LS-ONE_DAY

Update: A friend came over yesterday and we went over the car a little bit. We still couldn't reach the back header bolt on the drivers side to tighten it.

We did pull a plug on the passenger bank and check it though. Visually he said it looked fine and it didn't smell like fuel. We put it back in and double checked the connections.

I ended up starting the car. It sounded like it was on all 8 and it definitely wasn't idling as rough as before, it was much smoother. I just let it idle for a couple minutes, I didn't drive it at all.

I still have to get the oil changed, get the header bolt(s) done, and then replace the a motor mount bolt on each side, the dipstick bolt, and heat wrap wires. I made the mistake of tossing all the hardware in a plastic bag (i've since labeled some of it) but I don't remember which bolt is for the dipstick. What size head is it (10, 13, 15?) Hopefully I find the right one, if not I'll just buy one, I'm sure its only a couple cents to replace

777

iTrader: (21)

It should be a 13 or a 15. I know they changed it up on some years, my guess would be on it being a 13mm about 3/4" long.

LS-ONE_DAY

Ok thanks for that, I'll check the hardware out when I get home.

I took a pic of the headers on the drivers side, and you can see how far the back header bolt has come out in it...

Mark2002

iTrader: (2)

Try accessing the rear passenger side header bolt from underneath. Seem to remember doing that when I installed mine.

Mark.

LS-ONE_DAY

Yeah I think that might be how we did it too but I don't have a jack at home which sucks. Or maybe that was just to get the plug out, we might have been able to reach the bolt by removing the coil pack, not sure. Deleting AC would solve most of the issues on that side but I don't really want to do that and if I did I have no idea how hard it would be to reinstall it in the future.

Fry_

I'd just use the jack that came with the car for the spare tire.

777

iTrader: (21)

Wow, that's crazy how far that's backed out.

LS-ONE_DAY

Yeah thats why i'm worried about driving it...I have some extra header bolts in case i lose it on the way to a mechanic but I'm still leary about driving with it like that if it falls out

777

iTrader: (21)

I have never had trouble reaching that bolt. Take the coil packs off and it should be a breeze.

LS-ONE_DAY

Lol damn coil packs I'll give that a try tonight. I should have a scanner on the car in about 2 hours so I'll post the codes that pop up then

gocartone

iTrader: (4)

Just need the right tools to get that last bolt; I did my header install without taking the coil packs out and didn't have a huge problem with that bolt, I might have tightened it from under the car though. Next time be sure to make a checklist, or follow the guide on here, to make sure you get it done right haha...I had a laptop with the step-by-step guide when I did mine, helped a lot(except for getting those damn motor mounts to line up)!

LS-ONE_DAY

The scanner showed 8 codes. Here is a list so you guys can give me input on them.

P0405
P0302
P0300
P0155
P0352
P0354
P0356
P0358

I am pretty sure that P0300, P0352, P0354, P0356, P0358, and P0302 are all related to the fact that the coil pack wasn't attached so the computer had those codes saved into it. P0405 i'm sure is from removing EGR and P0155 is from messing with the O2 sensors for the headers right? (we cleared all codes with his scanner for the time being)

777

iTrader: (21)

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...look-here.html

LS-ONE_DAY

Thanks, I used that to check them all after we used the scanner to verify. P0405 and P0155 are the ones that are ok to be there after the install right, the expected codes?

777

iTrader: (21)

P0405 - EGR
P0302 - Misfire
P0300 - Misfire
P0155 - Rear 02 - Sens 1
P0352 - Ignition Coil B
P0354 - Ignition Coil D
P0356 - Ignition Coil F
P0358 - Ignition Coil H

You are correct all of them except the two listed are from you not plugging your coil packs back in on that one bank.

I'm actually surprised you don't have another O2 sensor code for the other bank.

LS-ONE_DAY

Yeah I was worried about that...do you think it could be throwing the code for that O2 because it is damaged or dead? ARH put bungs on the ORY too because people have requested them for the back O2s even though they are "fake". So I plugged them with the other 2 O2s from the stock exhaust. One of them is cracked but the other may be ok still so I could swap that one with the one throwing the bank 2 sensor 1 code....

777

iTrader: (21)

No matter if they are good or not they should be reporting as malfunctioning since there are no cats if you have an ORY. The only ones that actually affect the way the car runs are the front two.

LS-ONE_DAY

Oh alright, yeah I know the fronts are the only two that matter, I just thought it odd to only have that one code at the time. Maybe the other one popped up since then.

I drove the car 17 miles to the mechanic and it seemed smooth driving. Putting the car in reverse there is a slight banging noise though, perhaps the exhaust is hitting under the car, occasionally does it at low speeds in Drive also. Mechanic wasn't thrilled about the stuff he had to do but hopefully he gets it back to safe order