What's better nailing it from a dig or loading the torque converter?
#1
What's better nailing it from a dig or loading the torque converter?
I was wondering because i was running at the track and couldn't break out of the 13.4's then the very last run of the night I ran a 13.2 when i just pinned the gas instead of loading the torque converter. Maybe I just answered my own question but maybe I wasn't loading the converter enough... It's a bone stock camaro ss with slp lid.
#4
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I think it depends on track prep, my old car was an automatic and 'foot braking' (preloading?) seemed to work best because it wouldn't spin off the line. If you can mash the gas I believe it 'flashes' the converter and would give you your best runs pending you had good traction. I always found myself experimenting as then sticking with what worked on any given day. Good luck and 13.2 for a stock auto is a nice run! Slip?
#5
TECH Veteran
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missed the 'bone stock'.
For me,letting it 'flash' off idle produces the same ETs' as foot braking to an RPM(I've tried different rpms),but 'flashing' gives much lower and consistent 'reaction times' as I'm able to concentrate solely on the tree and not both tree and tach.
For me,letting it 'flash' off idle produces the same ETs' as foot braking to an RPM(I've tried different rpms),but 'flashing' gives much lower and consistent 'reaction times' as I'm able to concentrate solely on the tree and not both tree and tach.
#7
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I have yet to try flashing it at the drag strip. I have always preloaded but I have intereset in trying the flashing, but I'm scared of breaking something if I was to just stomp on the gas pedal as hard as I can without preloading. I think I may try it next time at the track tho..seems scary to me.
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#10
What was really cool was I met a guy with an ls1 camaro with 260k miles and running consistent 13.2's on original motor and transmission with long tubes and some weird brand intake i've never even heard of before.
#17
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I've found and seen that with tight tight converters and stock converters, flashing doesn't produce the short times I need to win. Loading the converter up under the stall's rated stall speed and then punching it and letting it flash to it's stall speed always works better in my case especially with the loose stall I have.
Also I think some people have flashing misinterpreted. Flashing the converter is either punching it off the line from idle OR loading the converter up, whether on the foot brake or transbrake and keeping it under it's MAX stall speed, and then as you let off the transbrake or footbrake and floor it, it is then FLASHING to it's maximum stall speed wherever the engines torque output makes it flash to.
The only way I am aware of that you can make the converter NOT flash(through my own personal testing and then looking at the data logs speed vs. rpm) is to put the car on the transbrake without a 2 step and let it rev as high as the converter will allow on the transbrake. Launching like this leaves little to NO flash in the converter.
Also I think some people have flashing misinterpreted. Flashing the converter is either punching it off the line from idle OR loading the converter up, whether on the foot brake or transbrake and keeping it under it's MAX stall speed, and then as you let off the transbrake or footbrake and floor it, it is then FLASHING to it's maximum stall speed wherever the engines torque output makes it flash to.
The only way I am aware of that you can make the converter NOT flash(through my own personal testing and then looking at the data logs speed vs. rpm) is to put the car on the transbrake without a 2 step and let it rev as high as the converter will allow on the transbrake. Launching like this leaves little to NO flash in the converter.