Microtech82

Yeah the cruisers with the straight pipes are ridiculously loud. I don't want to be THAT loud haha So the LTs/ory/cutout won't be as loud as them, correct? At least with the stock cam?

justin hover

not at all

DeLaRosa25

iTrader: (10)

I got mine last year NEW from a sponsor for $332 shipped

Contact LM Performance to see if they are doing any specials for BBK or ls1tech with the purchase of the BBK kit. I got in on a promo to use on the website so which is why I got it so cheap

Found it

http://www.lmperformance.com/78804/.html

or if you want coated

http://www.lmperformance.com/19545/.html


LMPBBK <--promo code for 10% off , would bring the chrome version to $359.99 shipped, or the coated to $449.99 shipped

I received my LT's/ORY very quick!,


If you are ditching the rear O2's then you will obvisouly need to plug the hole..You can buy a toyota drain plug for the two holes and be done with it

Check out Dorman 65220. Its M18x1.5, same as an 02 Sensor bung, and they are cheap. That's the plug you would need...I just took the plugs from work last year haha, we had tons.

justin hover

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...ystem-chrome-/ $389-free shipping..close enough

Microtech82

WOW I'm definitely going to jump on that deal! I read that some people don't have many fitment issues with the BBK headers. How was your install? How are they holding up so far?

CoreyD

iTrader: (9)

Check craigslist! Some guy was selling some brand new bbks and ory for only 250

DeLaRosa25

iTrader: (10)

Very good fitment. Amazing actually. Slid right in, no banging the headers to make room. Holding up very well. For the money cannot beat it. I am more than satisfied with my purchase.

ldyzluvdis06

iTrader: (24)

i had to bang in my passenger floor board, but for the price im happy. for o2 sensor plugs, i just cut the wires off of my o2s and placed the sensors back in

Microtech82

Will the ory slide in with the stock catback? I couldn't find any info on the outlet size on the link you provided. Some of the other sites showing the BBK LT/ORY combo say it has a 2.5" outlet. Isn't the factory catback 3"?

justin hover

The factory is 2.75"...I'm not 100% on bbk but yeah..I thought I read a 2.5" ypipe. Or collectors or some ****. It's easier to just get some pacesetters or tsp with their 3"y imo. Duals better yet

Microtech82

Oh believe me, I'd get the true duals if it was in my budget range

Microtech82

I noticed a true dual setup by Phab on eBay for less than $400. Anyone have any experience with this product? Looks like a nice x-pipe but I'm wondering if it will mate to the LTs correctly. The x-pipe inlets look like they run perfectly straight. Doesnt the drivers-side header kinda point at an angle and not straight back?

Blue Bandit

I got the bbk's on my 98 z and they fit awesome! I put in new motor mounts just to be sure as I read too many header fit problems with worn out mounts. I also have a b&b catback and the combo isn't that loud unless your in WOT. The y pipe fit flush with the intermidiate pipe but I slipped a sleeve over the 2 and cured the problem. BBKs are the best bang for the $$$ IMO if you don't need to worry about emission or have freinds in the e-test biz.

Microtech82

Due to my son being born two weeks early - and having to spend 5 days/nights at the hospital - I haven't had a chance to follow up on this thread until tonight.

I ordered the BBK combo from LMPerformance Friday night! Hopefully the LTs/ORY get to my door soon...I'd like to get those bad boys in the car this weekend.

Thank you, everyone, for all the input and helping me get a great deal on a spankin' new set! This will be my first REAL mod I've done to the car so I'm way stoked to get er done. I mean, I've done the cutout and lid and FRA mod but....yeah, wouldn't really call those big mods or bolt ons. The lid....jeeezus what a ****ing PITA for something so simple. Trying to get the damn MAF to slide into the lid - even heating up the plastic with a blow dryer - almost gave me a damn hernia. From what I've read, getting the old exhaust out is going to be another test of patience, but I figure my torch and sawzall will take care of any stuck/broken bolts.

Last minute questions:
1. The BBK LTs and O2 sensors... Just want to make sure I have everything I need. Rear O2s will be deleted, so I just unplug those and forget about them, right? And all I need for the front sensors is the extensions for the wires? I can just screw the front O2s into the collectors, hook them up to the wires, and then leave it at that...right?

2. I'm definitely getting a tune after the install but I'm wondering how not having a tune right away will affect the car... I mean, I've read that deleting the rear O2s and the AIR system will cause the engine light to come on until a tune is done to wipe the error codes, but what - if any - effects will the deletes have on the car while waiting for the tune? Say I get the install done this weekend but can't get the tune done until the following weekend.....will the car be ok to drive to and from work during that untuned week?

This was a slight headache for me while planning my mods...strict emissions here in Albuquerque and I was NOT looking forward to forking out the extra $$$ for a catted-y and also having to worry about cam selection. After a week of sniffing around, however, I found someone who will take care of those pesky emission tests

wicked383lt1

Make sure to buy poly motor mounts. As far as it being to loud I personally like the sound. Its not to bad.

BigMac76

iTrader: (5)

Congrats on the birth of your son, amazing isn't it!

So, no worries about doing a tune if you're pretty much stock. I have a few mods done to my car and still running without a tune. Only thing you'd have to do a tune for would be for the rear o2 delete. Other than that you really don't need one. You could probably get some rear o2 sims to get rid of the ses light in place of the tune. I'd personally save the tune for when you get a cam or other more noticeable mods. The car will run a bit more rich, but that's about it honestly. Won't harm the car until you get the sims installed.

I am running Pacesetter LT's, flowmaster catback, slip lid and bellows, tb coolant bypass and other minor bolt ons and have no issues at all. Was even verified as being good by a local lsx tuner in my area.

Microtech82

Exactly the response I was hoping to hear! Thanks! And thanks for the congrats on my son! Can't wait until the little guy is old enough to help his dad work on cars!

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Noticed you wanted to get the exhaust done but since you are an A4, a stall will make a huge difference in performance gains. I did the stall first and then the headers and cam after, I would do it again but probably get the stall before I had gotten the catback. Your sound level will be real loud and with heads/cam/stall with those 2.73s.....ouch.

Microtech82

So I'm actually torn with the stall right now...

I've read, pretty much everywhere, that the stall is a MUST for cam swaps because of drivability issues such as bogging/pushing depending on idle settings. The tranny and rear end both have 130k+ on them and I'm apprehensive about putting a stall in until I have the $$$ to rebuild the tranny and go with a stronger rear. Would it be possible to still do a swap to maybe a 224/224 cam and hold off on the stall, just do something ghetto like throw the car into neutral at stop lights to address the bogging issue? Or would that be just as hard on the tranny because of the constant change from N to D and vice versa?

My goal with the car is to have something mean sounding with a good bite to match the growl but still retain decent drivability. I don't plan on racing it at the strip so I don't really need every 0.1 second that I can get. Besides, we are a mile in altitude here and 1/4 times are a joke at the strip....stock LS1s are lucky to pull low 14s here. So I don't plan on making the car radical...just would like to be above average

DeLaRosa25

iTrader: (10)

Get the stall first. Hold off on the cam.