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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:48 AM
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Default Subframe Connectors

Hey guys, I have heard that these things make a world of difference on a stock car (close to stock anyway), and I cant decide between 2 pt. and 3pt., also not sure about bolt in vs. weld in. Will the weld in SFC's be ok with all the flex and movement of the car? I am slightly worried about the welds becoming weak and possibly breaking. And as far as how many contact points, if I am just driving it on the street/for fun, will 2 be enough. Don't plan on going to the drag strip really. Thanks ahead of time.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 08:53 AM
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if you find a reputable shop or person to weld them in, then they should last forever. Weld In are usually preferred to bolt in.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 10:26 AM
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You can get the bolt on one an then get somebody to weld them on after. That is how I did mine but I weld mine on.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 12:08 PM
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Welds don't break over time if done right....
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 12:47 PM
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Weld in are the fine , I've had mine for years and have never broken a weld and I welded them in myself ,most of the ones I've seen the control arm bolts go thru the back of them and hold them also
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 01:00 PM
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I noticed more improvement from bolt-in 3pts than I did from weld-in 2pts, though this was on two different cars so the comparsion was not ideal. You can always weld the bolt-ins for maximum bond. FWIW, I have never bothered to weld my SLP bolt-ins, and a decade later they have never come loose - although I did modify the installation process to improve the mounting.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 01:36 PM
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I have 2-point bolt-in on my '02; I had weld-in 2-point on my '00. I don't notice a difference between the two. At the end of the day, though, I'd go weld-in (the only reason I didn't this time is due to not having access to anyone I trusted to do it).

There are also people who believe they don't help. To them I say they make great a great jacking rail
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 02:43 PM
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My car was T-Top and I went with the 3 point.....huge difference. Especially pulling into parking lots/driveways with elevation changes. Im building another fbody ttop car and will be going with 3 point again
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 07:46 PM
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Get 3points and welded.
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Old Aug 4, 2013 | 07:59 PM
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The other advantage of 3 point is the added protection in a side impact that they provide.
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Old Aug 7, 2013 | 08:05 PM
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3 pt weld in it is! Haha I have ttops as well and I have heard from friends that the difference is pretty noticeable. Brand? I mean since they are basically steel bars I'm thinking I don't necessarily need the most expensive ones. Suggestions? I was thinking SLP
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:09 AM
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UMI's 3 points
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:41 AM
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3 pt weld-ins and a good welder and you're good.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 01:57 AM
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Hey guys, not intending to jack the thread but my T/A has 2 point weld ins from the Previous owner and I want 3 point weld ins. What would be the best way to take the 2 points off?
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 02:07 AM
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gotta cut/grind through the welds
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 02:08 AM
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Yep...
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 02:43 AM
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That is how I did mine but I weld mine on.




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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 02:52 AM
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Originally Posted by s/c'd cav
gotta cut/grind through the welds
That's what I figured. That will be fun.
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 02:56 AM
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yup that it will

other choice is keep the existing connectors , and have a shop add on to them to make the 3rd points
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Old Aug 8, 2013 | 03:19 AM
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Honestly, if you're planning a cage in the car for racing later on, you can get away with the 2 point since that helps to stiffen up the chassis a bit. Not the same but helps.
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