Purchasing an LS - Advice Please
#21
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Oh...And one more thing: On the Camaro vs. T/A question, it really depends upon taste, as well as a few practical differences, too. The T/A is a bit more sporty and probably has a few more fans. The Camaro is more conservative looking, even in SS trim.
As mentioned above, the T/A's have issues with the headlight gears, and all F-bodies go through power window motors, especially the passenger side. Both cars have cheap plastic interiors, but IMHO, the Camaro's interior looks a little less cheap and also seems to have less problems with dash cracks (this according to Jim at CalSpeed, who parts out several of both cars a year). The T/A has a more sporty interior, but to me it, it just looks cheap, especially in the very common light grey. The Camaro dash and cluster setup look like something out of a Monte Carlo or even a Chevy minivan from the same era, but the low-gloss graphite (98-99) or ebony (00-02) dash plastic seems to hide a bit more of the cheapness.
The good news for you is, both cars are an absolute hoot to drive, and IMHO, you simply can't get a more fun and more powerful car in this price range, no matter which one you choose.
And I speak from having owned 3 of them!
As mentioned above, the T/A's have issues with the headlight gears, and all F-bodies go through power window motors, especially the passenger side. Both cars have cheap plastic interiors, but IMHO, the Camaro's interior looks a little less cheap and also seems to have less problems with dash cracks (this according to Jim at CalSpeed, who parts out several of both cars a year). The T/A has a more sporty interior, but to me it, it just looks cheap, especially in the very common light grey. The Camaro dash and cluster setup look like something out of a Monte Carlo or even a Chevy minivan from the same era, but the low-gloss graphite (98-99) or ebony (00-02) dash plastic seems to hide a bit more of the cheapness.
The good news for you is, both cars are an absolute hoot to drive, and IMHO, you simply can't get a more fun and more powerful car in this price range, no matter which one you choose.
And I speak from having owned 3 of them!
Vala
#22
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Something to keep in mind with the GTO is owners are already having difficulty getting parts for them (BCM's for instance). They need suspension work immediately (perhaps finding one that's already been modded would be a good idea), and they are other annoying issues such as leaking inside the rear footwell, rear seat stitching, etc. Granted, some of the stuff isn't necessarily going to effect its mechanicals, but just some things to be aware of. I fortunately sold mine before anything like that popped up (except the suspension; radius rod and strut mount bushings, sagging springs, etc.).
#23
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I may look back into the GTO's again. My wife likes them a lot because they are very nice inside. I have heard nothing but good things about the LS2.
Speaking of CEL's, I have come across a couple that I looked at and had CEL's at idle. Just a sensor, or possibly something more serious?
Vala
Speaking of CEL's, I have come across a couple that I looked at and had CEL's at idle. Just a sensor, or possibly something more serious?
Vala
I wouldn't be to worried but just putting that out there.
For the LS1 and 100k, I've had 4 LS1 cars, all over 100k miles, no engine failures. My old one I used to beat on just came up for sale on craigslist with 150k on it. In my opinion they are the best bang for the buck
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Good advice in here so far.
The CTS-V issues have been covered, so no point in rehashing that.
An LS2 GTO would be a great option. Prices are coming down nicely on them, and I'd pick one up in a second if my Z28 wasn't paid for (I like having no car payment). The seats alone in those cars make them worth the test drive. In my opinion, they are the best seats GM has used in a sport/muscle car to date.
When you're test driving an F-body car, there are a couple things you should take notice of. The obvious - make sure it shifts well at commuting speeds and at more spirited speeds, look for any CELs that need to be dealt with, and . Listen for a whine in the rear end. They are the weak links on the drivetrain and will be a costly upgrade (if it breaks, upgrade it - that's the rule on these cars). Some ticking from the engine area is, unfortunately, common. These vehicles are known for piston slap, especially on a cold startup. As long as it isn't excessive you're fine. Last but not least, take pics of the engine bay, the underside of the car, and try to get an idle/exhaust audio clip. I'm betting good money if you post that stuff on here people will tell you exactly what was done to the car.
Be patient, enjoy the pursuit, and happy hunting.
The CTS-V issues have been covered, so no point in rehashing that.
An LS2 GTO would be a great option. Prices are coming down nicely on them, and I'd pick one up in a second if my Z28 wasn't paid for (I like having no car payment). The seats alone in those cars make them worth the test drive. In my opinion, they are the best seats GM has used in a sport/muscle car to date.
When you're test driving an F-body car, there are a couple things you should take notice of. The obvious - make sure it shifts well at commuting speeds and at more spirited speeds, look for any CELs that need to be dealt with, and . Listen for a whine in the rear end. They are the weak links on the drivetrain and will be a costly upgrade (if it breaks, upgrade it - that's the rule on these cars). Some ticking from the engine area is, unfortunately, common. These vehicles are known for piston slap, especially on a cold startup. As long as it isn't excessive you're fine. Last but not least, take pics of the engine bay, the underside of the car, and try to get an idle/exhaust audio clip. I'm betting good money if you post that stuff on here people will tell you exactly what was done to the car.
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#26
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Both cars have cheap plastic interiors, but IMHO, the Camaro's interior looks a little less cheap and also seems to have less problems with dash cracks (this according to Jim at CalSpeed, who parts out several of both cars a year). The T/A has a more sporty interior, but to me it, it just looks cheap, especially in the very common light grey. The Camaro dash and cluster setup look like something out of a Monte Carlo or even a Chevy minivan from the same era, but the low-gloss graphite (98-99) or ebony (00-02) dash plastic seems to hide a bit more of the cheapness.
The good news for you is, both cars are an absolute hoot to drive, and IMHO, you simply can't get a more fun and more powerful car in this price range, no matter which one you choose.
And I speak from having owned 3 of them!
#27
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Thanks for the advice again guys.
Thanks for the info on the LS2 and the GTO's. That is the kind of stuff I want to know about. I just don't think they are for me anyways, so it looks like I have made up my mind on that one.
As far as the LS1's with over 100k on them, I can believe what you guys mean about it being solid even after then. I just wanted to make sure I had plenty of input on that. My buddy bought a 98 C5 with a tune and exhaust. It had over 100k on it. I'll never forget driving behind him and seeing flames shoot out of his pipes passing someone on the interstate. Aggressive tune or whatever, it was a neat thing to see. Also watched him beat down a Cobra later that night (in which his horn got stuck on the 3rd honk and proceeded to beat the Cobra with a horn-theme song), it was pretty funny.
I also know a guy that tore down his LS1 with 155k on it, and said it still looked like the day they drove it off the lot in the internals. That's where I got the "100k is the break in period" but I just wanted to verify that here.
I am eye-balling this pretty little SS with 24k on it right now. The only thing that I don't like is they have a picture of the dash as the car is idling (all other gauges are where they should be) and there is a CEL on. Ehh.
Oh, and I know about the Cobra’s on gas... knew a guy.. got a solid 8-9 MPG with that bad boy. No thank you! Of course he had 690rwhp so maybe it was justifiable.![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Vala
Thanks for the info on the LS2 and the GTO's. That is the kind of stuff I want to know about. I just don't think they are for me anyways, so it looks like I have made up my mind on that one.
As far as the LS1's with over 100k on them, I can believe what you guys mean about it being solid even after then. I just wanted to make sure I had plenty of input on that. My buddy bought a 98 C5 with a tune and exhaust. It had over 100k on it. I'll never forget driving behind him and seeing flames shoot out of his pipes passing someone on the interstate. Aggressive tune or whatever, it was a neat thing to see. Also watched him beat down a Cobra later that night (in which his horn got stuck on the 3rd honk and proceeded to beat the Cobra with a horn-theme song), it was pretty funny.
I also know a guy that tore down his LS1 with 155k on it, and said it still looked like the day they drove it off the lot in the internals. That's where I got the "100k is the break in period" but I just wanted to verify that here.
I am eye-balling this pretty little SS with 24k on it right now. The only thing that I don't like is they have a picture of the dash as the car is idling (all other gauges are where they should be) and there is a CEL on. Ehh.
Oh, and I know about the Cobra’s on gas... knew a guy.. got a solid 8-9 MPG with that bad boy. No thank you! Of course he had 690rwhp so maybe it was justifiable.
![Happy](https://ls1tech.com/forums/images/smilies/LS1Tech/gr_stretch.gif)
Vala