raysadude

iTrader: (11)

while i agree with this, i think if he only does roll racing then the stock 10 bolts should be ok. so unless he does dig racing all the time, then he could put the money somewhere else for power adders and fixing stuffs.

TImmy_Jones

iTrader: (4)

Woah Woah Woah

Newer sports cars? You want to run with newer sports cars? How? In a straight line or actually with them?

Give Sam Strano a call for your suspension needs, because your big boat doesn't handle very well right now. Needs new springs, struts, sways, etc. Then stop by a sponsors shop for some brakes. Then get yourself some nice, wide 17 or 18 inch wheels with sticky tires. At this point you should have a car that can handle with the modern cars and almost keep up....then let's talk heads/cam/bolt ons to really blow them away.

ER18X

Well I have aftermarket sways on the front and rear and also 275/40R/17 Cooper Zeon-A tires

1320Chicken

iTrader: (4)

All in what you want to do and what you want to keep up with.

I think a solid daily driver that runs mid 11s and can really hang the corners is doable. It's going to take a decent chunk of change and a lot of research.

prokilllsx

yes it can be done

ER18X

I was wondering also about getting forged internals?

WS6_Veteran

iTrader: (6)

I have put about 5K into my WS6 over the past year and a half I have owned it. Ontop of paying off my 8K loan. I haven't even had a chance to touch internals yet. Although these cars are nice when they have miles like yours its time for some major maintenance to help keep that potential. So far I have done whats in my Signature and a few minor mods and its pushed around 5K trying to get the car back to tip top shape. My clutch alone was 700 and my tranny showed minor signs of wear and tear so I took to a tranny shop while I did my ls7 clutch and the 3/4 synchro and third gear was completely shot. Another 800 bucks down the drain. The mechanic couldn't believe the car was moving he showed me the gears but I could only get the slightest grind when I shifted into 4th and i had to turn everything off and be absolutely quiet. After fluids and a master clutch cylinder too it was pushing almost 1700 bucks for a clutch and tranny repair. So depending how the previous owner treated it getting the car back to good solid condition to handle the horses can cost a pretty penny. One of my greatest mods so far was true duals I noticed you still have a Y. After my duals I noticed a totally different beast! So I would look into that.

So yeah work on suspension and getting the car squared away like mentioned ^. Then see whats left over with that budget.

KingPin1094

iTrader: (12)

Well this is what i am doing:

LQ4 block bored over
forged 408 from TSP
Melling high pressure pump
Comp Cams double roller timing chain
Link bar lifters
LS3 heads
LS3 intake
FAST 92
60lb injectors.
the car has small headers now, but will eventually move to larger 1 7/8" ones
Pat G spec'd cam ground by EPS

On all that i spent about 5k, granted some of the stuff did come with the car when i bought it, and i was able to sell some stuff to make 1k of that back. All in all i should be near 500whp pretty cheaply

ER18X

So I have another question if I wanted to use my stock heads what kind of cam could I get? Or if I wanted to do an intake heads and cam what exactly would my parts list be? Would I have to send anything off to be bored? Would I use the stock head internals I'm very interested in knowing all of this.

94 White T/A

I'm thinking of doing a TSP 224r cam or 228r or a 228/232 for my stock bottom end/heads for now. Just kind of depends where you want to start and how much room to grow. any of those cams will run good and with heads they will make good power. Even with stock heads and with suspension mods you will be ahead of most cars out there. A H/C/I combo with suspension should be relatively hard to beat

ER18X

Does a stock trans am have a 12 bolt rear end? I counted the bolt around mine and there are 10??

ER18X

Nevermind it's 10

NOS LS1

iTrader: (3)

Spray the Bitch with a 150 shot of N20 , Nitrous Oxide , Laughing Gas, Giggle Juice !
You will blow away most cars...

Just make sure you have a good transmission with a shift kit !

ER18X

I'm now looking for a good clutch an shifter to put in the 6 speed any suggestions?

Midnight02

iTrader: (8)

Welcome to the board. This place is a wonderful collection of knowledge and the search feature will answer a bunch of the basic questions. Take the time to read other threads to better understand what your options are and how other's experiences will help guide you down the right path to meet your goals.

First and foremost, what's your ultimate goal for the car? Street car vs. track car (drag strip or road course) vs. mixed use car.

Before we start throwing a bunch of power at it, here are a couple items to be mindful of:

1. The stock rear end sucks and this is an expensive problem to fix. Sure, you can rebuild a 10-bolt relatively cheap, however that still doesn't fix the problem that it's not strong enough to take regular abuse at the track. It's OK to decide not to do anything about this, however do it with the understanding this will eventually become an issue down the road.
2. The stock clutch also sucks. There are a number of great options here to upgrade that either via the GM LS7 clutch or aftermarket upgrades. I would place this pretty high up on your list. Would be cool making big power, but it's going to suck when you can't shift consistently at high RPM.

Once you decide how you want to address the items above, let's look at power.

To answer your most recent two questions:

1. Good clutch. Well, the LS7 clutch is a cost-effective upgrade to the stock clutch. It drives like stock, just holds the power better. The downsides are that it's heavy, potential conflicts with adjustible master cylinders and will struggle if you throw a ton of power at it and/or launch hard at the track. Personally, I had an LS7 and went to a McLeod RST dual once the LS7 was toast. Added a lightweight flywheel and love it! The clutch has handled everything I've thrown at it so far (630+ rwhp on spray). There are plenty of other good options out there, so research this further before you decide what's right for you.
2. Shifters: I love my Pro 5.0. It's a short, firm throw when combined with a short stick, and has a great feel. The 2nd-3rd shift is almost linear so that's a nice enhancement over the stock unit. Others have had good success with the BMR Ripper as well as the Hurst units. It all comes down to personal preference.