I got SCREWED!!!!
12-29-2004 | 04:18 PM
#42
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From: I-L-L-I-N-O-I-S
Here's how I look at this type of situation...
No matter what, you are always taking a big risk buying any used car (especially one without a warranty). And you are seriously taking a huge RISK buying one that has been modified/heavily modified...
If the seller truly didn't know there were any ongoing or "existing" problems with the car, it's surely not his fault...Now if he did, then he's a total scam artist who at the very least should be looking at some kind of legal action against him...Of course, those kind of scenarios are very tricky and I wouldn't quite know exactly what kind of action should be taken against him (if there is anything that can be done at all).
Moral of the story though, this is a prime example of why I would never spend much money on a modified performance vehicle (let alone any used car that is more than 10 grand). Just a personal preference thing that I don't believe in...
Sorry about your trouble and good luck with the car in the future,
Mike
No matter what, you are always taking a big risk buying any used car (especially one without a warranty). And you are seriously taking a huge RISK buying one that has been modified/heavily modified...
If the seller truly didn't know there were any ongoing or "existing" problems with the car, it's surely not his fault...Now if he did, then he's a total scam artist who at the very least should be looking at some kind of legal action against him...Of course, those kind of scenarios are very tricky and I wouldn't quite know exactly what kind of action should be taken against him (if there is anything that can be done at all).
Moral of the story though, this is a prime example of why I would never spend much money on a modified performance vehicle (let alone any used car that is more than 10 grand). Just a personal preference thing that I don't believe in...
Sorry about your trouble and good luck with the car in the future,
Mike
12-29-2004 | 05:41 PM
#43
buying a used vehicle especially a modded one is a huge risk.id rather buy it new and mod it my way so i know the history of the vehicle.
sadly theres alot of dishonest people associated with this hobby.
sadly theres alot of dishonest people associated with this hobby.
12-29-2004 | 07:52 PM
#44
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This may be a totally stupid question...but wouldn't his oil pressure gauge have warned him of this disaster before it happened? I know all the work I did is solid on my car, and I still watch my oil gauge like a hawk.
12-29-2004 | 09:30 PM
#45
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Originally Posted by Another_User
This may be a totally stupid question...but wouldn't his oil pressure gauge have warned him of this disaster before it happened? I know all the work I did is solid on my car, and I still watch my oil gauge like a hawk.
12-30-2004 | 12:25 AM
#46
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Originally Posted by 2001ws6ramair
Oil guage never moved until it started the seriously loud tapping. shut it right off then and there and towed it. Come on now.. im not a complete idiot..
and let us know if it's all they say it is...
12-31-2004 | 02:02 PM
#48
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lol im trying to take this with $$$$ in mind first. im not a millionaire but I have cash but i dunno how much im ready to spend on it. I think ill go ahead with this rebuild and see how things turn out for now.
12-31-2004 | 03:30 PM
#49
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You drove it for 1500 miles and for 3 months before you noticed the problem.
I doubt the seller knew about it, he probably didn't even do the mods himself.
Chalk it up to bad luck, and don't cry too much.
I know it sucks, but this is why you see EVERYONE on here say "don't buy a modded car unless you know/trust the seller."
Live and learn.
I doubt the seller knew about it, he probably didn't even do the mods himself.
Chalk it up to bad luck, and don't cry too much.
I know it sucks, but this is why you see EVERYONE on here say "don't buy a modded car unless you know/trust the seller."
Live and learn.
01-01-2005 | 08:21 PM
#52
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From: Pacific N/W
Man I'm sorry to hear about your bad luck. One thing that came to my mind was, it sounds like this guy use all high dollar parts for the engine. What are the odds that he knew the $3 O-ring was not in and went ahead with puting the rest of the engine together?
Hope it all works out for ya.
Hope it all works out for ya.
01-02-2005 | 05:49 PM
#53
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Update on the car. Basically the engine is stripped. and the crank is off at the machine shop this week. Rod and bearings, ect are all ordered and on the way. I also had to order a new BMR Kmember because the PA one is BENT !! 
Basically when the car rolled off the truck, the left rim was bent, so I just replaced the rim and hoping nothing was bent.. ya well the Kmember is def bent But I am ordering that myself within the next few days... also putting new transmount (poly) putting all the trans bolts back in (some bolts were missing!!!!) ABS exiter rings are not in the rear so im putting those in (I knew about that when the abs and srs light came on when I started it for the first time but didnt know about it prior to sale) I would love to get a set of KOOKS and Y-pipe but I cant really find one for cheap. its just one thing after the next lol I think I should just ge a credit card just for this car.
Basically when the car rolled off the truck, the left rim was bent, so I just replaced the rim and hoping nothing was bent.. ya well the Kmember is def bent But I am ordering that myself within the next few days... also putting new transmount (poly) putting all the trans bolts back in (some bolts were missing!!!!) ABS exiter rings are not in the rear so im putting those in (I knew about that when the abs and srs light came on when I started it for the first time but didnt know about it prior to sale) I would love to get a set of KOOKS and Y-pipe but I cant really find one for cheap. its just one thing after the next lol I think I should just ge a credit card just for this car.
01-02-2005 | 07:59 PM
#54
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From: Sacramento, Ca. /Waco, Tx.
Ehh...I'm sorry to hear about everything man, that really sucks...but things like this do happen, and you can't look at it as the end of the world. (Not saying you did)
I had my '98 Trans AM..bought it one year ago this month, and had it as a cam/exhaust/suspension car, drove it til the summer when I bought my '03 Silverado and I stopped driving the car with intentions to seriously mod it...well, I lost interest and sold the car to a buddy of mine who made some boner *** mod choices, bought all used **** for the motor, f-ed up the motor that was in it, so he bought another motor...f-ed that one up too, so then I offered him some cash for the car, and bought it back...sold the motor, tore the suspension out, to replace with all BMR/QA1 pieces for a nice road-race suspension, getting the car completely re-shot in NBM, bought all new interior pieces from Year One..not that the car needed any of this, but I am 100% rediculously **** 'bout things, and it's what I WANTED...I seriously doubt the car would have got any of this treatment from me, had I not been given a second chance with the car, and given a reason to do it all (being the car not running)
So, you gotta look at the bright side, and as a reason to make sure everything is done RIGHT this go-around, and you'll be completely satisifed in the end. I learned my lesson on buying things used with my mustang I used to have, and I will NEVER again buy anything used AGAIN.
I had my '98 Trans AM..bought it one year ago this month, and had it as a cam/exhaust/suspension car, drove it til the summer when I bought my '03 Silverado and I stopped driving the car with intentions to seriously mod it...well, I lost interest and sold the car to a buddy of mine who made some boner *** mod choices, bought all used **** for the motor, f-ed up the motor that was in it, so he bought another motor...f-ed that one up too, so then I offered him some cash for the car, and bought it back...sold the motor, tore the suspension out, to replace with all BMR/QA1 pieces for a nice road-race suspension, getting the car completely re-shot in NBM, bought all new interior pieces from Year One..not that the car needed any of this, but I am 100% rediculously **** 'bout things, and it's what I WANTED...I seriously doubt the car would have got any of this treatment from me, had I not been given a second chance with the car, and given a reason to do it all (being the car not running)
So, you gotta look at the bright side, and as a reason to make sure everything is done RIGHT this go-around, and you'll be completely satisifed in the end. I learned my lesson on buying things used with my mustang I used to have, and I will NEVER again buy anything used AGAIN.
01-02-2005 | 08:31 PM
#55
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From: Temecula,CA
Originally Posted by 2001ws6ramair
about 3 months ago, I purchased "out2getu"'s 2000 SS. Stupid of me that the car was in TX and I was in pa and bought the car sight unseen with trust as my eyes. Anyway. to make a long story short, I drove the car less then 1500 miles. I took it out maybe once a week and didnt even get a chance to beat it yet. So im driving down the road, next thing i notice its tapping a lot. I pull it over and shut it down for a few. Start it back up... slowly the tapping stopped and I kept on driving. Happened again about 15minutes later even louder. Sounded like a bottomed out lifter to me. But I took the car to a very highly recomended speed shop and they told me #1. the engine had to be pulled out. #2 it doesnt sound good! After a month of the car sitting at the shop.. This is what the shop says....
Hey Kevin,
George just pulled apart the bottom end. Few things we found that were interesting. The oil pump o-ring was stuck in the bottom of the oil pickup tube (So it was in the main oil pan at one time). I believe that when someone went to install the oil pump the o-ring dropped in the pan and they never bothered to open the pan to get to it or didn't realize this. So you had no o-ring in the oil pump where it belongs. This is more than likely the cause of oil starvation and in turn spun the rod bearing.
George said that it may be possible to resize the rod and it would be fine, but he does notice a few marks on the rod that would not be repairable. His suggestion is to get a new rod. The rods are Oliver I-Beam rods. This piston attached to that rod struck the cylinder head. George scrapped the carbon off to make sure there was no major damage but it definitely got whacked.
Crank needs to be cut .010/.010 because of the bearing.
4 of your pistons are coming in contact with the crank. These 4 pistons need to be notched/clearanced so they don't whack the crank again.
Good news! The cam is fine and so are the lifters.
This is what you will need:
R&R Motor $1000
R&R Top End $500
R&R Bottom End $500
Rebalance Rotating Assembly $300
Clearance 4 Pistons $100
Cut .010/.010 Crank $100
Main Bearings $70
Rod Bearings $70
LS6 Oil Pump $90
Oil Pump O-Ring $3
Oliver I-Beam Rod *I will call for pricing* Probably be around $150-175
Gasket Kit $82
I would recommend also doing a set of cam bearings while we are in there they are $35 installed.
Dyno Tune $450
I will need to get your approval to order the new rod and then get this block over to our machine shop.
George said that whoever put this motor together is a 'shoemaker'. He turned high performance parts into high performance junk pretty quickly.
This is the message I got from one of the best perfomance shops around here. I trust there opinion very highly. I had a very bad feeling about this whole thing. I should of never trusted someone else. So basically....
Hey Kevin,
George just pulled apart the bottom end. Few things we found that were interesting. The oil pump o-ring was stuck in the bottom of the oil pickup tube (So it was in the main oil pan at one time). I believe that when someone went to install the oil pump the o-ring dropped in the pan and they never bothered to open the pan to get to it or didn't realize this. So you had no o-ring in the oil pump where it belongs. This is more than likely the cause of oil starvation and in turn spun the rod bearing.
George said that it may be possible to resize the rod and it would be fine, but he does notice a few marks on the rod that would not be repairable. His suggestion is to get a new rod. The rods are Oliver I-Beam rods. This piston attached to that rod struck the cylinder head. George scrapped the carbon off to make sure there was no major damage but it definitely got whacked.
Crank needs to be cut .010/.010 because of the bearing.
4 of your pistons are coming in contact with the crank. These 4 pistons need to be notched/clearanced so they don't whack the crank again.
Good news! The cam is fine and so are the lifters.
This is what you will need:
R&R Motor $1000
R&R Top End $500
R&R Bottom End $500
Rebalance Rotating Assembly $300
Clearance 4 Pistons $100
Cut .010/.010 Crank $100
Main Bearings $70
Rod Bearings $70
LS6 Oil Pump $90
Oil Pump O-Ring $3
Oliver I-Beam Rod *I will call for pricing* Probably be around $150-175
Gasket Kit $82
I would recommend also doing a set of cam bearings while we are in there they are $35 installed.
Dyno Tune $450
I will need to get your approval to order the new rod and then get this block over to our machine shop.
George said that whoever put this motor together is a 'shoemaker'. He turned high performance parts into high performance junk pretty quickly.
This is the message I got from one of the best perfomance shops around here. I trust there opinion very highly. I had a very bad feeling about this whole thing. I should of never trusted someone else. So basically....
Then about 4 Days Later i heard the tapping sound that u described..Annoying and it got raspier at higher RPM's (go figure). Long story short, i paid for a new crank, 1 new rod, new pistons from speed pro, rings bearing, arp bolts, balanced and installed for $4800..I got a new motor out of it 
Thinking postitive 
That sucks man. Sorry to hear it. Good luck on your repair. 
