Firehawk2001

My car is a 2001 Firehawk M6 145,000 miles and the rods and lifters started knocking yesterday. It still runs but it doens't sound very healthy. The shop says I need a new engine and want to go with a jasper. So far the initial estimate is $6000. That includes new radiator and plugs etc., parts that I don't think I am going to have to get. I bought the used car with an engine warranty but it only covers up to $3000 total. Does anyone have any suggestions because I don't have much extra cash to put into it. I just need to get it running again. I read on here that the 5.3 and 6.0 LS truck engines would bolt in and I was wondering if my ecu controller and manifolds etc., would just bolt up. or whatever and be closer to a $3000 job.

Thanks

WS6nTX

iTrader: (1)

$3k and you cant fix it? You dont 'need' a new, upgraded motor. If a warranty covers $3k max, that should cover to replace whatevers broken.
I paid just over that for a fully built LT1...

what exactly is the shop saying is wrong? sounds like they're trying to swindle you. Get a few estimates to replace the broken internals and have the insurance do it. I dont see that being over $3k.

Firehawk2001

Well they havent opened the engine up. They just listened to the outside noise and said possibly stuck lifters and a rod knocking. I took it to 4 places and thats all any of them would say without tearing into it. I think this last shop I took it to likes to replace with jasper engines more than rebuild. I can take it somewhere else. They are just faxing in documents to make sure the warranty will pay.

So theres one vote for a rebuild.

Thanks

99FormulaM6

iTrader: (21)

You can get a TSP short block for like 3500. Spend a little out of pocket for new lifters and other misc items and have a way better motor than one from Jasper. Or use the 6k quoted for the Jasper and get an assemble long block from TSP or somewhere else.

2000Hawk#317

iTrader: (3)

honestly you could rebuild your own motor for around 1000. I built mine in the garage. I did have the crank re-surfaced and the blocked bored a little but i spun a main bearing. if you lived close, i would rebuild your motor for 3k. i did everything the right way. plasti gauge and all. the torque to yeild is the only thing that scares me but it has to be done.

Jay Gadsby

iTrader: (3)

I would also go the DIY route. Just the way I prefer to do things. Save a ton of money, and gain a ton of experience.

WS6nTX

iTrader: (1)

it boils down to what you want out of your car.
if you want a fun dd or a lightly modded car, a rebuild with quality parts is smart, and cheaper by far. Especially if like 00hawk said, you do it yourself and learn at the same time.

if you want to see this as an opportunity to get a kick *** quality build for great power with the insurance picking up half the cost...thats another route.

the other question is, will the insurance ONLY cover OEM parts or will they simply give you a check for $3k to generally replace the motor (regardless of whats going in)?

GSE3WS6

i vote rebuild even if you didn't want to go the DIY route having a shop do it probably wouldn't be much more than the insurance money

garygnu

you can find 5.3 and 6.0 for $1500 and less,get the correct year that has a 24 tooth relucter wheel on the crank.consider a 383 rotating assembly from TSP for $1700 ,shop around for a local engine machine shop for machining.you will need new lifters ,lifter trays ,oil pump,timing chain ,and rebuild the rocker arms .check out Texas Speed for parts and costs.the 5.3 and 6.0 will require a mail order tune.

Firehawk2001

Update. I had a shop install a brand new GM LS1 Crate engine in. Runs Great.

RockinWs6

Are you sure, GM discontinued the LS1 crate engine a long time ago.

rxrom

iTrader: (2)

Don't know much about engines but wouldn't replacing the heads fix a broken rocker or valve?