8 headers with a good exaust system.
should be 450 and if your a little shy of 450 then get yourself a eletric water pump and underdrive pully and your good to go.
#31
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
I can think of more reasons a street car that you want reliable with little to nothing changed with the idle/mpg/powerband/etc... Would be better off with nitrous than a snail or blower.
I have thought for a long, long, long time about all the pros and cons of all three for a true street car. Turbo was counted out very quick. Blower held its own in my eyes for a while but was counted out later on. Blower has all the pros of both with very, very few cons. The only con that I can think of that matters to myself, the power isn't there 24/7. However, for me.. I don't need the power unless I'm racing, otherwise I'm just BSing around and could care less.
And I'll take that name, I've been called worse!!
#32
TECH Resident
iTrader: (3)
Eh, couple different ways to look at it.
I can think of more reasons a street car that you want reliable with little to nothing changed with the idle/mpg/powerband/etc... Would be better off with nitrous than a snail or blower.
I have thought for a long, long, long time about all the pros and cons of all three for a true street car. Turbo was counted out very quick. Blower held its own in my eyes for a while but was counted out later on. Blower has all the pros of both with very, very few cons. The only con that I can think of that matters to myself, the power isn't there 24/7. However, for me.. I don't need the power unless I'm racing, otherwise I'm just BSing around and could care less.
And I'll take that name, I've been called worse!!
I can think of more reasons a street car that you want reliable with little to nothing changed with the idle/mpg/powerband/etc... Would be better off with nitrous than a snail or blower.
I have thought for a long, long, long time about all the pros and cons of all three for a true street car. Turbo was counted out very quick. Blower held its own in my eyes for a while but was counted out later on. Blower has all the pros of both with very, very few cons. The only con that I can think of that matters to myself, the power isn't there 24/7. However, for me.. I don't need the power unless I'm racing, otherwise I'm just BSing around and could care less.
And I'll take that name, I've been called worse!!
But I see what you mean. Hints why my car already makes approx. 500hp N/A and is probably getting bottle feed strictly for the reasoning you mentioned, for racing. The thing is I don't drive my car a lot and I surely don't do much racing.
#33
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
I think the main reason a supercharger is preferred for a street car is that there's no worries of running out of it, like running out of juice in the bottle.
But I see what you mean. Hints why my car already makes approx. 500hp N/A and is probably getting bottle feed strictly for the reasoning you mentioned, for racing. The thing is I don't drive my car a lot and I surely don't do much racing.
But I see what you mean. Hints why my car already makes approx. 500hp N/A and is probably getting bottle feed strictly for the reasoning you mentioned, for racing. The thing is I don't drive my car a lot and I surely don't do much racing.
If I do go out for a night of racing however, I might get 5 run MAX... And thats if there is a whole lot of nice cars out.
I'm not stupid enough to go out with a bottle 1/4 empty, its not that expensive or hard to get it filled.
Chances of me being caught without enough giggle gas is slim to none. A 100 shot will last me a solid 10 sprays, more than enough for a full weekend of fun.
Plus... When you are door to door on the first run and then pull 8 lengths on the second run people are like WTF!?
Nitrous is it IMO.. I will own a procharger car in the future at some point because I have love for them both, but nitrous is hard to beat for many reasons.
#36
#38
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (71)
First, remember that an auto and dyno numbers mean nothing. It's all about the et that shows how an auto is performing. I make 377rwhp full weight and ran the times in sig barely spinning in 2200+da.
An autos first mod should be a converter, it is needed to get an auto run the expected time with any mods. They are dogs without a larger torque converter.
#39
TECH Enthusiast
iTrader: (19)
450 whp= stall, decent size shelf cam with supporting mods, good pair of heads prolly stage 2 or 3 or set of 205-215 and milled, fast 90 or equivelant, good free flowing intake to the manifold, GOOD 1 3/4 stepped headers to 1 7/8, HF cats with 3 inch y pipe, 25-30% UD pulley. generally that should do'er
#40
My car:
ETP 215's, S7 cam w/110lsa, stock block, Fast 90 with Nick Williams ported, 36# injectors, 25% underdrive pulley, Hooker long tubes, stock bottom end, Hooker off road Y pipe w/QTP cutout, Still have AC, SLP lid, Smooth bellow, stock fuel system, tuned.
I make 455rhp 400rwtq. Upgraded rear end though. Strange 9" with Detroit Locker. Stock tranny still but next year will be Tick stage 2 and RST.
ETP 215's, S7 cam w/110lsa, stock block, Fast 90 with Nick Williams ported, 36# injectors, 25% underdrive pulley, Hooker long tubes, stock bottom end, Hooker off road Y pipe w/QTP cutout, Still have AC, SLP lid, Smooth bellow, stock fuel system, tuned.
I make 455rhp 400rwtq. Upgraded rear end though. Strange 9" with Detroit Locker. Stock tranny still but next year will be Tick stage 2 and RST.