Winter Storage Tips
Always glad to help. 
Frankly, I've never heard of winter storage as a proven primary reason for failed valve springs. I could understand an already flawed or weakened spring breaking as a result of a cold start, but that wouldn't specifically require the term of winter storage to occur. I've stored many cars over the years with stock springs/stock cams as well as aftermarket springs with aftermarket cams. This has never been an issue for me.
In aftermarket cam/spring applications though, valve springs may require occasional replacement that would not be expected nor required with stock equipment. Cam profile, rpm range (both peak and normal cruising), and spring type would all play a role in a recommended inspection or change interval.
Frankly, I've never heard of winter storage as a proven primary reason for failed valve springs. I could understand an already flawed or weakened spring breaking as a result of a cold start, but that wouldn't specifically require the term of winter storage to occur. I've stored many cars over the years with stock springs/stock cams as well as aftermarket springs with aftermarket cams. This has never been an issue for me.
In aftermarket cam/spring applications though, valve springs may require occasional replacement that would not be expected nor required with stock equipment. Cam profile, rpm range (both peak and normal cruising), and spring type would all play a role in a recommended inspection or change interval.
Ill worry about the springs in a few years I guess
Thanks
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
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From: Westminster, MD
I'm in the same boat here about storage. Last winter wasn't bad at all, I ended up driving it only slightly less than normal, which is only about once a week or so anyway. This year is supposed to snow more...I don't have a problem driving my car in the winter as long as the roads are clear so hopefully I won't have any extended periods of down-time where I can't take it out. It does kinda need an oil change though...I don't know if I should do that now or just wait til Spring. It was last changed almost a year ago which I know is a long time to wait, it was late December, with synthetic oil, I've only just put 3,000 miles on the car in those 11 months. I planned on changing it when it got to 3,000 but now I don't know if it's worth it to change right now or just wait til it warms up.
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Same could be said for other parts of the engine as well. Some would argue that allowing an assembled engine to sit without runing for long periods can allow the piston rings to score the cylinder walls. That isn't necessarily untrue (although not a serious concern for ~6 month storage terms IMO), but the alternative (regular cold starts to prevent this) comes with it's own set of negative side-effects. Most of the wear that a typical street engine will see during a run cycle (in normal driving conditions) is due to the cold start. So whatever good you might be doing by running an engine regularly during short term (winter) storage can easily be offset by introducing additional wear from all the extra cold starts.
I guess if you are really concerned, you could do something like this...
...but personally I have never done that for winter storage, and have never had a problem.
Last edited by RPM WS6; Nov 6, 2012 at 10:21 AM.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,610
Likes: 2,524
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
The savings from doing this could be pretty significant if you are young and/or have a less than perfect driving record.
