Help me before I waste money
06-13-2012, 05:00 AM
#1
Help me before I waste money Was getting in to it with a vette today and I was running hard. Shifted from 2nd to 3rd and clutch pedal stuck to the floor. Drove a bit and it came back up. First time I ran the car this hard and first time this happened. I searched and read a bunch. New clutch master cylinder? Gonna order a Tick. Car has 470 rwhp and stock tranny, stock master cylinder. If I spend the cash on the Tick will it fix my problem? Funds are limited so I would prefer high chance of success. Is there anyway to diagnose it other than trial and error?
06-13-2012, 05:20 AM
#2
TECH Enthusiast
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Memphis, tn
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Take a look at the master cylinder installed in the car, I never had this problem, but if i recall correctly, when i replaced my friends, his was broken in half and the clutch pedal would stay stuck.
06-13-2012, 03:17 PM
#3
TECH Resident
ha yup. thats your master cylinder. especially with aftermarket clutches the stuck pedal becomes an even bigger problem... the drill mod is just a temp fix. I have heard great things about the tick
06-13-2012, 09:43 PM
#6
Slave is the general culprit for pedal crash. A tick unit uses a tilton master which pushes more fluid, great to help WOT full/quick shifts. Bleeding the system should be done first, just to see where you get. I post stuff in the Manual section all the time and list a how to on bleeding for F bodies but generally should not be that much different.
06-14-2012, 07:42 PM
#7
Slave is the general culprit for pedal crash. A tick unit uses a tilton master which pushes more fluid, great to help WOT full/quick shifts. Bleeding the system should be done first, just to see where you get. I post stuff in the Manual section all the time and list a how to on bleeding for F bodies but generally should not be that much different.
Alright, i'll do that. Someone else on another forum told me to bleed it first too. Another thing, I know it doesn't have to do with my original post but I have yet to see the shift light come on. Car has Speed Inc's SI7 cam. I took it up to 6500 and still didn't come on trying to replicate the pedal crash. It makes me nervous going that high cause all I can see is red on the tach. It does have ARP rod bolts, ETP heads, and so on from the receipts I have for the parts installed. I have been researching it and find a wide variety of answers. I keep reading about 6500-6800 is max for LS1 but have read about people going as high as 7500. At what point do you think it should come on? I don't want to break it. I would keep going until it came on but that far in the red makes me a little paranoid.
I know what a rev limiter sounds like and have yet to hear my car do that. Would they have taken the rev limiter off?
Last edited by Ronerik; 06-14-2012 at 08:17 PM.
Trending Topics
06-14-2012, 11:53 PM
#8
Nevermind. I looked up the shift light in the car and found out how to tell. It's a Raptor shift light so I need to take a look at the dials and then I will know. I'm at work now so will do when I get home. I told you I was new to this......
06-15-2012, 05:26 PM
#9
Well, it was set at 6500. I set it down to 1500 to see if it worked an it didn't. It would power up but not turn on when the rpm was hit. Got under the hood and re checked the wires. Everything looked good. Got back in the car and turned it on. The shift light did something new. So revved it up and sure enough it worked. Green wire must have been loose.
Read the how to on bleeding hydraulics. Will dive in this weekend hopefully. Will post shots of the fluid.
Read the how to on bleeding hydraulics. Will dive in this weekend hopefully. Will post shots of the fluid.
06-16-2012, 08:48 AM
#10
I decided to copy and paste my how-to
Just do this. 100% works...
1) 2 person job, helper and person under car to crack the bleeder.
2) Disconnect line, fill resivor, put line in a tin can, allow for gravity bleed. Keep filling from top, should get 99% of all air out.
3) Connect line to slave, top off resivor.
4) DO NOT PUMP the clutch pedal EVER.
5) Have helper push down and hold, thats it. Crack bleeder, then re tighten.
6) Have helper pull up the pedal, then push down/hold
7) Crack bleeder, re tighten
8) after the 3rd time, refill the res with fluid.
9) By the 4th or 5th time you crack the bleeder, re tighten, add fluid and see if the pedal has gotten firm. It should at this point. Done this on quiet a few cars. Stock Clutch Master, Ram (like stock), and Tick units and all work fine.
**When you check for firmness make sure the res is filled, with the rubber bladder thing, and cap is on, as this is needed.
Just do this. 100% works...
1) 2 person job, helper and person under car to crack the bleeder.
2) Disconnect line, fill resivor, put line in a tin can, allow for gravity bleed. Keep filling from top, should get 99% of all air out.
3) Connect line to slave, top off resivor.
4) DO NOT PUMP the clutch pedal EVER.
5) Have helper push down and hold, thats it. Crack bleeder, then re tighten.
6) Have helper pull up the pedal, then push down/hold
7) Crack bleeder, re tighten
8) after the 3rd time, refill the res with fluid.
9) By the 4th or 5th time you crack the bleeder, re tighten, add fluid and see if the pedal has gotten firm. It should at this point. Done this on quiet a few cars. Stock Clutch Master, Ram (like stock), and Tick units and all work fine.
**When you check for firmness make sure the res is filled, with the rubber bladder thing, and cap is on, as this is needed.
