Anyone Else Disappointed With LS1 Performance?
11-04-2012, 09:35 PM
#21
AFR 210 heads are smog legal, and any of these cams* would pass smog and work good with the stock manifolds.
*
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...16-224-115lsa/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4630
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...shaft-218-224/
http://www.engpwrsys.com/index.php?a...od&productId=9
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
Cam Motion:
C33-627, 220/230, .586"/.569", 116+4.
C33-620, 218/228, .561"/.552", 116+4.
Thunder Racing:
"TR TRuTorq" Level 1 - 219/224 .609/.604 115 LSA
" CheaTR v.3" - 219/230 .607/.604 117 LSA.
And for a custom cam a 219(.607" lsl) /226(.605" lxl) 115lsa+3, or with a softer closing intake lobe, a 218(.598"lxl) / 226(.605"lxl) 115lsa+3 .
*
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...16-224-115lsa/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4630
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...shaft-218-224/
http://www.engpwrsys.com/index.php?a...od&productId=9
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
Cam Motion:
C33-627, 220/230, .586"/.569", 116+4.
C33-620, 218/228, .561"/.552", 116+4.
Thunder Racing:
"TR TRuTorq" Level 1 - 219/224 .609/.604 115 LSA
" CheaTR v.3" - 219/230 .607/.604 117 LSA.
And for a custom cam a 219(.607" lsl) /226(.605" lxl) 115lsa+3, or with a softer closing intake lobe, a 218(.598"lxl) / 226(.605"lxl) 115lsa+3 .
Last edited by 99Bluz28; 11-04-2012 at 09:44 PM.
11-05-2012, 12:14 AM
#24
I was impressed with mine when I got it 2 years ago but it was a full suspenion/ bolt on m6 car when I got it..but after a two months I put a bottle on it b/c it felt slow after i got used too it b/c ..now im putting a stroker motor in it b/c my 200 shot started feeling slow lol....
11-05-2012, 01:56 AM
#26
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Sounds like your LS1 is beat or your expecting too much...When I had a bolt on LT1 that ran 13.3's in the late 90's I though the LS1 felt slow until I raced a stock one and he blew me away...Power comes on smooth, not low down and grunty like the LT1. Your dyno numbers are good for what you have done...maybe its just you lol.
11-05-2012, 02:24 AM
#27
My pewter car with its old 346 H/C setup ran 7.2-7.3s@95+mph... People that drove it that had modded LS based cars said it "felt" like a mild bolt on car... One friend that was running low 8s @ 87ish mph said just by driving them he thought it would be a really good race, it wouldn't have been obviously.
I bought an 02 SLP Ws6 a few weeks ago... It has a lid and short throw. It has a very long list of kills with very few deaths (from cars pretty decently modded (cam/etc or turbo on 12+#s)). I am around other LS based cars and performance oriented cars on a regular basis (ls6 Ctsv, ls2 TBSS, H/C GT, 11 challenger RT, cam only 98 SS, turbo civic, bolt on 01 Cobra, the list goes on)... It has beat all of these cars, some pretty ugly races.
I'd say that isn't bad for a car much older than most, with the least amount of mods of anything it has raced. It kicks sideways hard in second and spins again in 3rd.. It impresses people that aren't use to 11 second and quicker cars.
I bought an 02 SLP Ws6 a few weeks ago... It has a lid and short throw. It has a very long list of kills with very few deaths (from cars pretty decently modded (cam/etc or turbo on 12+#s)). I am around other LS based cars and performance oriented cars on a regular basis (ls6 Ctsv, ls2 TBSS, H/C GT, 11 challenger RT, cam only 98 SS, turbo civic, bolt on 01 Cobra, the list goes on)... It has beat all of these cars, some pretty ugly races.
I'd say that isn't bad for a car much older than most, with the least amount of mods of anything it has raced. It kicks sideways hard in second and spins again in 3rd.. It impresses people that aren't use to 11 second and quicker cars.
11-05-2012, 02:25 AM
#28
From a dig up until around 80 it would be close, after that the LS1 would start coming around it.
From any type of roll the LS1 should start inching out and getting kinda ugly 100+mph.
I would say my blue car with nothing more than a lid/shorter stick would run low 13s@108+mph. Just a set of tires would have it in the 12s.
The cam only 98 SS I have raced numerous times pulls me around 3 from a dig (he runs nittos and I'm on street tires) and around 1.5 from a 20... From a 35 it is about dead even with me inching out up top and from a 50 I have a steady pull the entire run.
He ran 12.5-12.8s @ 106-108 in Bowling Green at the Fest.
I pull my buddies ls6 CTSv with a CAI/catback/shortthrow by about 3 cars from a 40 roll.
It all depends on the individual car.
From any type of roll the LS1 should start inching out and getting kinda ugly 100+mph.
I would say my blue car with nothing more than a lid/shorter stick would run low 13s@108+mph. Just a set of tires would have it in the 12s.
The cam only 98 SS I have raced numerous times pulls me around 3 from a dig (he runs nittos and I'm on street tires) and around 1.5 from a 20... From a 35 it is about dead even with me inching out up top and from a 50 I have a steady pull the entire run.
He ran 12.5-12.8s @ 106-108 in Bowling Green at the Fest.
I pull my buddies ls6 CTSv with a CAI/catback/shortthrow by about 3 cars from a 40 roll.
It all depends on the individual car.
11-05-2012, 10:00 AM
#30
The ls1 has a smooth power band that is deceptively quick. A manual trans car will feel a lot stronger than a stock auto.
If it has a lot of miles and is noisy the springs might have given out and ruined the cam too. Bent stock pushrods are also common from my experience.
If it has a lot of miles and is noisy the springs might have given out and ruined the cam too. Bent stock pushrods are also common from my experience.
11-05-2012, 03:17 PM
#31
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11-05-2012, 06:02 PM
#32
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I went from a 2000 GT (auto) to a M6 WS6 car, that had a filter and a flowmaster on it. And it felt like a rocket lol..Now it has a cam swap and other boltons. My valve train is a little noisy too. But a lot of cam swapped LS cars are noisy after you do a cam swap.
11-05-2012, 06:55 PM
#34
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Sounds like an LSA or LS7 swap will fix all your worries op. The beauty of these motors is the building block that they are, your options for building them and modding is practically unlimited.
Time to tear that motor apart and see what's going on in there.
Time to tear that motor apart and see what's going on in there.
11-05-2012, 07:15 PM
#35
Yes, its true, the car is really bad about letting you know how fast you are really going. I kept thinking mine was in the low 9's. I was surprised.
before you know it
300,400,600,800,1000+
goes by fast. these cars come alive.
my fav mod was my stall/gears. makes an auto an animal. especially at the track.
followed by FI
and camshaft.
cubes
heads
DR's
all good things that will really make the car purr.
but mid 8's or 13's on average is not a bad place to start out at on street tires considering the cars age, and condition.
about 600-700 dollars on a cam pack
and 400-600 on a stall (PTC, YANK, CIRCLE D) will go a long *** ways.
before you know it
300,400,600,800,1000+
goes by fast. these cars come alive.
my fav mod was my stall/gears. makes an auto an animal. especially at the track.
followed by FI
and camshaft.
cubes
heads
DR's
all good things that will really make the car purr.
but mid 8's or 13's on average is not a bad place to start out at on street tires considering the cars age, and condition.
about 600-700 dollars on a cam pack
and 400-600 on a stall (PTC, YANK, CIRCLE D) will go a long *** ways.
11-05-2012, 08:01 PM
#36
Bought my car off a buddy. Slp lid, long tubes, midpipe, muffler and that was it. Ran 12.x at 111mph on street tires. Slowed down on 275/60/15's because it has the factory 3.23 and 28" tall tires don't work. Car ran 11.5x at 125mph on a 125 shot. No tune. Felt like a turd from a rolling start on motor or on spray.
Stall really woke it up afterwards.
Stall really woke it up afterwards.
11-05-2012, 08:13 PM
#37
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Two different shops said the noise was normal, but I wonder sometimes. It has 66k miles. I think bent pushrods on an auto are rare but not impossible. One day I'll tear it apart but not anytime soon. I'll just keep an eye on my oil consumption and check for shavings in my oil just in case in the meantime. I think a tight street stall is my next major purchase, but power adders are inevitable, no matter what I told my wife about not modding the hell out of it 
.
. Last edited by Marc3.4V6; 11-05-2012 at 08:19 PM.
11-06-2012, 02:39 PM
#38
My personal experience: It was everything I hoped for. It was my first real big purchase. I had driven and owned a few of my dads old cars. I remember the first time I hit the throttle with intent. It was the fastest vehicle I had been in up to that point.
Did that feeling last? Not forever. Such is life: at some point most of us say 300hp is awesome! Then we think 400hp is enough. And it goes on and on.
The LS1 was a rocket in its time. Sure there are faster cars now - again, such is life
Enjoy your WS6 and stick around. There are many ways to make these things even faster. Just depends on how much you want to pay to play.
Did that feeling last? Not forever. Such is life: at some point most of us say 300hp is awesome! Then we think 400hp is enough. And it goes on and on.
The LS1 was a rocket in its time. Sure there are faster cars now - again, such is life
Enjoy your WS6 and stick around. There are many ways to make these things even faster. Just depends on how much you want to pay to play.
11-06-2012, 03:12 PM
#40
TECH Resident
Does anyone still offer a basic forced induction kit that is CARB approved? If so, I would recommed that bolted to your stock engine.
If you are insistant on staying NA, then I would do ported heads along with that mild smog cam (upgraded heads could make more power even with a stock cam). Such a small cam by itself isn't going to be worth much in the way of gains so I would definitely address the heads as well, but your NA power level will still be far below comparable builds that have LT headers and bigger cams.
If you are insistant on staying NA, then I would do ported heads along with that mild smog cam (upgraded heads could make more power even with a stock cam). Such a small cam by itself isn't going to be worth much in the way of gains so I would definitely address the heads as well, but your NA power level will still be far below comparable builds that have LT headers and bigger cams.
the STS rear mount kit is CARB approved... they have it stamped on the intercooler pipe also with the whole badge n stuff