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How to go about aftermarket brake lines that made the abs unit leak

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Old 03-20-2019 | 09:56 AM
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Default How to go about aftermarket brake lines that made the abs unit leak

What to do now?
Old 03-20-2019 | 10:33 AM
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I am trying to understand your post. So you replaced your brake lines and now your ABS leaks? Do I have that right? Did you use hard line or AN style?
Old 03-20-2019 | 12:56 PM
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Well I got fine line front brake lines that my have not been the exact stock size and one of them appears to be leaking between the nut and the line. I'm trying to figure out the best recipe to make connections fast and easy to make dropping the k member faster for engine work.
Old 03-20-2019 | 01:09 PM
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I've seen a lot of guys run the lines around the firewall for exactly that purpose. It's just the passenger side you have to worry about rerouting really. I wouldn't recommend using flexible line (AN type) for long stretches either, considering it has to handle 1000 psi+. Brake lines are super easy to bend and you can pick up a bender and lines in straight stock at most parts stores for about $30. That also might solve your leak too, since they sell them in a variety of lengths. You can just replace it outright. I would. Brakes aren't something you want to have problems with later.
Old 03-20-2019 | 10:29 PM
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What do I do if the abs unit threads are stripped?
Old 03-20-2019 | 11:55 PM
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Well it’s going to be one of two options here. Option one obviously being replacing the unit, or, you could tap it out to the next size. If I were doing the tap, I’d pull the unit, drain it completely, and try and plug the hole before drilling it out with something I could pull later, like foam or a shop towel. Some grease on the bit will catch the shavings for the most part, but still all risky in my opinion. If anything picking up a “new” one at the junkyard would honestly be less hassle than having to do all that and clean the crud out.

Before you you pull it make sure you disconnect the battery and don’t hook it back up until everything is back together to avoid an ABS light. Pre fill it before hooking everything back up. If you knock it out of “home” while bleeding you’ll need a tech II to fix it.
Old 03-20-2019 | 11:58 PM
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Also note that the year should be close or a match. I know for a fact they changed the serial bus data from analog (98) to digital in 2002. I don’t know the year this changed exactly, but if this doesn’t match the pcm, your TCS won’t work. Most guys ditch that anyway, but worth mentioning.
Old 03-21-2019 | 09:26 AM
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The z28 I have is a 2000. Do you know of any stronger aftermarket abs units that people are using?




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