Overkill on tranny?
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Overkill on tranny? for a full bolton car...(possible cam/heads eventually a stroker) but as a bolt on car i plan to do a Race T56 tranny swap...so its meant to handle 600-700 hp/tq wiht no issues...with a heavy duty drive shaft and a 3.73 12 bolt posi...
is that really overkill and if so what is the downfall i will see?...is it significant/bad/ok/none......what would the overkill do? cna/will it hurt me in speed? or what?
thanks
adam
is that really overkill and if so what is the downfall i will see?...is it significant/bad/ok/none......what would the overkill do? cna/will it hurt me in speed? or what?
thanks
adam
You can never over build if you are going to grow into it. I don't know too much about the T-56's as I have an Auto. With what I have I really don't need the Trans I do have, but I plan on growing into it. I have spent most of my Money on Heavy duty drivetrain parts so I won't jack it up later when I start making more power. Extra Power is useless if you can't get it to the ground.
TECH Fanatic
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From: NW Houston/Nacogdoches, Texas
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
anybody?...ill i loose anything witha racing t-56? will i loose streetability?..or most likely not? will i loose power?..
thanks
Adam
thanks
Adam
Here is what you need to do first. If you want to go heavy duty to be safe, would be the REAR AXLE. That is the weakest point on the F-body. For some reason, GM thought it would be fun to put a 7.5 inch 10 bolt, which is weak as a 80 computer nerd in the car.
Purchase a 12 bolt from moser with 33 spline axles and 4.10 gears. You will have NO worries about breaking that.
Now on to the tranny. You do not need a WHOLE new tranny, you can pull out the stock one and purchase a rebuild kit, that is compiled of Dodge viper parts. New input shaft, steel shift forks, titanium blocker rings and new synchros and sliders. Usually around 900 bucks in parts, but the whole tranny will be bullet proof after that. Then just get a nice clutch and flywheel (i suggest the Spec 3 or Spec 4 clutch) and you should have NO problems what so ever.
Good luck on building up your car my friend. If you have any more questions for me, post them in here or PM me.
Gray
Purchase a 12 bolt from moser with 33 spline axles and 4.10 gears. You will have NO worries about breaking that.
Now on to the tranny. You do not need a WHOLE new tranny, you can pull out the stock one and purchase a rebuild kit, that is compiled of Dodge viper parts. New input shaft, steel shift forks, titanium blocker rings and new synchros and sliders. Usually around 900 bucks in parts, but the whole tranny will be bullet proof after that. Then just get a nice clutch and flywheel (i suggest the Spec 3 or Spec 4 clutch) and you should have NO problems what so ever.
Good luck on building up your car my friend. If you have any more questions for me, post them in here or PM me.
Gray
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Originally Posted by BigBronco
Here is what you need to do first. If you want to go heavy duty to be safe, would be the REAR AXLE. That is the weakest point on the F-body. For some reason, GM thought it would be fun to put a 7.5 inch 10 bolt, which is weak as a 80 computer nerd in the car.
Purchase a 12 bolt from moser with 33 spline axles and 4.10 gears. You will have NO worries about breaking that.
Now on to the tranny. You do not need a WHOLE new tranny, you can pull out the stock one and purchase a rebuild kit, that is compiled of Dodge viper parts. New input shaft, steel shift forks, titanium blocker rings and new synchros and sliders. Usually around 900 bucks in parts, but the whole tranny will be bullet proof after that. Then just get a nice clutch and flywheel (i suggest the Spec 3 or Spec 4 clutch) and you should have NO problems what so ever.
Good luck on building up your car my friend. If you have any more questions for me, post them in here or PM me.
Gray
Purchase a 12 bolt from moser with 33 spline axles and 4.10 gears. You will have NO worries about breaking that.
Now on to the tranny. You do not need a WHOLE new tranny, you can pull out the stock one and purchase a rebuild kit, that is compiled of Dodge viper parts. New input shaft, steel shift forks, titanium blocker rings and new synchros and sliders. Usually around 900 bucks in parts, but the whole tranny will be bullet proof after that. Then just get a nice clutch and flywheel (i suggest the Spec 3 or Spec 4 clutch) and you should have NO problems what so ever.
Good luck on building up your car my friend. If you have any more questions for me, post them in here or PM me.
Gray
as i can tell form this post...most of you dont see i am doing a conversion to an M6...thats all...if overkill will hurt me noticeably then would it be better to get a street/performance built one or jsut get the Bullet proof one to begin wiht?
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From: Palos Hills, IL
Im debating between FLP and Speed Inc's buitl T56's...Spec Stage #?(2-3-3i) heavy duty aluminum or steel driveshaft?
and for sure the SLP 12 bolt 3.73 posi rear end...33 spline 1350 yoke 8.875 axles..with ABS and TCS sounds damn good to me...(engineered by Moser)
my main concern is the T56 to buy...and if the overkill will be to much for all boiltons or itll work out either way?...i will also get a short throw shifter since i was told is more efficient and safe to use wiht the trans...
so say i was to dyno...say i had a all bolt on with 12 bolt 3.73's ona 2002 M6 full bolt ons putting 365 rwhp and 380 rwtq...
what would a 2002 M6 full bolt on with the Extreme/Race duty transmission and heavy duty driveshaft with aa 12 bolt and 3.73's put down?
the stronger parts dont effect drive/streetability does it?
and for sure the SLP 12 bolt 3.73 posi rear end...33 spline 1350 yoke 8.875 axles..with ABS and TCS sounds damn good to me...(engineered by Moser)
my main concern is the T56 to buy...and if the overkill will be to much for all boiltons or itll work out either way?...i will also get a short throw shifter since i was told is more efficient and safe to use wiht the trans...
so say i was to dyno...say i had a all bolt on with 12 bolt 3.73's ona 2002 M6 full bolt ons putting 365 rwhp and 380 rwtq...
what would a 2002 M6 full bolt on with the Extreme/Race duty transmission and heavy duty driveshaft with aa 12 bolt and 3.73's put down?
the stronger parts dont effect drive/streetability does it?
TECH Junkie
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From: Cornwall, NY
I doubt you are going to lose much power, though you will lose a few ponies... If you are planning on upgrading quite a bit, GO FOR THE STRONGER PARTS...
As far as streetability, the only problem I can think of is the clutch may be a bit stiff, if you get a really strong one.
As far as streetability, the only problem I can think of is the clutch may be a bit stiff, if you get a really strong one.
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From: Palos Hills, IL
well as you can see in the sig...i will be looking into a 455 stroker in due time...but not for atleast the next 7 years (year after extended warranty ends)...i may put in a cam and/or heads as well in the time beeing but will be bolt on only wiht full suspension...debating on which spec stage # clutch to get...2, 3, or 3i? just out of curiosity...why does overkill cause a loss in power?...with the proper suspension will it not be noticeable...or will it be jsut plain un noticeable?
TECH Senior Member
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From: Texas
You cant replace the tranny, rear end, or put heads and a cam on your car and expect to keep the warranty. If you want to go fast, take a look at the track. You will find that the big boys are running stalled autos (TH400s)
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From: Greensboro, North Carolina
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
well as you can see in the sig...i will be looking into a 455 stroker in due time...but not for atleast the next 7 years (year after extended warranty ends)...i may put in a cam and/or heads as well in the time beeing but will be bolt on only wiht full suspension...debating on which spec stage # clutch to get...2, 3, or 3i? just out of curiosity...why does overkill cause a loss in power?...with the proper suspension will it not be noticeable...or will it be jsut plain un noticeable?
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From: Palos Hills, IL
how you figure ill run slower?...stock M6's already run lower then stock A4's....all bolt ons...event he M6 will take it
an M6 that can dump at 4000 will most likely beat an A4 that is stalled to 4000 due too the top end pulling especially that killer 3rd gear....A4 wins out of the hole...but i want that harder pull the fun factor, the top end, the Control over the transe fo harder shift-by-shift for high speed conrnering ability,and the fact that i do NOT feel like buyinng different stall torque converters to match with the CAMS!...Yeah an A4 is more efficient off the line and down the strip...but i have no EXTREME DESIRE to drag race only...and i need the better MPG as well
anybody else got a take on the overkill? any1 with a race built transmission...did you loose power to the wheels? gain power to the wheels? anything if at all b4 and after results/comments? which one would be best...get the total package...or get the mildly upgraded one and than upgrade it when im about to get the stroker?
an M6 that can dump at 4000 will most likely beat an A4 that is stalled to 4000 due too the top end pulling especially that killer 3rd gear....A4 wins out of the hole...but i want that harder pull the fun factor, the top end, the Control over the transe fo harder shift-by-shift for high speed conrnering ability,and the fact that i do NOT feel like buyinng different stall torque converters to match with the CAMS!...Yeah an A4 is more efficient off the line and down the strip...but i have no EXTREME DESIRE to drag race only...and i need the better MPG as well
anybody else got a take on the overkill? any1 with a race built transmission...did you loose power to the wheels? gain power to the wheels? anything if at all b4 and after results/comments? which one would be best...get the total package...or get the mildly upgraded one and than upgrade it when im about to get the stroker?
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From: its fucking cold
Originally Posted by 02WS6Bird
how you figure ill run slower?...stock M6's already run lower then stock A4's....all bolt ons...event he M6 will take it
an M6 that can dump at 4000 will most likely beat an A4 that is stalled to 4000 due too the top end pulling especially that killer 3rd gear....A4 wins out of the hole...but i want that harder pull the fun factor, the top end, the Control over the transe fo harder shift-by-shift for high speed conrnering ability,and the fact that i do NOT feel like buyinng different stall torque converters to match with the CAMS!...Yeah an A4 is more efficient off the line and down the strip...but i have no EXTREME DESIRE to drag race only...and i need the better MPG as well
anybody else got a take on the overkill? any1 with a race built transmission...did you loose power to the wheels? gain power to the wheels? anything if at all b4 and after results/comments? which one would be best...get the total package...or get the mildly upgraded one and than upgrade it when im about to get the stroker?
an M6 that can dump at 4000 will most likely beat an A4 that is stalled to 4000 due too the top end pulling especially that killer 3rd gear....A4 wins out of the hole...but i want that harder pull the fun factor, the top end, the Control over the transe fo harder shift-by-shift for high speed conrnering ability,and the fact that i do NOT feel like buyinng different stall torque converters to match with the CAMS!...Yeah an A4 is more efficient off the line and down the strip...but i have no EXTREME DESIRE to drag race only...and i need the better MPG as well
anybody else got a take on the overkill? any1 with a race built transmission...did you loose power to the wheels? gain power to the wheels? anything if at all b4 and after results/comments? which one would be best...get the total package...or get the mildly upgraded one and than upgrade it when im about to get the stroker?
Not gonna try to talk you out of it, you can make the car slower if you want.
But you should check out the Stock Internals list, the fastest 6 speed car on the list is only mid pack. Also, 6 speeds don't have shift extension, stalled A4's do. Might wanna do some some more homework before you go through the swap.