HCI for a first timer... advice?
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 10
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HCI for a first timer... advice? Hey all, have posted on this forum before regarding my 2000 LS1 vert. I recently got a great deal on some mild heads + cam + intake and am planning to install them myself. I've never done such a large job before and will not have access to a lift.
Heads are 64cc ported
Cam is 220/220 lsa 114
intake is a ls6 intake
car is stock other than a tick master, slave, and monster single disk series s.
What should I know before starting? Any tips or tricks? is it necessary to pull the engine? Any good "while im in there" maintenance to do?
Thanks
Heads are 64cc ported
Cam is 220/220 lsa 114
intake is a ls6 intake
car is stock other than a tick master, slave, and monster single disk series s.
What should I know before starting? Any tips or tricks? is it necessary to pull the engine? Any good "while im in there" maintenance to do?
Thanks
Teching In
Joined: May 2023
Posts: 6
Likes: 2
From: Palmdale, California
I would definitely replace lifters, lifter tray add the trunnion rocker arm upgrade, Ls2 timing chain/ gear, also upgrade to a melling high pressure standard volume pump for some piece of mind. I also did an Improved racing oil baffle so oil can get to the pickup tube faster, and grab set of some longtube headers to wake up that cam a bit. No need to pull engine everything can be done while engine is in the car.
I would avoid new GM lifters like The Plague. Johnson makes drop-in lifters that are high quality.
GM lifters used to be good but the manufacturer for GM lifters changed when GM stopped OE production of LS engines and it became aftermarket only. That's when the rash of lifter related problems started splattering the forums.
GM lifters used to be good but the manufacturer for GM lifters changed when GM stopped OE production of LS engines and it became aftermarket only. That's when the rash of lifter related problems started splattering the forums.
personally, i wouldnt worry about anything oiling related. really nothing wrong with it since i assume you will probably have a red line of around 6700 with that combo, and pulling the pump when there isnt a current issue seems to be almost doubling the complexity of the project. worrying about not pinching o ring, and to do it right, its a good idea to check pickup to oil pan distance.
if you have the extra budget, getting tie bar lifters would only be an extra 150 or so for a decent quality which i think is money well spent.
if you have the extra budget, getting tie bar lifters would only be an extra 150 or so for a decent quality which i think is money well spent.
Last edited by Floorman279; May 15, 2023 at 08:34 PM. Reason: .........
I did my first full HCI (on my own) 99 Trans Am WS6 last winter. CNC ported LS6 heads, BTR 3 NA cam, and LS6 intake. Replaced everything when I was in there on jack stands and mostly from the top other than installing the pick-up tube to the pump (I used the Improved Racing pick up tube brace as well) and retorquing the oil pan bolts. If you do headers you'll have to jack the car up a bit more, but it's doable on the ground.
For reliability I used the Melling 10295, have had great oil pressure (35 psi hot, 55-60 during a cold start) on my stock 150k short block. If I had a low mile car I wouldn't really worry about the oil pump as much, but I was determined to take care of all the "while I'm in there" items. I used an LS2 timing chain with new timing chain gear, and also installed the Trick Flow timing chain damper bracket with a GM guide since my block wasn't drilled. I used Johnson 2110 lifters with new LS2 trays.(OEM GM, do not buy aftermarket trays) or just go with tie bars like the poster above recommended. All of that was just done for piece of mind. Haven't had any issues in the 3000 hard-ish miles I've driven the car since. I usually shift at 6500-6700 and haven't had any issues.
I installed an ATI Super Damper with an ARP bolt "while I was in there" too, but this applies to even installing with the stock damper, the crank bolt kicked my *** going back in. I never actually achieved 235 ft lbs even with the flywheel locked and with a massive torque wrench. I ended up following the ATI advice of using Red Locktite 272, high temp RTV on both sides of the washer, and torquing it to somewhere over 200 ft lbs, lol. Hasn't budged in a year and a half.
Good luck and have fun.
For reliability I used the Melling 10295, have had great oil pressure (35 psi hot, 55-60 during a cold start) on my stock 150k short block. If I had a low mile car I wouldn't really worry about the oil pump as much, but I was determined to take care of all the "while I'm in there" items. I used an LS2 timing chain with new timing chain gear, and also installed the Trick Flow timing chain damper bracket with a GM guide since my block wasn't drilled. I used Johnson 2110 lifters with new LS2 trays.(OEM GM, do not buy aftermarket trays) or just go with tie bars like the poster above recommended. All of that was just done for piece of mind. Haven't had any issues in the 3000 hard-ish miles I've driven the car since. I usually shift at 6500-6700 and haven't had any issues.
I installed an ATI Super Damper with an ARP bolt "while I was in there" too, but this applies to even installing with the stock damper, the crank bolt kicked my *** going back in. I never actually achieved 235 ft lbs even with the flywheel locked and with a massive torque wrench. I ended up following the ATI advice of using Red Locktite 272, high temp RTV on both sides of the washer, and torquing it to somewhere over 200 ft lbs, lol. Hasn't budged in a year and a half.
Good luck and have fun.
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TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 1,250
Likes: 239
From: Dade City, Fl.
I bought the Summit Racing oil pump. It looks just like the Melling M295. It even has the casting identifiers Melling M295's have. Then I did this Has been working flawlessly for 2 years.
CHEVROLET Cam Motion M-5290 Cam Motion Lifters | Summit Racing i believe these are morels
Last edited by Floorman279; May 15, 2023 at 08:41 PM. Reason: .......
I bought the Summit Racing oil pump. It looks just like the Melling M295. It even has the casting identifiers Melling M295's have. Then I did this Has been working flawlessly for 2 years.
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2019
Posts: 25
Likes: 6
Not parts related... but pull the cowl cover off prior to making hamburger out of your forearms with those push connectors.
Mark all your parts, buy some cheap baggies and a sharpie to keep everything organized.
don't mess with stock head bolts and the 90*+70* malarkey, there's not enough space for that.. Get ARP bolts which are just three actual torque advanced numbers.
good luck.
Mark all your parts, buy some cheap baggies and a sharpie to keep everything organized.
don't mess with stock head bolts and the 90*+70* malarkey, there's not enough space for that.. Get ARP bolts which are just three actual torque advanced numbers.
good luck.