Winter Storage Tips
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Teching In
Joined: Sep 2012
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From: Rochester, NY
Winter Storage Tips Hey guys- i am getting ready to store my ride for the winter. Since ive never had anything nice enough to need storage before i wanted to double check here that i'm not making any huge rookie mistakes. I am in the process of scoping out local storage locations and will definitely settle with something indoors, preferably with concrete floors.
So far i will Wash car and install california car cover, Have Full tank of gas, disconnect battery and inflate tires to max rating.
I know i may only be able to start it once every month or two also.
Missing anything big here? Thanks.
So far i will Wash car and install california car cover, Have Full tank of gas, disconnect battery and inflate tires to max rating.
I know i may only be able to start it once every month or two also.
Missing anything big here? Thanks.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,610
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Here is my post from another thread:
- No need to start the car every week just to let it run. If you're not going to drive it, then just leave it dormant for the winter.
- Unless the oil needs to be changed anyway, I just wait until spring to change it.
- You could do the full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 6-8 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
Other stuff I do....
- Stabil in the gas.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~15 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
- Unless the oil needs to be changed anyway, I just wait until spring to change it.
- You could do the full-time battery tender, but instead I just hook up a smart charger every 6-8 weeks and let it trickle charge at 2 amps until it's complete (better than having wires running all over the garage all winter IMO)....this has served me well because my batteries always last many years without issues.
Other stuff I do....
- Stabil in the gas.
- Plastic/rubber under the car to block moisture from the ground as the temps change.
- Moisture dry/Damp Rid tubs in the interior of the car if the area isn't climate controlled.
- Don't put the car on jack stands unless you are properly loading the suspension. Better yet, either store the car on junk tires or simply fill your normal tires to max recommended PSI (this is what I do every year, and I've never had any permanent flat spotting problems doing so).
This is the stuff I've been doing to store cars each winter for the last ~15 years or so. Always works great, whether the car is new(er) or old.
Lucky for us West Texas winters aren't anywhere near as harsh as others, but stabil is probably first on the list, followed by checking (charging if need be) the battery, and also checking (adding if need be) air to the tires.
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Not trying to jack the thread or anything but, I was wondering, since my oil has about 500 miles on it so, should I change it before I store it? Or will be okay to store it as it is?
Joined: Nov 2001
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Unless that 500 miles was done in increments of 1-3 mile trips at a time without ever getting the engine fully warmed up, then I wouldn't bother changing it (especially if it's synthetic).
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Teching In
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From: Rochester, NY
Thanks for all the great input everybody! Very helpful information. Got my car in somewhere quickly today (still wet as we speak so i need to go back to fully dry it before the cover goes on and open the damp rid for the interior - never would have thought of that) so hurricane sandy rolling at the moment...they say lake ontario is supposed to have 22 ft waves today 
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Glad you found a spot, I know of a few areas that have storage available if that one doesn't work out for ya...
Can anyone recommend a good trickle charger/battery tender? I am storing my car in my dad's barn (aluminum siding/roof, cement floor), and my dad plans on switching which car it goes on every week or so. There will be 4 vehicles ('02 T/A, '99 Vette, '56 Cadillac, '88 Chevy 1500) that will be getting tended to, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Can anyone recommend a good trickle charger/battery tender? I am storing my car in my dad's barn (aluminum siding/roof, cement floor), and my dad plans on switching which car it goes on every week or so. There will be 4 vehicles ('02 T/A, '99 Vette, '56 Cadillac, '88 Chevy 1500) that will be getting tended to, any suggestions would be appreciated.
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,610
Likes: 2,524
From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Can anyone recommend a good trickle charger/battery tender? I am storing my car in my dad's barn (aluminum siding/roof, cement floor), and my dad plans on switching which car it goes on every week or so. There will be 4 vehicles ('02 T/A, '99 Vette, '56 Cadillac, '88 Chevy 1500) that will be getting tended to, any suggestions would be appreciated.
I don't leave it connected all winter though. Usually every ~8 weeks or so I'll hook it up on the 2 amp trickle setting until it's complete and then disconnect it. This has been my pratice for many years now, and battery life has been excellent.
just park it on concrete , no need for anything under it , my father has been storing his 77 since 77 on concrete with no problems . always been in a garage that has temp changes and the door open to let daily driver vehicles in and no rust whatsoever .
I use stabil, full tank of 93, fresh oil change , battery tender , max tires or shitty tires and some baking soda sprinkled on the interior and carpet one one odor absorber from walmart.
I use stabil, full tank of 93, fresh oil change , battery tender , max tires or shitty tires and some baking soda sprinkled on the interior and carpet one one odor absorber from walmart.
Teching In
Joined: Jun 2012
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Quick question on storing my car for the winter I did read the sticky
I'm not going to jack my car up, I will leave it on the ground but...
1: I've read not to leave the e-brake on?
2: I have an M6, should I leave it in gear or put blocks under the tires.
I'm not going to jack my car up, I will leave it on the ground but...
1: I've read not to leave the e-brake on?
2: I have an M6, should I leave it in gear or put blocks under the tires.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 1,285
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From: Elgin, Il
Leave the parking brake down (may not want to release if its left on for so long), and stick it in first. Unless your clutch is F*CKED it will never roll.
I was wondering what your opinion is on valve springs from car being stored over winter? Iv been told this is the biggest reason why they go bad.
I probably won't have a garage for my car this winter 
I'm not overly concerned about snow on the paint/possible scratches from ice because I should be painting it next year anyway (aftermarket hood/spoiler, sail panel replacement, bumper paint is all scuffed and rock chipped anyway) so I figure if it gets snowed on it won't matter much.
My only real concern is the start of rust. It is rust free and I want to keep it that way. Obviously I won't drive it on the salty roads so that won't be an issue, but my only parking is outdoor gravel. Should I put some sort of mat/tarp down on top of the gravel and park on that or would that not be helpful? I was told by someone that outdoor parking over the winter is actually better on a layer of gravel as it will air out and stay dryer than outdoor concrete. Yes/no? suggestions?
I'm not overly concerned about snow on the paint/possible scratches from ice because I should be painting it next year anyway (aftermarket hood/spoiler, sail panel replacement, bumper paint is all scuffed and rock chipped anyway) so I figure if it gets snowed on it won't matter much.My only real concern is the start of rust. It is rust free and I want to keep it that way. Obviously I won't drive it on the salty roads so that won't be an issue, but my only parking is outdoor gravel. Should I put some sort of mat/tarp down on top of the gravel and park on that or would that not be helpful? I was told by someone that outdoor parking over the winter is actually better on a layer of gravel as it will air out and stay dryer than outdoor concrete. Yes/no? suggestions?
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 34,610
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From: Schiller Park, ILL Member: #317
Frankly, I've never heard of winter storage as a proven primary reason for failed valve springs. I could understand an already flawed or weakened spring breaking as a result of a cold start, but that wouldn't specifically require the term of winter storage to occur. I've stored many cars over the years with stock springs/stock cams as well as aftermarket springs with aftermarket cams. This has never been an issue for me.
In aftermarket cam/spring applications though, valve springs may require occasional replacement that would not be expected nor required with stock equipment. Cam profile, rpm range (both peak and normal cruising), and spring type would all play a role in a recommended inspection or change interval.
I probably won't have a garage for my car this winter I'm not overly concerned about snow on the paint/possible scratches from ice because I should be painting it next year anyway (aftermarket hood/spoiler, sail panel replacement, bumper paint is all scuffed and rock chipped anyway) so I figure if it gets snowed on it won't matter much.
My only real concern is the start of rust. It is rust free and I want to keep it that way. Obviously I won't drive it on the salty roads so that won't be an issue, but my only parking is outdoor gravel. Should I put some sort of mat/tarp down on top of the gravel and park on that or would that not be helpful? I was told by someone that outdoor parking over the winter is actually better on a layer of gravel as it will air out and stay dryer than outdoor concrete. Yes/no? suggestions?
I'm not overly concerned about snow on the paint/possible scratches from ice because I should be painting it next year anyway (aftermarket hood/spoiler, sail panel replacement, bumper paint is all scuffed and rock chipped anyway) so I figure if it gets snowed on it won't matter much.My only real concern is the start of rust. It is rust free and I want to keep it that way. Obviously I won't drive it on the salty roads so that won't be an issue, but my only parking is outdoor gravel. Should I put some sort of mat/tarp down on top of the gravel and park on that or would that not be helpful? I was told by someone that outdoor parking over the winter is actually better on a layer of gravel as it will air out and stay dryer than outdoor concrete. Yes/no? suggestions?
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 487
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From: Da 'Cuse, NY
My GTO has been HCI since '07 and I just put the Stabil in it, park it in the garage w/ the batt. tender plugged in and no probs...my cam has610 lift and my springs have been fine. I'd still get them checked out every season, but winter storage shouldn't affect them IMO. If it bothers you pull the fuel pump fuse and turn the car over to keep pressure off the same spring all winter
Last edited by FryZ71; Nov 5, 2012 at 06:43 PM.
