Trans Cooler question... *VID*
03-21-2012, 09:27 PM
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Trans Cooler question... *VID* I posted this thread in the Auto trans section, had 144 views but no answers... maybe you guys in this section could help.
WIll a 15,000btu trans cooler be ok for my 3800 Stall'd Tranny?
I did upgrade the radiator to a slightly larger one, and was planning on using it in series with the trans cooler.
Any input welcome...
Thx
This is what i had in mind
http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=un...d-11x5-34x1-12
WIll a 15,000btu trans cooler be ok for my 3800 Stall'd Tranny?
I did upgrade the radiator to a slightly larger one, and was planning on using it in series with the trans cooler.
Any input welcome...
Thx
This is what i had in mind
http://bmracing.com/?wpsc-product=un...d-11x5-34x1-12
Last edited by LASTOFTHEBREED02T/A; 03-26-2012 at 09:16 PM.
03-22-2012, 08:05 AM
#3
Agreed, Larger is better. I used to run a exterior cooler in line with the stock radiator but IMO at best I think the cooler in the radiator will actual heat up the fluid and actual become counter productive.
Some coolers out there from B&M have a provision that will by pass the cooler until it reaches a certain temp (to avoid over cooling, or taking a long time to be up to proper temp).
Every car is different, if you had a trans brake or something that is certainly going to have an effect on temps I would be advising 2 exterior coolers with pusher fans but you should be fine with a single 24k.
IF your real worried wire up a Trans Temp Guage to monitor.
Some coolers out there from B&M have a provision that will by pass the cooler until it reaches a certain temp (to avoid over cooling, or taking a long time to be up to proper temp).
Every car is different, if you had a trans brake or something that is certainly going to have an effect on temps I would be advising 2 exterior coolers with pusher fans but you should be fine with a single 24k.
IF your real worried wire up a Trans Temp Guage to monitor.
03-22-2012, 09:18 AM
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As said, you don't need to run through the radiator if you have a cooler. The radiator will just transfer all that engine heat to your transmission. Just install the cooler where it will get constant airflow and hook it up, in front of the radiator would be a good location.
03-22-2012, 11:31 AM
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If you have modified fan settings that keep the engine coolant cooler than stock, then the factory cooler can assist the aftermarket cooler by use as a "pre-cooler". This is how I have always had mine setup, and trans temps always have stayed below 200 (both with stock and aftermarket stalls). If your fan settings are still allowing the coolant to reach the stock 220-230° though, then you're better off with just the aftermarket cooler alone.
I've never used the 24k coolers, my personal applications have never been extreme enough to need all that. 16k and 19k have been plenty for me.
I've never used the 24k coolers, my personal applications have never been extreme enough to need all that. 16k and 19k have been plenty for me.
03-22-2012, 03:21 PM
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Agreed, Larger is better. I used to run a exterior cooler in line with the stock radiator but IMO at best I think the cooler in the radiator will actual heat up the fluid and actual become counter productive.
Ok, heat is a big enemy down here in texas, and even tho i have a larger radiator, i will more than likely not use it in series like i thought of doing it.
Some coolers out there from B&M have a provision that will by pass the cooler until it reaches a certain temp (to avoid over cooling, or taking a long time to be up to proper temp).
Do you have any more info on this? Or where i can research?
Every car is different, if you had a trans brake or something that is certainly going to have an effect on temps I would be advising 2 exterior coolers with pusher fans but you should be fine with a single 24k.
I dont have anything special just stronger built tranny and stall... 24K seemed like it might be too much, but then again i had never had this in the past.
IF your real worried wire up a Trans Temp Guage to monitor.
Ok, heat is a big enemy down here in texas, and even tho i have a larger radiator, i will more than likely not use it in series like i thought of doing it.
Some coolers out there from B&M have a provision that will by pass the cooler until it reaches a certain temp (to avoid over cooling, or taking a long time to be up to proper temp).
Do you have any more info on this? Or where i can research?
Every car is different, if you had a trans brake or something that is certainly going to have an effect on temps I would be advising 2 exterior coolers with pusher fans but you should be fine with a single 24k.
I dont have anything special just stronger built tranny and stall... 24K seemed like it might be too much, but then again i had never had this in the past.
IF your real worried wire up a Trans Temp Guage to monitor.
As said, you don't need to run through the radiator if you have a cooler. The radiator will just transfer all that engine heat to your transmission. Just install the cooler where it will get constant airflow and hook it up, in front of the radiator would be a good location.
Thanks, did he give you any type of parameters for certain stalls? or just played it safe with a 24k?
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03-22-2012, 03:26 PM
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If you have modified fan settings that keep the engine coolant cooler than stock, then the factory cooler can assist the aftermarket cooler by use as a "pre-cooler". This is how I have always had mine setup, and trans temps always have stayed below 200 (both with stock and aftermarket stalls). If your fan settings are still allowing the coolant to reach the stock 220-230° though, then you're better off with just the aftermarket cooler alone.
I've never used the 24k coolers, my personal applications have never been extreme enough to need all that. 16k and 19k have been plenty for me.
I've never used the 24k coolers, my personal applications have never been extreme enough to need all that. 16k and 19k have been plenty for me.
Also, the 16-19kbtu range you've used is with a stand alone cooler and not with the aid of radiator. right?
03-22-2012, 05:05 PM
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I've always used 16k and 19k B&M units in addition to (after) the stock cooler, but my fan settings usually keep engine coolant in the 19x range. This has been with street setups that include anything from a stock stall to a 3500-4000 unit, and nothing fancy like trans brakes, etc.
If you plan to push the car/trans hard at the track often and make tons of power then you might want to look at the bigger coolers and omission of the stock cooler. Only downside to the bigger coolers is that they become more difficult to mount due to size. It can certainly be done if you have the need for it though.
03-22-2012, 05:15 PM
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Thank you all very much... I may go with this cooler, seems reasonable price.
http://bmperformance.carshopinc.com/...id/11091/70264
What do you guys think?
http://bmperformance.carshopinc.com/...id/11091/70264
What do you guys think?
03-22-2012, 05:16 PM
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Not really. On an '02 car, even if the gauge says "210" it could be anywhere from 190-230°F.
"BTU" is not the correct unit of measurement here. It's GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight), and the 16k, 19k and 24k are all poundage.
I've always used 16k and 19k B&M units in addition to (after) the stock cooler, but my fan settings usually keep engine coolant in the 19x range. This has been with street setups that include anything from a stock stall to a 3500-4000 unit, and nothing fancy like trans brakes, etc.
If you plan to push the car/trans hard at the track often and make tons of power then you might want to look at the bigger coolers and omission of the stock cooler. Only downside to the bigger coolers is that they become more difficult to mount due to size. It can certainly be done if you have the need for it though.
"BTU" is not the correct unit of measurement here. It's GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight), and the 16k, 19k and 24k are all poundage.
I've always used 16k and 19k B&M units in addition to (after) the stock cooler, but my fan settings usually keep engine coolant in the 19x range. This has been with street setups that include anything from a stock stall to a 3500-4000 unit, and nothing fancy like trans brakes, etc.
If you plan to push the car/trans hard at the track often and make tons of power then you might want to look at the bigger coolers and omission of the stock cooler. Only downside to the bigger coolers is that they become more difficult to mount due to size. It can certainly be done if you have the need for it though.
03-22-2012, 05:27 PM
#12
the 70264 is what alot of guys on here run. it is a great cooler for your application. i am running the 70274 which is wider then that one, in reality it is massive! big pain to find a place to put it but it does it's job very well. tranny has never been above 150.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70274/
here it is.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BMM-70274/
here it is.
Last edited by jsteele90; 03-22-2012 at 07:08 PM.
03-22-2012, 05:48 PM
#13
I run this...https://ls1tech.com/forums/14646393-post42.html
It does pretty good. This is mounted right on the radiator because I have no a/c and no condensor in the way. My fan settings allow the cooling system to operate MOST of the time 186f-208f but still I wouldnt use the stock cooler. Trans temps are MOST of the time 150f-180f and after racing in the summer they will climb to 190s. Those temps may be lower than what my gauge shows...reading temps from the pcm reads higher than an after market gauge (so iv been told).
Not a bad cooler although iv been thinking about puting the a/c back which means ill have to mover my cooler. Ill probably go with a huge b&m and mount it in my bumper seeing how I have no bumper supports
It does pretty good. This is mounted right on the radiator because I have no a/c and no condensor in the way. My fan settings allow the cooling system to operate MOST of the time 186f-208f but still I wouldnt use the stock cooler. Trans temps are MOST of the time 150f-180f and after racing in the summer they will climb to 190s. Those temps may be lower than what my gauge shows...reading temps from the pcm reads higher than an after market gauge (so iv been told).
Not a bad cooler although iv been thinking about puting the a/c back which means ill have to mover my cooler. Ill probably go with a huge b&m and mount it in my bumper seeing how I have no bumper supports
03-22-2012, 10:34 PM
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I don't mean to Hi - Jack, but if one was going to bypass the stock trans cooler.. How would they do that? I know there are many how to's on setting up a cooler, but I don't think I've ever came across one that demonstrated how to bypass the stock cooler. Any help would be appreciated because I am also thinking off running a cooler.
03-23-2012, 06:58 AM
#16
I don't mean to Hi - Jack, but if one was going to bypass the stock trans cooler.. How would they do that? I know there are many how to's on setting up a cooler, but I don't think I've ever came across one that demonstrated how to bypass the stock cooler. Any help would be appreciated because I am also thinking off running a cooler.
03-23-2012, 06:59 AM
#17
Thank you all very much... I may go with this cooler, seems reasonable price.
http://bmperformance.carshopinc.com/...id/11091/70264
What do you guys think?
http://bmperformance.carshopinc.com/...id/11091/70264
What do you guys think?
03-23-2012, 12:09 PM
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03-23-2012, 01:14 PM
#19
lol I hear yea.
http://www.ws6transam.org/transcooler.html Blocked at work, But came up on google
http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploa...er_techdoc.pdf (orintation guide)
To give you an Idea when I DID run it with the radiator in line. You take a pipe cutter and lop off like a good 3 inches from the fitting backwards. The fittings will still insert into the radiator but where the lines from the trans to the radiator, you are going to splice using rubber fuel lines (autozone, sized accordingly).
There are instructions in the manual but basically one of the hard lines will have a rubber line attatched, and runs through the air dam or drill the radiator support. It will hit the cooler, then exit the cooler, back through the dam/support up to the lower radiator fitting, then from the top fitting will run back the other trans fitting.
I forget the "FLOW" but think of it this way.
Trans OUT
B&M Cooler IN (using rubber line)
B&M Cooler OUT (using rubber line)
Lower Radiator Fitting (using rubber line)
Top Radiator fitting back to the Trans.
*** This is off memory so if I got it wrong, I suggest a quick check in the automatic section.
http://www.ws6transam.org/transcooler.html Blocked at work, But came up on google
http://bmracing.com/wp-bnmcont/uploa...er_techdoc.pdf (orintation guide)
To give you an Idea when I DID run it with the radiator in line. You take a pipe cutter and lop off like a good 3 inches from the fitting backwards. The fittings will still insert into the radiator but where the lines from the trans to the radiator, you are going to splice using rubber fuel lines (autozone, sized accordingly).
There are instructions in the manual but basically one of the hard lines will have a rubber line attatched, and runs through the air dam or drill the radiator support. It will hit the cooler, then exit the cooler, back through the dam/support up to the lower radiator fitting, then from the top fitting will run back the other trans fitting.
I forget the "FLOW" but think of it this way.
Trans OUT
B&M Cooler IN (using rubber line)
B&M Cooler OUT (using rubber line)
Lower Radiator Fitting (using rubber line)
Top Radiator fitting back to the Trans.
*** This is off memory so if I got it wrong, I suggest a quick check in the automatic section.
03-23-2012, 05:38 PM
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Thank you guys very much for all the info and knowledge...
Have another question tho... Which one is the return trans oil line, and where do you tap in to it?
I bought a Big Trans cooler that will cool a full size Motorhome towing a 10,000lbs fifth wheel. lol!!! Bigger is better i guess.
Its made by Hayden, i was told this brand and BnM are the same thing, but just a name/$$ difference.
Have another question tho... Which one is the return trans oil line, and where do you tap in to it?
I bought a Big Trans cooler that will cool a full size Motorhome towing a 10,000lbs fifth wheel. lol!!! Bigger is better i guess.
Its made by Hayden, i was told this brand and BnM are the same thing, but just a name/$$ difference.