Sunset2002SSvert

Gang,

First timer to LS1 so please excuse my ignorance. I recently bought a 2002 SS and wanted to change the oil. The previous owner did not have the car long enough to change the oil and does not know what the previous owner used. Can I begin using synthetic not knowing what is in it now? Or vice versa?

Thanks for the help!

666ws6

iTrader: (3)

Yes, you can start using synthetic without worry.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Just as an FYI, I ran Mobil1 5w30 in my LS1 cars for the longest time. I decided I would do the same when I purchased my current SS in 2012 with 65k miles. Unfortunately, it quickly developed a leak at the rear main. While this is bound to happen no matter what, it's accelerated with synthetics. I only mention this for you to keep in mind that age of the seals has affects them just as mileage does. I'm personally switching to Valvoline 20w50 VR1 conventional when I change the oil in the coming weeks in hopes to put off changing the rear seal

Sunset2002SSvert

Thanks guys. So, if I decide to go conventional, is it okay even though synthetic may be in the car now? That is my fear. I have heard you can't switch back from synthetic to conventional.

LS-ONE_DAY

On a somewhat related note, my 2002 Taurus DOHC has 197,000 miles on it. It is starting to burn oil, about 2-2.5 quarts every 5,000 miles. I've been using synthetic blend CAM2 Pro oil...Could switching to pure conventional oil (possibly thicker than recommended which is 5w20) help with that or does that only help for leaks not for burning it? There is some oil residue spots on the valve covers and oil pan too but I heard it isn't enough to be the problem.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

This is a junk rumor that has no facts to support it. I've read this on the internet before and have no idea where it started. You could switch back and forth with every change if you wanted to.

FWIW, I bought my '02 with 70k miles on it. I have no idea what sort of oil was used previously, but I immediately switched it over to M1 0W40, which is the synthetic oil that I use in every LS1 I own, and it did not develop any leaks nor have any issues at all. It does have a minor leak at the pan now, but that started 5+ years later.

Regardless of which oil you use, gaskets will eventually wear and leaks will develop...this is far more common now that the newest of these cars is 12 years old. If there are any gaskets that are marginal or just starting to weep with conventional oil, the leak may worsen with synthetic. It's a better lubricant that will work its way into places (and find leak paths) that the conventional wouldn't have as easily. The synthetic didn't "create" the leak, just found the path to a marginal point more easily (and/or cleaned gunk out of the way that was preventing the leak). If the engine is sealed tight with healthy gaskets, synthetic will not leak nor create leaks.

Sunset2002SSvert

Thanks RPM WS6! I was more fearful of just residue from synthetic being in the engine after a change to conventional and causing issues. Dumb I know, just did not want to mess the engine up after one week of ownership!

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

This is a good point. Regardless of my switch to synthetic, the rear main would have began to leak -- the synthetic merely accelerated how soon I noticed it. Considering the newest of these vehicles is now 14 years old, one would be crazy not to toss in a new rear main seal if the transmission is ever out.

6SPDBIRD

wow great thread this has answered many questions about synthetic that i had as well...thx for all the great info guys!!!!

FiredUpZ28

best thing to do is stick with the same brand, and use correct weight

777Shock777

iTrader: (5)

Switched to synthetic 5w-30 and never looked back.

garygnu

the only thing I herd that you can't switch oil back and forth with ,is a 2 stroke engine .maybe pull a valve cover ,or look down the oil filler hole and see what condition the heads look like .hopefully you don't see any sludge build up.if you have a higher mileage motor ,maybe check the rocker arm bearings for any excessive play .

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I'm not so sure about that. The all-around best oils spec-wise for our cars are Castrol GC 0-30 and M1 0-40. Great cold flow and high temp protection. I used to use GC, but at $9.00 a quart these days, no can do. So I use TropArtic 5-30 during the cold months and Rotella 10-30 in the warm months. Gets the job done at $2.25-3.25 a quart.

demonspeed

iTrader: (7)

Oil weight recommendations from the factory have a lot to do with meeting emissions from what I understand. Just something else to keep in mind...

Sunset2002SSvert

Thanks to all and your responses. I went ahead and put M1 5w30 syn. Here in SC the weather is not cold at all although hotter than he'll in the summer. Car has 76,000 miles on it and has been taken care of. The guys at the shop were dueling over the shape the car is in.

mjs1012

iTrader: (36)

I ran conventional 5w30 oil in my original 225k stock motor and never had any issues what so ever. I use m1 0w40 in my newer cammed motor now and have 0 complaints. I did some reading and found that m1 0w40 although a euro oil is one of the best on the market with all of the additives found in it.

z28SSilvest

The manual that came with my engine from GM calls for 5w-30 synthetic oil. I run Mobile 1 and have not had any problems with it.

BAD2000TA

iTrader: (6)

I currently run Mobil One 0W-40. It's good stuff, but I'm planning to switch to the Mobil One 15w-50 that contains more zddp to help with metal-to-metal contact. I live in Houston so the thicker is good in the summer heat and it doesn't get cold enough to worry about in the winter.

spydog

Should i run 5w30 or 10w30 mobile one in my LS1

SEABASSS03

Sweet!! I had the same question!! Syntectic FTW