Originally Posted by Bspeck82

My advice is I strongly recommend buying a good tire for the rear, like an nt05r or street ss MT and put a circle d 3600 converter in it it will drive well and I'd wager the first time you hit it off the line it will scare you. Then work on suspension. Does it have stock computer and obd2? Grab hptuners, if its carb I would save up and buy an edelbrock pro flo efi system and a tci trans control module. If it's an 89 you should need to go through a sniffer. Keep that in mind.

Dont run SD go with a maf. Also Read up on local emmissions laws and see what's required to pass.

With all that room I'd be tempted to forget about the 60e and save up for an 80e with a decent converter.

Originally Posted by drdave88

It sounds like you have read some of the "hot words" on modifying an engine and are running with them without really realizing what it is you'd even be doing. That's nothing against you, but do you know why you would need to change your rockers, or pushrod length? What would make speed density better than MAF? I'm with bammax, learn the basics and build up from there. If you don't fully understand what you're working on, you won't be able to make it run right.

Originally Posted by Kjduvall

​​​​​Pretty Shure this is what you were talking about when you mentioned leaf springs. YOU don't have em, it's a third gen. It's very similar to a 4th gen you have a torq arm set up. You want to build rear suspension call umi or bmr and talk to em thell set you straight. Engine/ stall set up go with a tried and true combo (research for many hours) but my quick,fast,off the top ove my head would be tsp kit pushrods/springs/cam kit. In something like a 228/232 on 111+3 or a good ole 228/228 and a yank SS 3600,a real Dyno tune by some one that knows there ****, and do your self a favor research alot more so you can make better decisions on parts purchases. Or break down your questions into smaller groups, and post them in threads here like, suspension/trans/gen 3 internal/etc...... Good luck and post a pic of it we'd like to see it .

Originally Posted by Bspeck82

Trail blazer nbss is a great truck intake. I saw one on ebay with rails injectors and TB for like 300-400 bucks. For a good lopey cam call ws6store and order up the hot cam. Good bang for buck too. Keep the 60e will likely not break it. Throw in the circled 278mm converter, 3.23 gear minimum 3.73 max and longtubes with true duals. All that should net 380whp-ish and run high 11s. This is what I'd do in your situation.

Originally Posted by cookseyb

Corsa and be done with it..Amazon has several good books on these engines and things you need for swaping them in various vehicles, study them, make a plan, and then you won't have bought a bunch of junk promoted by the internet.. Good Luck, Keep us up to speed as you go and quit listening to you buddies bench race.

Originally Posted by Bspeck82

Trail blazer nbss is a great truck intake. I saw one on ebay with rails injectors and TB for like 300-400 bucks. For a good lopey cam call ws6store and order up the hot cam. Good bang for buck too. Keep the 60e will likely not break it. Throw in the circled 278mm converter, 3.23 gear minimum 3.73 max and longtubes with true duals. All that should net 380whp-ish and run high 11s. This is what I'd do in your situation.

Originally Posted by BigBurd89

And it’s truck intake I plan on putting this intake on it https://www.ebay.com/i/263683857247?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=263683857247&targetid=59377238801 3&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9059566&poi=&campa ignid=2086088343&mkgroupid=77258593596&rlsatarget= pla-593772388013&abcId=1141016&merchantid=119098165&gc lid=CjwKCAiAh5_uBRA5EiwASW3IaqydAYjAV82_Zc9DT2qPgi tBF6lZsejyy6mqZDkoMXUIbh56NROjghoC724QAvD_BwE

Originally Posted by BigBurd89

would you know how to make the rear end heavier? And not tryna jump any guns but put a posi in it? Or limited slip?

Originally Posted by drdave88

Why do you want to add weight to the rear, traction? Weight isn't the way to go, tires and limited slip diff are.

Originally Posted by JoeNova

Nope.

Originally Posted by BigBurd89

Cause it’s heavier in the front than the back? Figured it’d keep it planted and won’t spin out as much

Originally Posted by drdave88

Take weight off the front then, don't add weight to the back. Get good tires and set your suspension up right to reduce spin. Don't just dump weight in the back, sounds like some backwoods hillbilly stuff lol

Originally Posted by Bspeck82

There are other kits that sound better and look just as good at a fraction of the cost. Tsp rumbler for example