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Old 09-01-2004, 03:54 PM
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Originally Posted by TransAm52804
Would you recommend that over the $2-$5 Fernco 3"x3" coupling (smooth bellows)? The Fernco does NOT have the hump in the middle, so I'm not sure if it would need it or not to be effective in the engine. Anyone wanna give advice?
YES, I would. There have been quite a few people with problems using the Fernco. It is too tight, and when the engine torques to the side under throttle something like the lid ends up cracking. It was ~$20 shipped for the hump hose and the rib in the middle allows enough flex that breaking/cracking the lid should not be an issue.



Originally Posted by bee-stro
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
If you aren't looking to spend that much yet, the best yet more affordable mods for you to look into, IMO, would be:

Ported Throttle Body (small gain, won't feel diff)
Underdrive pullies (same as above, except you'll notice it revs more freely)
Subframe connectors (preferably weld in, boxed, will feel this mod)
Fernco/baker/hump hose mod (won't feel, won't do much, but cheap and every little bit helps
Pulleys, forgot about those. Are ASP recommended or the new SLP, also which pulley to get because aren't there different ones like crank, alt, etc.
Pullies are a good mod, ASP is usually recommended. Just get the crank, not the alt, esp for an A4 or you may have charging/power issues at idle speeds.




Originally Posted by bee-stro
I'm sorry, where would I go to get some good SFC's and what brand. I usually order from Speed Inc. and I'm pretty familiar with the other sites/sponsors.
I got my BMR's from Speed Inc. Only ~$165 for boxed, weld ins. There are other good brands, however. Some say "BMR breaks", but IMO they will be perfectly fine. I do recommend welded in boxed, however, regardless of brand. Might as well do it right and get the stiffest/strongest version you can.
Old 09-01-2004, 03:58 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
I got my BMR's from Speed Inc. Only ~$165 for boxed, weld ins. There are other good brands, however. Some say "BMR breaks", but IMO they will be perfectly fine. I do recommend welded in boxed, however, regardless of brand. Might as well do it right and get the stiffest/strongest version you can.
How much did it cost you to get those welded in?

-Todd
Old 09-01-2004, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Gloveperson
How much did it cost you to get those welded in?

-Todd
They charged $65 for the install.
Old 09-01-2004, 04:02 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
They charged $65 for the install.
Hmm, ok. Everyone around here is like "$175"

-Todd
Old 09-01-2004, 04:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Gloveperson
Hmm, ok. Everyone around here is like "$175"

-Todd
Yes, sometimes finding a good place is half the work. Also, anyone who specializes in LS1's is typically better, if for no other reason than that they know exactly what they are getting into, what is involved, have done it before, and are efficient at it. Also, I have had some things done for less than I would necessarily expect from them. I suspect the fact that I spent $1,600 in my second visit there ($550 the first) helped that along. They gotta keep people like me (somewhat local, modding addiction) happy so I keep coming back.
Old 09-01-2004, 04:18 PM
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Anyone notice that jrp is a mod now?
Old 09-01-2004, 04:33 PM
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Originally Posted by 5POINT7
Anyone notice that jrp is a mod now?
And you say that here/now why? Yes, I did notice. There was a thread that discussed it I read part of the day it happened. It's been a few days.

Are you trying to say that most of the questions in this thread could be answered through a search?
Old 09-01-2004, 05:07 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Yes, sometimes finding a good place is half the work. Also, anyone who specializes in LS1's is typically better, if for no other reason than that they know exactly what they are getting into, what is involved, have done it before, and are efficient at it. Also, I have had some things done for less than I would necessarily expect from them. I suspect the fact that I spent $1,600 in my second visit there ($550 the first) helped that along. They gotta keep people like me (somewhat local, modding addiction) happy so I keep coming back.

That is what I would think, but I called up Cartek (a sponser here!) and they quoted me at something that was more than the SFC themselves. I also called up Dynatech (big GNX guys) and they quoted me at 150

The fact that JRP is a mod only will make the forum 10x better! (even though he has been basically been one for a while)

-Todd
Old 09-01-2004, 10:57 PM
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So would it be safe to say my modification list should pretty much be in this order

1. Induction ( Lid, Cold Air Kit, Bellows) - Done
2. Inatke (LS6)- Done
3. Exhaust - Done
4. Throttle Body
5. Pulleys
6. SFC's
7. Tune

and then whatever else. From what I unstand the TB is relatively cheap, pulleys will give me the pull i'm looking 4 and SFC's will be beneficial by now
Old 09-01-2004, 11:15 PM
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^ Brotha, you've got a few things left to do before you can check "exhaust" off as done. You've still got headers, y-pipe (off-road or high-flow catted), and possibly a cut-out. After all that and the rest of your mods "to do next", THEN do the tune.
Old 09-01-2004, 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Are you trying to say that most of the questions in this thread could be answered through a search?
Sounds good to me.
Old 09-02-2004, 12:23 AM
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Yeah, you definately can't be checking off exhaust because you have a catback. Check my sig. I have checked exhaust off MY list. FYI: I sold my loudmouth to do this exhaust last summer and couldn't be happier.
As was stated, get headers at the minimum before you get a tune. And only tune after headers if you won't be getting a cam or anything else major for awhile. There just isn't enough to gain from minor bolt ons.
Old 09-02-2004, 12:37 AM
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Originally Posted by TransAm52804
^ Brotha, you've got a few things left to do before you can check "exhaust" off as done. You've still got headers, y-pipe (off-road or high-flow catted), and possibly a cut-out. After all that and the rest of your mods "to do next", THEN do the tune.
My bad, I ordered my Cat-back and I plan on doing the ORY around mid-Sept. or definately b4 October and I dont plan on headers til next spring. So maybe I should have labled exhaust as "in progress" opposed to done. work with me I'm young
Old 09-02-2004, 12:46 AM
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Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Yeah, you definately can't be checking off exhaust because you have a catback. Check my sig. I have checked exhaust off MY list. FYI: I sold my loudmouth to do this exhaust last summer and couldn't be happier.
As was stated, get headers at the minimum before you get a tune. And only tune after headers if you won't be getting a cam or anything else major for awhile. There just isn't enough to gain from minor bolt ons.
So i should wait until i get my headers in the Spring, then tune? Couldn't i just get a handheld tuner now and re-tune later?
Old 09-02-2004, 06:56 AM
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Don't throw your money away on handheld. Build up the suspension, and as the car handles better and tightens up you will feel better after the extra 75+ hp go in there with eveything else including tune. I would say your mods should go something like this:

Suspension- SFCs(by SLP), springs (your choice I'm doing H&R), LCAs and PHB, sway bars
Pulleys- ASP (crank and OVERdrive alt)
Finish off exhaust- LTs, Y (your choice), cutout
Cam and Head swap with TB and then tune

You can purchase things and NOT install them...it's OK. Just collect the parts and put them in as you can and then when the time comes for the HC swap, you also will be truly ready for that awesome tune. Hope this helps. Oh, and listen to your elders.




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