Y2K_Frenzy

I replaced the EVAP solenoid and it still has the slight idle surge. I was watching the O2 voltage and bank one would fluctuate quite a bit and bank two was holding fairly steady. This was at idle. The upstream o2 sensors are pretty new. Bank one is also the side that got the cat code, P0420.
Would a spark plug and wire change be worth while?

EDS01SS

iTrader: (30)

The U1016 is a CAN BUS (control module) loss of communication code and the other two codes are wheel speed sensor codes. The loss of communication is the first issue you need to figure out. The sensor codes are probably caused by the communication problem. Check your fuses to the ABS control module and check your grounds. Make sure you have power and ground at the control module. If the wiring is good then chances are the module and or the ABS pump motor has gone bad

Y2K_Frenzy

I didn’t think my model used CAN BUS.

EDS01SS

iTrader: (30)

Probably not in the way you're thinking but the ABS control module is still its own system

Y2K_Frenzy

I’m probably going to let that code ride I think. At least until it starts having symptoms. 😂

Y2K_Frenzy

@RPM WS6 How much vacuum at idle should the stock LS1 make? I haven’t put a vacuum gauge on it but the MAP reading in kPa on the scanner is something like 35 kPa at idle in park. When I searched “how much vacuum at idle” people say it should be between 18-21Hg. When I google what 18hg equates to in kPa it says 18hg equals 60.95 kilopascals. Is the MAP reading the same as if one hooked up a gauge at a vacuum source? Should my stock LS1 be reading closer to 69 kPa or is 35-40 what we are looking for?
*Edit*
Just now I went and fired it up to play with the scanner a little and after a few minutes of idling this loud rapid ticking noise starting coming from the engine. It turned out to be the new Napa purge valve that I bought last week. I put the original back on and the ticking stopped. It had the same slight idle surge with both valves. So either the new one was bad all along or it just went bad when it started ticking, or my old one is good. It wasn’t stumbling or anything when the valve was ticking its *** off though. I wonder if I can get my money back on the new valve, or would it be better to see if I can exchange it? I bet the OEM valve is probably good though. I got the p0420 code again today so that stinks. In the near future when my injector cleaning machine arrives I’m going to give the rail & injectors a good douching. Maybe that’ll do something.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

Looking back at my stock logs, it seems that 9.2-9.4 inHg was my typical MAP reading at idle (P/N). That would be about ~20" vacuum (when subtracted from barometric pressure), which is correct for a stock cam. My average log readings of 9.3 inHg would convert to about 31.5 kpa.

If you are seeing about 35 kpa then you have about 19" of vacuum at average barometric pressure. So it doesn't really sound like you're chasing a vacuum leak, and your original purge valve was probably fine if changing it had no impact on idle quality.

It would really be great to see cylinder specific misfires, just to see if there is a certain cylinder (or bank) that shows more misfire activity during the idle surge. Then you could maybe pinpoint a specific injector or coil that might need attention; even swap it around to see if the misfire moves. But if your scanner can't show this, then the overview cleaning would be a good step (unless there is a problem with spark, in which case injector cleaning obviously won't have any impact). You could also check resistance (ohms) at each injector (with a multi-meter) and look for an outlier.

Y2K_Frenzy

If I was a betting man I’d bet that bank one is where the problem is going to be since I get a P0420 and not a 430. I was fixing to buy a set of plugs and wires prior to buying the injector cleaner machine but then I started thinking about how it doesn’t break up under load and it seems like every time that I’ve had a spark problem in any other vehicle it would.