exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

ok cool, so 3rd and let her rip... and thats true I guess just stupid people

boogiewonderland

Here is my two cents worth it would depend on what your planning on building the car for is it going to serve duty on the drag strip if so what your goal there. will you be running 8th miles or quarters. will you be auto cross racing the horse power has to be delivered a lot differently there. The guys here are all right in there opinions because most of what is said is true. a lot of combos work but in different ways. here is one that you might try. http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...lock_for_3252/... it may get you to the goal with some balance and with out radical cams and exhaust notes that will drive you mad on a long ride.. the engine will thank you with good mileage and tons of torque which is always more fun than hp. imo

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Well where I come from its all about drag racing, and I run the 1/4.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

But i dont have the cash to put down on a turbo kit.

boogiewonderland

ITEM PN COST
Junkyard 5.3L motor, PCM, wiring harness
$449
Ebay 76mm turbo N/A $425
T4 turbo flange 14410 $26
1.75-inch U-bend N/A $25
2.5-inch U-bend N/A $27
3-inch U-bend N/A $37
2.5-inch flex joint 4556 $27
3-inch flex joint 46544 $32
Silicone coupler 2744B $59
Silicone reducer 2760B $15
2.5-inch V-band clamp and weld end N/A $26
3-inch V-band clamp and weld end N/A $38
T4 oil drain flange 2849 $15
-10AN oil line (3 feet) 230003 $21
-8AN oil line(3 feet) 230803 $16
1/8-to-4AN adapter fitting 10292 $4
3/8-to-10AN adapter fitting 10294 $5
O2 sensor bung 1194A $5
Turbosmart wastegate 0504-1001 $399
Turbosmart blow-off valve 0204-1001 $299
Turbosmart boost controller 0106-1001 $137
Ford SVO 42 lb/hr injectors M-9593-F302 $309
GM 2.5 bar MAP sensor 12614973 $53
GM LS6 valvesprings 12499224 $57
HPTuners software N/A $499
GM '01 LS6 camshaft 12560950 $183
NGK TR6 spark plugs (8) 4177 $16
Royal Purple 10W-40 oil (6 quarts) 01140 $48
TOTAL: $3,252

DYNO RESULTS

5.3L at 8 psi 5.3L at 12 psi 5.3L w/LS6 cam at 12 psi
RPM HP TQ HP TQ HP TQ
4,100 433 555 444 569 457 585
4,200 446 558 458 572 468 585
4,300 459 560 470 574 480 587
4,400 470 561 481 575 492 587
4,500 481 562 492 574 502
585
4,600 492 561 502 573 511 584
4,700 502 561 512 572 522 584
4,800 511 559 521 570 535 585
4,900 518 555 528 566 548 587
5,000 524 550 536 563 560 588
5,100 528 544 543 560 569 586
5,200 530 536 548 554 575 581
5,300 532 527 550 545 580 575
5,400 531 516 550 535 585 569
5,500 528 504 547 522 589 563
5,600 524 491 542 508 594 557
Scoggin-Dickey Parts Center
5901 Spur 327
Lubbock
TX 79424
800-456-0211
www.sdparts.com Fastlane Inc.
10541 FM 1960 Rd W #600
Houston
TX 77070
713-600-8600
www.fastlaneturbo.com
Turbosmart
11650 Mission Park Drive
Suite 103
Rancho Cucamonga
CA 91730
909-476-2570
www.turbosmartonline.com School of Automotive Machinists
1911 Antoine
Houston
TX 77055
713-683-3817
www.samracing.com

Read more: http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...#ixzz1aQDDWMNK



minus the engine and a few things you can reuse or get on ebay craigslist or racingjunk your looking at about 2500 which is a lot of bang for your buck. all things considered... check this out also.. https://ls1tech.com/forums/forced-in...hp-tuners.html

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Is rather throw some nitrous at what I already have. More reliable, better built, less head ache, less labor, same or less money, same power, no lag, the list goes on..

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

So what kind of nitrous setup should or could I run on a manily stock setup. should I do the converter first? or can I just put exhaust and the lid+chris1313 and throw on a good size shot?

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

So since my state doesnt have emissions or anything how hard would it be to remove the smog pump? I have seen the block off plates but arent sure on the difficulty level

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

Removing the air pump is easy. It is located under the driver's side headlight. You gain access to it from under the front of the car, behind the bumper cover. There is a plastic door with 2 bolts to remove to gain access to it.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Im talking about the egr crap that runs into the exhaust and is on the motor. But speaking of the air pump I just had to replace the relay for it yesterday and If I was to remove it all together would it mess anything up?

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

Your car is an 02, it does not have EGR. What you are seeing are the A.I.R lines to the exhaust manifolds. They run to the AIR pump, which I explained earlier how to remove. It will not affect performance at all to remove it, however it will set a code and turn the "Check Engine" light on.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

OOOOOOOOOOOOOO!!!! Ha Ha ok, yea I had that code but replaced the relay and reset the codes and fixed it. ok cool so when I get headers should I get some with that bung on them or just get normal ones and pull it all out? and if pulling it out is ok is the a write up on how to do so?

Blu99T/A

iTrader: (5)

You can do either. If you pull the AIR out (I would), you can get the race style headers or just use the block off plates (Speed Inc sells them).

Pull the AIR out is pretty easy. Unhook from the exhaust manifolds and pull it out following the lines. There will be a block to come out also on the back of the driver's side head. 4 bolts and a plug to remove the AIR pump.

A tune can clear those codes out perm.

Were you planning on running cats? If not then the rear 02's will need tuned out sometime as well.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Sweet sounds easy enough and yea no cats for me... I'm a dog guy.... Ok bad joke but hey

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Just look into a basic wet kit.

Start reading nitrous stickies and you will get a good idea of what you want/need. You can spray a 100 shot safely for as little as 500-600$ all the way up to 2,000$. All depends on what you feel comfortable with.

A bone stock car with different plugs can handle a 100 shot just fine.. No tune needed/no fuel pump needed/etc.. However, this is asking for trouble and I don't really suggest it.
My buddy has a bone stock 2000 with a lid.. He installed a wet kit and sprayed two full bottles through it in a few weeks on a 125 hit. First few sprays were on STOCK 50K mile spark plugs and 87 octane

DO NOT do that.. I'm just saying it isn't as dangerous as people say. Take the steps to make a decent kit and your car with a good tune should last forever on a 150 hit.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Cool I will have to look into it next

WayFast84

That was my plan but my heads have to get pulled so...

243 LS6 heads with springs $600 shipped
PAT G cam/Timing chain/oil pump-$1000
Tune-$400

I should have a trap speed of 117+ when I'm done. Gonna skip the Chris1313 for now and do the whole intake/tb/ram air after I have tick rebuild my t56 to hold the power I'm going to be making..

Come up to a goal and stick with it. Research and plan your mods!

Edit. My first mod to an auto would be a converter and a trans cooler, hand's down best bang for the buck in an auto.

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Well i have a ram air box is that better then a lid? and I have been researching like crazy and asking tons of questions... just ask lemons

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

FTRA/SSRA/Chrs1313 are ram airs... These are "boxes" that go in front of the radiator and suck up air from under the car and feed it into the lid (under).

The lid is the... lid... That clamps down over your air filter/in front of your tb/bellow.

Intake is the big plastic piece on top of your engine.. TB is connected to it in the middle of the intake/lid.

MAF/bellow is in the middle of the TB and lid.

He is saying he is upgrading the lid/TB/etc before the Chrs1313... Doing the entire lid/tb/maf/intake/etc correctly is very expensive. Stick to the chrs1313/ported TB/ls6 intake.. Since you have an a4, it doesn't respond well to a larger maf and you have more of a chance of having problems with it.

I'm sure you knew most that, just broke it down 100% to double check and for any noob that might come across this..... Like a noob would search. LOL

exodus_gs1

iTrader: (3)

Lol yea I got most of that but what I was meaning that my "lid" has a top hole to allow air coming in my ram air hood to flow into my filter from the top. So instead of my lid being solid on top it is open. And yea not many true noobs would search I am new to trans ams and autos but not cars lol.