Utinator

What would it take to make a Gen. 4 run the 1/4 mile in 12 seconds, and stay street legal? Eventually, I would like to break into the 10's. For now, I'd be happy just keeping up with the F-150 Eco Boost.

So far, my best 1/4 mile time is 14.9 seconds. I would like to get that down to 12 seconds N/A. What mods would it take to do that? How much money do I have to throw at this car to make it move?

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Is this a V6 lol?

bigbomber5

A tailwind should do it

02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

Provided your car is auto, the cheapest/easiest way would be to get a decent converter (3600-4000 stall, your choice) and some drag radials. Even on an otherwise stock car, those two mods should get you into the 12’s no problem.

That being said, I have no idea what you’re doing to get a best of 14.9, but I think before you start looking at mods you need to service that thing. What was your trap speed and 60 ft time?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Are you racing at 5,000 feet? Or, perhaps this is a V6 model as suggested? Only other explanation for a 14.9 would be a terrible launch on awful tires, a drivetrain in serious need of service, or some sort of driver error/inexperience.

These cars have run in the upper 12s stock (12.89 is the record, '99 M6 Z28), but low-mid 13s is more typical. Anything slower than upper 13s would suggest a problem - could be mechanical, traction related, bad weather or simply driver error. Getting into the 12s can sometimes be as easy as a couple simple bolt-ons and good weather with good traction. I've even see stock automatic cars run in the 13.10 range, with one '02 A4 WS6 hitting 12.98 in cold, dry December weather totally stock.

Utinator

Nope. This is a stock 2000 SS (LS1) with an auto trans. I did replace the brakes before going to the track. Everything else was original from the day it was built.

I have my time slips here:
Richmond Dragway 6/9/2017
Right lane Left lane
Reaction----.5489 Reaction----.6458
60ft------------2.2190 60ft------------2.2673
330ft----------6.4585 330ft----------6.3915
1/8 ET--------9.9258 1/8 ET--------9.7285
1/8 mph-----71.58 1/8 mph-----74.83
1/4 ET-------15.4153 1/4 ET-------14.9630
1/4 mph-----90.74 1/4 mph-----94.42

Utinator

Since then, I have replaced the shocks, rear lower control arms, pan hard bar, and added a front shock mount brace. I have a 4L80 and Circle D converter (3200 stall) being built. I have been thinking about adding a Pro Charger to the list as well.

Utinator

Lol! I might need a hurricane.

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

I'm sorry, but there is something very wrong with your car. You should be trapping like 10 mph better

Puck

iTrader: (17)

DA at that track on that day was sub 1000ft, so you should have been quite a bit quicker...

Mileage? Any CELs? When was your last leakdown test? Your trap is quite a bit low, so the car is missing a chunk of power somewhere.

FWIW you should be in the 12s with very basic boltons in an 00 SS. Any reason for a 4L80 in a stock car? It will slow you down, but the stall will be at least .5 off your ET. Until you fix the underlying issues though, if it falls on its face still you are looking at being possibly the only stalled auto LS1 in the 14s lol.

Utinator

I want to replace the 4L60 before it breaks. Since I planned on adding more hp (forced induction), I figured I would start with the 4L80 swap. I was thinking about swapping the 10-bolt before I add any more power, but it doesn't look like I'm anywhere near over-powering it now. I was also thinking that the street tires and traction control would keep the rear end from getting torqued off.

I bought the car last March. I have never checked the compression or done a leakdown test. I was going to get the mechanic to do that when he swaps the trans. There are no check engine lights. It has about 93k miles, and seems to run good on the road. I just have a hard time beating those Nissans off the line.

02DroptopZ

iTrader: (3)

With your car being that sluggish, I think step 1 should be seeing what your compression looks like. It would suck if your engine is hurt, but it would suck even harder if you threw some expensive parts at it and learned that after the fact. You should be able to rent a tester for free from any auto parts store. While you’re in there, swap your plugs/wires. You need to remove them for the compression test anyways.

Also, based on your last post, do you race with traction control on? If so, don't. That's definitely hurting your time as well. The 10 bolt can take a decent amount of abuse from an auto car, and traction control is probably harder on it than any launch would be.

JD_AMG

You need to figure out what is wrong with the car before you do anything else. That thing should be running at least mid to low 13s at 105mph.

Wait, were you racing with T/C on?

What nissans? The only one that should be giving you any trouble would be a GTR...

HCI2000SS

iTrader: (2)

Don't forget the F-150 Ecoboosts as well lol

01CamaroSSTx

iTrader: (3)

This was my third and best pass on my car. This was on the BFG kdw radials no burnout and launching at around 2,000 rpms. I can already see I need work on my reaction time. I need to get the brake line lock installed, slap on the slicks, get a good burnout and really launch the car to find it what it's made of though.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

The bolded areas are the biggest concern. As mentioned above, the poor 14.96 time is not just a matter of bad traction at launch - there is also major concern with those trap speeds. My '00 A4 WS6 trapped 9-10mph higher stock in both the 1/8th and quarter.

If the traction control was on, I would scrap that run and data entirely, and try again before considering anything else.

If not, you're either significantly down on power (could be a multitude of reasons for this, I'd start by checking fuel pressure under load, fuel trims, timing/KR, and any stored DTC data before considering more difficult things such as compression and leakdown testing), or the throttle just isn't opening all the way (could be a cable issue or floor mats in the way or something like this), or the transmission is slipping or shifting too early, or there is some combo of these or other things going on. The 60-foot isn't good, but not unexpected for normal street tires. Regardless, that missing trap speed is telling the story of the slow ET, you just have to figure out where/how the power is being lost.

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

How many miles on the car? Have the plugs & wires been changed? Have you done a visual on your intake tract - air filter, any crud on the MAF screen, gummed up TB, oil in the intake? Have you verified the TB is opening 100% at WOT? Is your fuel pressure holding as rpms climb?

I would verify that all the fuel/air/spark parameters are right before being concerned about compression/internal engine conditions. Nor would I be thinking about any mods until the basic performance of the car is within the normal range.

bigbomber5

This is definitely one of the most interesting threads I've read in a while
I'm really interested in any updates so don't go leaving us hanging!

Utinator

I turned the traction control OFF before I "launched". As stated before, the engine has 93k miles (and counting), and everything is original. I have been thinking about giving it a tune-up. I have also been thinking about replacing it with either an L96, or a Gen. 5 SS. Sooo many choices.

My torque converter has already shipped from Circle D. The transmission guy said he would tear-down the 4L80 next week. So, it looks like I have a couple weeks before I will get the car to the mechanic.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Before any modifications or considering engine replacement, I would go through all the checks mentioned in the lists of mine and others above. Start with the easy stuff first.