Changing header gasket. Do I dare?
#1
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Changing header gasket. Do I dare?
By the sounds of it, I've got a nice little leak coming from the passenger side exhaust manifold gasket, and I'm really tempted to change it out. But I'd really rather not break off a bolt inside of the head. The car has 123k miles on it, and I bought it with Pacesetter long tubes already installed. Clearly somebody has taken them off once before, and they're all there, but I'm still a little nervous about trying to take them out.
Any tips for taking the bolts out? Should I live with the annoying ticking sound under load? These are the real questions here.
Any tips for taking the bolts out? Should I live with the annoying ticking sound under load? These are the real questions here.
#2
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Soak them repeatedly in something to loosen them up. A couple of days in a row. Before you take them out, soak them again and let it sit for 30 mins or so. You could also try stuff like Freeze-Out which helps a lot with exhaust manifold bolts.
#3
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Depends on there condition
I just did headers on my 98 and they came out smooth and easy. Then again my car has 48k. It depends on how they look. Mine looked clean with still all silver coating, if yours are rusty id give em a several day treatment of PB blaster and when you go to remove them go slow
I just did headers on my 98 and they came out smooth and easy. Then again my car has 48k. It depends on how they look. Mine looked clean with still all silver coating, if yours are rusty id give em a several day treatment of PB blaster and when you go to remove them go slow
#4
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PB Blaster is GREAT !! better yet if you squirt them while the bolts are hot. First try and tighten them SLIGHTLY then if they move remove them. Don't overthink this they are just bolts.
#5
Piece of cake man. Use Kroils! The best, hands down. Like the other guy said, give each bolt a spray for a few nights in a row. Especially the back bolts, they're the ones that typically snap. A good wobble extension helps a lot. I always drain the coolant to take out the temp sensor (driver's side directly next to the front of the header) because I always seem to crack it somehow, but it's not a requirement.
#7
I like sea foam , deep creep . Give all the bolts a shot, wait a bit and try the bolts. If you hear a squeaking sound from a bolt , STOP, give it another shot, wait and turn the bolt in. The idea is to go back and forth to get the stuff to work a bit at a time , so you may have to repeat the process a few times. I would also replace the bolts with a set of ARP stainless bolts.
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#8
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I just did headers on mine with 72k on it. The bolts didn't look like ****, but they weren't exactly brand new either. The only thing I did was crack the bolts loose while the motor was still cooking. But to be safe I would definitely give them a soak with some good penetrating oil.
#9
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Heat!
If you have access to an acetylene torch and/or a welder your job will be easy. Heat the head around the broken bolt, weld a nut to the broken bolt and remove like a normal bolt. I use this trick all the time. Be a little carefull with the heat, it usually doesn't take much. Now, If you don't have a torch or a welder you can usually get by with a propane or MAPP gas torch and just skip the welding part. I've noticed that about half the broken bolts I remove need no heat as they are already loose. Once the head pops off the bolt spins freely and can be worked out with a vice grip or punch and hammer. Typically the bolts do NOT break off flush in the head leaving something to grab with a vice grip or equivalent. Hope this helps.
#10
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PB blaster! I changed my headers around 80k I sprayed the bolts every night for about 3-4 days before I took them off, and they came out with ease. Could even see how deep the PB blaster soaked into the heads.