SSquicksilver

Lee,
What is AIR system, do you mean the AC?

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

I have Magnaflow metallic substrate cats. I ran without cats for many years, but in winter it would get annoyingly loud (for my tastes). These took the edge off without quieting it overmuch. Plus I don't miss the smell. Very happy with them. I don't remember what they actually cost, but I think it was about $75 each.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

But that local car might not have the same restriction as your factory muffler, which is certainly going to impact flow at very high rpm as compared to just about any other aftermarket option. To be clear, there's certainly nothing wrong with going to 1-7/8" nor do I disagree with anything in RedXrays post, but I just wouldn't expect it to make much difference over 1-3/4" if you're going to retain the stock muffler.

AIR = Air Injection Reaction. This is an emissions device which pumps oxygen (outside air) into the exhaust system. It connects to the exhaust system via two small pipes (you'll see one on top of each exhaust manifold). It serves no worldly purpose other than for emissions control; keeping vs. deleting it will do nothing to change overall exhaust volume or engine performance. Most folks delete it to reduce weight and complexity when installing headers, but if you have some kind of strict visual inspection to pass then you might still need it (then again, if it's a strict visual then you wouldn't be able to use LT headers in the first place because they relocate the cats, which is not emissions legal).

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Right, if you look at the top front of your exhaust manifolds you will see the tubes for the AIR system. The theory is that the AIR system injects air into the exhaust while the engine is cold, and accelerates the heating of the catalytic converters so they work effectively as soon as possible after startup. Once the car is warm AIR shuts off.


https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...questions.html

The AIR pump is behind the plastic inner fender liner in front of the driver's side front wheel. You could remove it, all of the hoses, and just cap off the vacuum line that runs to the solenoid.

SSquicksilver

RPM,
Thank you for the wealth of information Sir!

SSquicksilver

Thanks for the excellent visual Lee, I appreciate your time and knowledge!

lees02WS6

iTrader: (5)

Full disclosure, @ssgunny did that visual. Let us know what you decide to do, and post up some pics!

ssgunny

iTrader: (6)

Thanks for the acknowledgement but credit goes to someone else (unknown) as I found it in a search many years ago. Anyway, good luck to the OP’s modding journey.

MonmouthCtyLS7

iTrader: (6)

Theres a million LS Cams out there, I would speak to one of the vendors and they'll lead you in the right direction. All you'll get here is opinions.

Bspeck82

Get headers and a catted Y pipe. I prefer TSP. Mate Y pipe to factory exhaust or Jegs super turbo catback kit if yours is rusted out. May require some fitment work. Get a cutout on the passanger side y pipe. Done.

SSquicksilver

Actually some good opinions here, such as the info on the headers and exhaust.
I knew coming into the forum it would be like searching for a needle in the haystack on my particular spec on the 233/233 112LSA with .595/.595 lift because of the millions of cams out there.
Quite honestly, I value the opinions here a little more than a vendor selling their product as they will clearly steer you to what they have on the shelf more often than not.

But thanks for your imput.

SSquicksilver

Just out of pure curiosity, do you open the cutout from a lever inside the car or do you have to go underneath and open there?

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

They can be had either way, manual or electric.

Bspeck82

I'd do electric.

Summitracing

OP,

You've received some great advice from the community. It sounds like you're just trying to scratch the itch to have a good-sounding 4th gen that isn't too loud. Maybe it's something to re-live your youth to bring back those memories of your old neighbors 69 Camaro. Like others, we think you can scratch that itch with long tube headers. You can add some free-flowing cats and maybe some aftermarket mufflers. Then if you wanted to have those spirited moments you could add cut-outs. We honestly think this will bring you what you're looking for and never have to tear into the engine. You sound like you just want something to put a smile on your face and a nice free-flowing exhaust can do that.

If you're thinking yes that sounds great but I still want a nice mild cam then we have something for you. Our Ghost cam fits the bill for what you're looking for perfectly. That is part number SUM-8715. Specs on it are .600/.575, 222/233, 115+3 with -2* of overlap. This cam has a few threads about it here on LS1Tech from members such as MAVN and kfxguy among others. It will have a nice smooth idle that you can get to lope slightly with the idle speed turned down. It will have excellent driveability and be easy to tune. With its early exhaust closing, it will be plenty happy with a stock exhaust system. Anything more will only be a benefit.

See this video for a good idea of what the idle will sound like. This is the Ghost cam in fellow forum member kfxguy's GTO when it had a 5.7 LS1 in it.

The thing about a cam swap is that it's not just swapping the cam. There are always other things that are going to have to be changed. At a minimum with the Ghost cam you're going to need better springs and pushrods. For springs you can go with tried and true TFS-16918-16 .600" lift beehive springs. If you like added insurance you can go with .660" lift TFS-2500286 dual springs.

When it comes to pushrods we generally see that 7.400" or 7.425" will work with the Ghost cam. This isn't a guarantee so we always recommend measuring first before purchasing pushrods. If you don't already have one we offer a pushrod length checker from Trickflow. That is part number TFS-9501. You'll also need a set of 9" dial calipers to accurately measure the pushrod length checking tool.

We understand our customers like combos. We have cam and spring combos as well as cam, spring, and install kit combos. You can view all available combos for the Ghost cam here.

Best of luck with the project and happy modding!

SSquicksilver

Than you Summit Racing for taking the time from your busy day on your reply.
I will look at your p/n's for the Springs and the Pushrods and reference them going forward. The Ghost cam sounds mild enough to leave everything stock alright, but if I can keep a low mellow tone with Long Tubes and high flowing cats I may go that route.

I will go through your website to explore the products, I sincerely appreciate the reply!

Summitracing

OP,

No problem. If you need any further assistance feel free to shoot us a PM. We'll be happy to help!

RevGTO

iTrader: (12)

OP, with all that's been said, if you do decide to go the cam route, I can't imagine a better option than the one Summit has spec'd out for you above.

SSquicksilver

Hi Rev,

I am going Long Tubes for certain just to get the extra HP/torque since aftermarket Cats along with hush hush cans will be used on my mods. That being said, I believe that is the only way I can get the most out of my cam config posted above even if I have to grind it custom. I know the sound and thump I want and the closest cam I have seen in seen in the States is a 232/234 with my preferred LSA. A 229/233 is also something I will look at.

I like the easiness (parts involved) of the Summit cam, I actually love that it works with a stock baseline engine, but my heart belongs to the grinds I mentioned above. If the Aussies can get it done, I know it can be done here in the States just as easy.

Take a look at the TSP Torquer V2, that is the closest lope that I have found to what I want have in mind. It definitely will need an upgraded exhaust and heads along with one heck of a Tune!

Perhaps we can talk about the stock fuel system in the 02 Camaro down the road, I have questions about keeping that stock as well.
Thanks Rev, hope you have a nice day.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Just keep in mind that yours won't have the same lope/chop going though cats and a stock muffler. In addition to being muted (volume) it also won't be as sharp/defined...for lack of a better term. So if you are looking to match the idle quality (other than volume) of any given cam based on a sound clip that involves aftermarket muffler(s) and a catless system, you might be disappointed in the results of said cam in your application. In other words, using cats and a stock muffler isn't exactly the same as just turning down the volume while keeping all the other qualities the same, it also "smooths" the exhaust note and makes the idle seem more mild (less chop/lope).

For example, one of the configurations on my Trans Am many years ago involved installing/removing cats with an otherwise unchanged exhaust system, this was after it already had an aftermarket cam and louder than stock muffler. The change (reduction) in lope/chop at idle was pretty noticeable after the cats were added, even though it already had a louder muffler.