what kind of times should i see
#1
what kind of times should i see
i have a 2001 trans am ws6 i have a 3200converter,hooker long tube headers with off road y pipe,stock cat back,speed inc basic tune and a 315,35,17 bfg drag radial. the best time i got out of the car is a 12.73 at 107 with a 1.83 60 foot the car has 68,000 miles if seen car with the same mods go alot faster just wondering if thats a deseant time or not im also full weight nothing taken out of the car.
#2
Originally Posted by WICKED T/A
i have a 2001 trans am ws6 i have a 3200converter,hooker long tube headers with off road y pipe,stock cat back,speed inc basic tune and a 315,35,17 bfg drag radial. the best time i got out of the car is a 12.73 at 107 with a 1.83 60 foot the car has 68,000 miles if seen car with the same mods go alot faster just wondering if thats a deseant time or not im also full weight nothing taken out of the car.
#4
I have basically the same mods, except the addition of the TR 224, and M/T drag radials . With a "not-so-good" tune I went 11.90 @112 with the convertor locking up going into 3rd. I'd think you should be around 12.30-.40 @109-110. Get that 60-foot down........buy some Mickey's woo-hoo!
#6
im dead hooking the car out of the hole thats what im wondering why. i thought it was a little slow. i live in streamwood il a burb of illinois the temp when i went that fast was about 60 in late september so not a lot of humidty. i even used a set of mt et streets on 16in rims before and same 60 foot the car runs the same allmost all the time
#7
anthonyz281999: WTF are you smoking? Drop the 60' a little and go high 11's?
When I ran with a 3500 stall converter, ET streets, longtubes, duals, and a lid I went 12.62 @ 106.5 on 1.73 60's, in a '98. However, I did remove the front sway bar, rear seat, AIR, EGR, spare tire and jack.
Only difference in mods is that I have a lid where you have an LS6 intake. That difference is pretty close to a wash. You have a little better mph than I did (0.5), but aren't getting off the line quite as well. How high did you stall the converter coming off the line?
Your runs aren't that far off. Being full weight and without a lid can't be helping you much, and neither can the stock cat-back.
When I ran with a 3500 stall converter, ET streets, longtubes, duals, and a lid I went 12.62 @ 106.5 on 1.73 60's, in a '98. However, I did remove the front sway bar, rear seat, AIR, EGR, spare tire and jack.
Only difference in mods is that I have a lid where you have an LS6 intake. That difference is pretty close to a wash. You have a little better mph than I did (0.5), but aren't getting off the line quite as well. How high did you stall the converter coming off the line?
Your runs aren't that far off. Being full weight and without a lid can't be helping you much, and neither can the stock cat-back.
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#9
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
anthonyz281999: WTF are you smoking? Drop the 60' a little and go high 11's?
When I ran with a 3500 stall converter, ET streets, longtubes, duals, and a lid I went 12.62 @ 106.5 on 1.73 60's, in a '98. However, I did remove the front sway bar, rear seat, AIR, EGR, spare tire and jack.
Only difference in mods is that I have a lid where you have an LS6 intake. That difference is pretty close to a wash. You have a little better mph than I did (0.5), but aren't getting off the line quite as well. How high did you stall the converter coming off the line?
Your runs aren't that far off. Being full weight and without a lid can't be helping you much, and neither can the stock cat-back.
When I ran with a 3500 stall converter, ET streets, longtubes, duals, and a lid I went 12.62 @ 106.5 on 1.73 60's, in a '98. However, I did remove the front sway bar, rear seat, AIR, EGR, spare tire and jack.
Only difference in mods is that I have a lid where you have an LS6 intake. That difference is pretty close to a wash. You have a little better mph than I did (0.5), but aren't getting off the line quite as well. How high did you stall the converter coming off the line?
Your runs aren't that far off. Being full weight and without a lid can't be helping you much, and neither can the stock cat-back.
#14
Originally Posted by WICKED T/A
i launch the car at about 1700 to 2000
#16
ok lets walk down a small check list...
1. when you are racing you are puting the car in 3rd and not drive right?
2. are you 100% sure your stall is what you think it is? (the reason i ask is if you want a 3500 stall then it needs to be a 3500 stall for a bolt on car, not a high hp 3500 stall)
3. are you sure you are going strait to WOT when you launch and not riding 3/4 throttle out of the hole?(i have seen 3 people so far doing this and they didn't even know it...
4. leave your launch rmp where it is, this will allow your verter to "flash" higher then if you footbrake higher rpms...
bolt on cars (hell most stock cars ) should not "deadhook" on nittos... comming out of the hole right you could take a tenth out of your 60'.... that would net you a 12.5 you will probably find another tenth or 2 in a cutout...
1. when you are racing you are puting the car in 3rd and not drive right?
2. are you 100% sure your stall is what you think it is? (the reason i ask is if you want a 3500 stall then it needs to be a 3500 stall for a bolt on car, not a high hp 3500 stall)
3. are you sure you are going strait to WOT when you launch and not riding 3/4 throttle out of the hole?(i have seen 3 people so far doing this and they didn't even know it...
4. leave your launch rmp where it is, this will allow your verter to "flash" higher then if you footbrake higher rpms...
bolt on cars (hell most stock cars ) should not "deadhook" on nittos... comming out of the hole right you could take a tenth out of your 60'.... that would net you a 12.5 you will probably find another tenth or 2 in a cutout...
#18
Originally Posted by kjmdrumz3
Not to hijack, but I was wondering why this is so.
Hopefully one of our sponcers that build 4l60's will step in and clearify this,
but as i understand it, in 3rd gear 2 things are better for racing.
1.all of the parts are moving in the same direction
2. in 3rd ALL of the clutches engaged but in OD only 3-4 clutches do...
again, i dont clain to be an expert about the internal workings of the 4l60, but i have seen more then one builder say this...
#19
I have seen what you said, that it uses more clutches in third than in OD. But I have also seen at least one person say that the confusion arrises from the fact that it uses less clutches when actually IN OD (4th). Clarity on the subject would be nice, but if I had to guess I'd guess it is better to run it hard in drive and not overdrive.
#20
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
I have seen what you said, that it uses more clutches in third than in OD. But I have also seen at least one person say that the confusion arrises from the fact that it uses less clutches when actually IN OD (4th). Clarity on the subject would be nice, but if I had to guess I'd guess it is better to run it hard in drive and not overdrive.
well i do know i have seen a car that would not shift (tranny dieing) while it was in OD , but put it in 3rd and it would(still did not shift great but it allowed it to limp to the shop)
so there is definatly some differances....