Microtech82

I'm just concerned about the old tranny/rear. I'd hate to spend the money for stall/install just to have the drivetrain go out shortly after.....

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Trans should be fine if it was regularly maintained (fluid/filter changes). When you get a stall you always get a cooler as well to keep the temps down since heat is the main killer of auto transmissions.

The reason why you get a cam after the stall is because a bigger cam will fight against your brakes when you try to stop with a stock converter.

Microtech82

See that is where my concerns lie... When I got the car it already had 127k miles on it and I don't know how well the previous owner(s) took care of it. It might not have ever even gotten a tune up, for all I know. It already makes a weird whip crack noise from the rear if I let it go 1st to 2nd during WOT. I when I do go WOT I always back off the throttle ever so slightly as it nears redline so that it shifts slightly early so that it doesn't make that horrid noise. That's why I want to replace the tranny/rear when I've saved up enough $$$ and avoid putting in anything that's going to put sudden enormous loads on the drivetrain.

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Ok well you usually want to build the car from the ground up to handle the power of the motor, why don't you just use the header money towards the trans and rear, that way you'll be able to deliver the power correctly and reliably to the rear wheels.... just a suggestion.

DeLaRosa25

iTrader: (10)

You have an A4, you're not going to be blowing the rear end as quickly as the M6 guys..unless you doing some hellashish launching.

Get a stall,tranny cooler, flush/fill..your good to go. Get a torque converter seal also if you plan on getting a stall. Good thing to replace. Should only be like $8

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Don't flush the trans especially since the fluid hasn't been changed regularly. Just change the fluid and filter.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Agreed.

Unless you are going to live at the track, the stock 10-bolt can still have a long life behind and A4 with a stall. I would not consider the rear to be a required upgrade for an A4 street car, even for mild track use at H/C power levels.

Microtech82

Yeah I read somewhere on the forum that flushing the fluid can be disastrous if it hasn't been regularly changed. Something about the old gunky crap holding it together at this point?

Microtech82

Yes the car will always be 100% street. How will DRs affect the rear, though, with a stall? I spin the bejeesus out of the street tires as it is right now with mild launches. DRs would be a must with a stall, right?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

Yes DRs are a must or you'll run through street tires pretty quick, depending on how your foot is on the go pedal. And yes flushing the trans will remove all the gunk holding it together if it hasn't been regularly serviced.

Blackpanther99

iTrader: (8)

I agree with him^

You will need DRs! Lol As mentioned on this page your 10bolt will hold good if its a 100% street car, if you start racing from digs whether its the street or the strip dont expect your 10bolt to hold long. Make sure you have no wheel hop issues either, thats a big factor as well.

Microtech82

So this is where it becomes a "sacrifice one thing for another" issue, right? I will see great performance gains from a stall - and a stall is a must before a cam swap - but if I want to get any traction I will need DRs... DRs + stall + dig = busted rear? With a stall and DRs I'm pretty much limited to rolls, right?

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

The rear on autos last a lot longer than manuals. Unless you are running 10s, your rear will be fine for now.

DeLaRosa25

iTrader: (10)

Just do it

Microtech82

Haha yeah ok, I guess I am sounding like a little ***** The stall will be my next big purchase.

Well, after UPS dicked me around for a week and a half I finally got my BBKs from LMPerformance. Can't complain about delivery, since shipping was free. I must say these are some nice looking headers! I just got my o2 extensions and some new wires/plugs today so I'm gonna throw these bad boys in Saturday and let you guys know how it turned out.

Thanks again for all the help and suggestions and for helping me find a good deal on the headers!

DeLaRosa25

iTrader: (10)

Are you going to ditch the rear O2's? No need for em. Few post back I mentioned what plugs you need to plug the holes.

Microtech82

Yeah, ditching them. I've been too busy with my newborn to really go hunting for plugs and the LTs are going in day after tomorrow, so I'm just going to stuff the wideband holes with the disconnected o2s. That should hold up for a couple of days until I get a chance to go get some actual plugs.

A mechanic buddy was telling me yesterday not to really get on the throttle until the AIR and rear o2 delete has been addressed by a tune. He said the car will be in "limp mode" and I could mess it up. Was he just blowing smoke up my ***, or should I wait to get a tune before openin' her up??

KingJacobo

Let us know how the new exhaust sounds..I'd imagine Lt's and a cutout will be LOUD.

Congrats on the son!

Roarin_8

iTrader: (5)

The AIR doesn't do anything after warming the CATS up, since you won't have CATS that won't affect anything. The front 02s monitor your air/fuel, those are the important ones, the rear 02s will throw a code since they aren't reading what the air is after the CATS but that wouldn't harm anything IIRC. Now if your front 02s were going bad and needed to be replaced, that would be the time NOT to get into higher rpms.

Microtech82

Thanks! He's a little squeaker!

After all this awesome help I'll definitely let everyone know how the install goes and the reason I started this thread: just how friggin LOUD this setup will be

Considering the potential ear-blasting, I'm beginning to wonder if I'll ever be able to enjoy my sound system anymore. Maybe sell it and use the money to buy an electric cutout valve from TSP???? *chin stroke*