stripey22

I recently bought a 2000 WS6 Trans Am M6. It has 58,000 miles and has the following mods.
CNC ported LS6 heads.
PRC double springs
Chromoly push rods
LS7 lifters
MS4 cam 239/242 .649/ .609
Kooks LT
HVM collectors
Magnaflow hi flow cats
GMMG cat back
FAST 90 manifold/ throttle body
25% under drive pulley
LS7 clutch
LS2 flywheel
FAST 36# injectors
airlid
SLP subframe connectors
UMI torque arm
UMI LCA's double adjustable pan hard
Hotchkis sway 1" drop
bilsteins
Moser 12 bolt with 4.10's
drilled and slotted rotors hawks pads

After the initial build the car dynoed 431 whp and 380 tq. This last Saturday the car did 419 whp and 369 tq on the same dyno. It is in need of a new tune. Before I do that though I think I would like to make more power.
My question is, as the car sits, what is the best/ most economical way to boost the car? Turbo vs supercharging. Is one going to be easier based on how the car is set up now? Is one more reliable than the other? I daily this car and would love to still drive it and keep it mostly reliable. My goal is 500-550 whp.

Thanks for any thoughts or advice!

Jeremy

JoeNova

Economical will depend on whether or not you are doing the work.
Supercharger has more startup cost but is easier to install.
Turbo kit will be cheaper but harder to install.

If you can weld, turbo setup will be FAR cheaper, but not everyone has that option.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Nitrous will be the easiest and most economical

stripey22

Thanks for the responses. I am leaning toward nitrous now. Looks like for around $1500 I can get it set up with some safety measures in place.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Yep I have about $1200 into mine, and it has all I really need

5.7stroker

iTrader: (36)

$1500 is a good start, but depending on what you want to do, you can have a really bad *** setup.

N2O outlet Fast 90mm plate kit with 10 lb bottle - $800
N2O outlet stage 2 accessory kit - $400
N2O outlet remote bottle opener 00-66000 - $259
N2O fbody bottle mounting bracket - $60
HP Tuners - $600
NOS mini progressive controller (02-15974NOS) - $275
Racetronix 255 pump and hotwire kit (FPA-001B & FPWK-017W) - $219
N2O outlet F-Body Plastic Fuse Panel Area Dedicated Fuel System - $600
Nitrous cig lighter panel switch - $69
2 1/16 fuel and nitrous N2O pressure gauges - $200
BR7EF plugs - $20

With this setup, the bottle is completely hidden. I can monitor fuel and N2O pressure, heat the bottle, and open it without ever getting out of the drivers seat. I have a stand alone fuel system so I can run VP C16 fuel.

Click the links in my sig for install information and wiring schematics.

stripey22

Thank you for this info! I Will go read your links right now.

Guuseppe'sTA

Nitrous definitely the most economical, but maybe in the future check out Huron Speeds turbo kits, not bad pricing, and add some Meth and your 419hp will be easily touching 700hp good luck be safe!

ss.slp.ls1

iTrader: (36)

Agreed. Your car is far from optimally set up for boost as it sits with the cam and what I am assuming is a high compression ratio.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Yep exactly. There's no way I'd run boost on mine unless it was like 6-7 psi max, and what would even be the point of doing that when I can make more power from a 150 shot, and have spent a fraction of the price on top of it lol.

epfatboy

iTrader: (3)

Nitrous is economical for sure but it is not a lite it up whenever kind of power unless you decide to use your heater at key on. Even then you are waiting for pressure to build to 900# minimally. There is also the over pressure situation in summertime heat to deal with, you can easily see 1200# and that is not a great situation as your tune goes leaner

Also, the number of hits in a 10# bottle is like 60 seconds for a 150 shot, keep in mind 10# is usually just 8# since pressure becomes an issue at low bottle volume.

Then there is cost, I fill my own bottles so I get it at like 4.50 a pound, but getting a mother bottle can be a bitch for some. Retail pricing in my area is $7 so you should factor that in.

Timing... need to pull a few degrees on the hit. Not sure how you toggle that on/off on this platform, didn't read you parts list. Maybe it's like my drag Car and you have a WOT trigger when armed that pulls it.

I'm a Nitrous guy so not bashing it at all, just thought I'd give you some other things to think about. If this is for track use then nitrous makes a lot of sense, if your fing around on the street the prep work and cost makes it kind of a bitch.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

For me nitrous is still extremely cheap for me to run even on the street. Considering my car is pretty fast without nitrous I rarely use it. Only when I think I'm out of my league. Since most races rarely go a full quarter mile on the street, the nitrous actually lasts longer than you might think combined with just the occasional use. Also here in MI I pay $4.50 per lb at the local speed shop. To be honest I only use maybe 2-3 bottles a season, so it would take me like 40 years to equal the price of a good blower or turbo lol. So if I'm going to a car meet or whatnot, I just crack open the bottle (so I'm ready just in case) then simply turn the bottle off when I get home. Simple as that. Been doing it like that for years with no problems whatsoever. As long as you don't spray often I still think nitrous is extremely great and cheap even on the street. Just my personal experiences and thoughts

epfatboy

iTrader: (3)

I guess I should mention I am building a JY turbo build for a street toy. If it goes well my next bullet for the drag car will be a LSx with hair dryer and I'd lose the nitrous but I still think Nitrous has a place.