View Poll Results: Which is the most noticible gains in HP?
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Which addition has the most noticeable HP gain?
10-12-2005, 06:51 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by dailydriver
Obviously at those power levels they must be using every trick in the book to avoid lag (methanol injection, high tech "bang-bang" system [anti-lag], intercooler sprayer/chiller and some I've probably never heard of). I would love to own one of these someday, but it is hard/expensive enough to bring a stock one over here, let alone a highly modded monster. Would be fun to scare the crap out of the imports/riceboyz with something they've never seen before and cannot figure out what it is that's running from them at warp speed (and can and will still kill them in the "twisties")!
either a Ford RS200 Group B rally car (they made a few road versions). These predate the Cosworths and Sti's. Infact this car is solely responsible for bringing the demise of the Group B rally car. It may only have a 1.8 but full out maximum race trim gave 690bhp, with a turbo of course.
Or maybe this, a Metro 6R4, mid engined V6. It's only 3.5 litres and n/a but make 450bhp, however this engine also found fame in the Jaguar XJ220. Funnily enough it's a development (extensive) of the old Rover push rod V8, which was original designed by Buick in the mid 50's. There's some Rally X 6R4's making well over 750bhp and weigh less than 2200lb.
10-12-2005, 07:37 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
Personally I'd go for something a bit odd ball,
either a Ford RS200 Group B rally car (they made a few road versions). These predate the Cosworths and Sti's. Infact this car is solely responsible for bringing the demise of the Group B rally car. It may only have a 1.8 but full out maximum race trim gave 690bhp, with a turbo of course.
Or maybe this, a Metro 6R4, mid engined V6. It's only 3.5 litres and n/a but make 450bhp, however this engine also found fame in the Jaguar XJ220. Funnily enough it's a development (extensive) of the old Rover push rod V8, which was original designed by Buick in the mid 50's. There's some Rally X 6R4's making well over 750bhp and weigh less than 2200lb.
either a Ford RS200 Group B rally car (they made a few road versions). These predate the Cosworths and Sti's. Infact this car is solely responsible for bringing the demise of the Group B rally car. It may only have a 1.8 but full out maximum race trim gave 690bhp, with a turbo of course.
Or maybe this, a Metro 6R4, mid engined V6. It's only 3.5 litres and n/a but make 450bhp, however this engine also found fame in the Jaguar XJ220. Funnily enough it's a development (extensive) of the old Rover push rod V8, which was original designed by Buick in the mid 50's. There's some Rally X 6R4's making well over 750bhp and weigh less than 2200lb.
Yup, I know about all of that, was a WRC fan way before Group B (back to the Escort BDA days!). I agree with you on the RS200s, but they are just too hard to find and 3-4X the price of Escort Cossies when you do find them. That being said I just cannot imagine what an "evolution" 2.2 litre 800+ hp RS200 rallycross car feels like!!
10-15-2005, 02:29 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by 300bhp/ton
it's not a case of knowing how to drive, it's just physics. The Fbody's are big and heavy and will never change direction like a small lightweight car.
Cross country a well driven Lotus Elise with 118bhp will easily pace a Ferrari F550, it's been proven many times.
I've run with sports/super bikes on the twisties in my TR7 V8, it only has 230bhp but it's lightweight and handles pretty decent.
Cross country a well driven Lotus Elise with 118bhp will easily pace a Ferrari F550, it's been proven many times.
I've run with sports/super bikes on the twisties in my TR7 V8, it only has 230bhp but it's lightweight and handles pretty decent.
Hopefully this'll change though, as my driving improves and as I mod the Camaro... although he'll be able to fix his setup too. It's an uphill battle... sigh. 
10-17-2005, 05:07 PM
#25
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When I started modding my car, I did, LID, headers, and 3 inch custom exhaust, and I could tell the difference right away. Intake and Ported TB are going to be my next step, and them heads and cam.
I read alot of threads before I did anything to my car, everyone on this site is great when it comes to giving advice and sharing there knowledge of things......Hope this helps out in some way or another.
I read alot of threads before I did anything to my car, everyone on this site is great when it comes to giving advice and sharing there knowledge of things......Hope this helps out in some way or another.
10-19-2005, 11:32 PM
#27
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to stick to the orgional point of the thread... Id say do exhaust first. I love my qtp's and I also love my true duals. Very noticeable gain, and to be honest, incredible sounding! But Thats up to you. A good order to do is...
Lid
Longtubes/full exhaust
intake
cam
heads
If you are an auto, throw an aftermarket torque converter in the mix either before or directly after exhaust in the order previously mentioned!
Lid
Longtubes/full exhaust
intake
cam
heads
If you are an auto, throw an aftermarket torque converter in the mix either before or directly after exhaust in the order previously mentioned!
10-22-2005, 10:33 PM
#28
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Stock 13.42 quarter 2001SS M6
add:
Fast Toys Ram Air/KNN filter
Smooth Bellows
Custom tune
Descreened MAF
3" Custom Exhaust w/bullits
New plugs and MSD wires
Lower Control Arms and Brackets
T/a Cover ( To me one of the most important parts, saves your rearend)
Nitto's
Strut Tower Brace
All adds up to 12.72 quarter at Bradenton Motorsports Park in Florida in 95 degree weather
I haven't decided on which headers yet so I'm running stock headers at this time. No cam, no blue printing, etc. Next will be sub frame connectors because the car has t-tops.
I did the suspension first because I turned the pinon at the track on a hard launch and almost toasted my rearend
Good Luck!
add:
Fast Toys Ram Air/KNN filter
Smooth Bellows
Custom tune
Descreened MAF
3" Custom Exhaust w/bullits
New plugs and MSD wires
Lower Control Arms and Brackets
T/a Cover ( To me one of the most important parts, saves your rearend)
Nitto's
Strut Tower Brace
All adds up to 12.72 quarter at Bradenton Motorsports Park in Florida in 95 degree weather
I haven't decided on which headers yet so I'm running stock headers at this time. No cam, no blue printing, etc. Next will be sub frame connectors because the car has t-tops.
I did the suspension first because I turned the pinon at the track on a hard launch and almost toasted my rearend
Good Luck!
06-21-2006, 02:36 PM
#31
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Originally Posted by natronathon
to stick to the orgional point of the thread... Id say do exhaust first. I love my qtp's and I also love my true duals. Very noticeable gain, and to be honest, incredible sounding! But Thats up to you. A good order to do is...
Lid
Longtubes/full exhaust
intake
cam
heads
If you are an auto, throw an aftermarket torque converter in the mix either before or directly after exhaust in the order previously mentioned!
Lid
Longtubes/full exhaust
intake
cam
heads
If you are an auto, throw an aftermarket torque converter in the mix either before or directly after exhaust in the order previously mentioned!
its not on the list but my most noticible hp mod was definitly my nx wet nitrous kit whoo whhoooo
06-21-2006, 02:57 PM
#32
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id say go with the airlid first. NOTHING has shown better gains in HP with stock cars than airlids. and its also one of the easiest mods. i wouldnt get an exhaust till you were ready for like a true Dual setup. and then get the TSP true dual with some Pacesetter headers. will runn you about 700 bucks combined. but that will be a good combo for hp gain.
like someone esle stated before anything. if the car has Alot of miles. changing all the fluids.. meaning transfer case rear/axel ect ect and having the plugs are a good choice. why mod a car that isnt 100% healthy.
after getting headers/exhaust/airlid if you dont plan on getting anythign else for a while a dynotune would be the next thing. you probly will squeeze out a decent ammount of HP compared to what you gained from your mods. and a tune will make the car run alot better. and HP isnt the only thing that makes you quicker. faster shifting for autos ect also help alot.
like someone esle stated before anything. if the car has Alot of miles. changing all the fluids.. meaning transfer case rear/axel ect ect and having the plugs are a good choice. why mod a car that isnt 100% healthy.
after getting headers/exhaust/airlid if you dont plan on getting anythign else for a while a dynotune would be the next thing. you probly will squeeze out a decent ammount of HP compared to what you gained from your mods. and a tune will make the car run alot better. and HP isnt the only thing that makes you quicker. faster shifting for autos ect also help alot.
06-23-2006, 11:31 AM
#38
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in the end. since we are tlaking only bolt-on/ easy stuff.
i dont see anyhting giving you better peformance than headers/fullexhaust/
but as far as getting the best results from a track. stock for stock for stock vs any bolt on.
a set of drag radials will net you the best Gain in regards to ET. their is no better/easier way to knock off 2-3 tenths off a a time than from 0-60ft
and when you consider DRs can go for as little as $140 a piece. $280 dollars isnt a bad price to pay to go from say a 13.4-6 to a 13.1-3
i dont see anyhting giving you better peformance than headers/fullexhaust/
but as far as getting the best results from a track. stock for stock for stock vs any bolt on.
a set of drag radials will net you the best Gain in regards to ET. their is no better/easier way to knock off 2-3 tenths off a a time than from 0-60ft
and when you consider DRs can go for as little as $140 a piece. $280 dollars isnt a bad price to pay to go from say a 13.4-6 to a 13.1-3
06-25-2006, 08:32 PM
#40
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Too bad the topic wasnt performance gain instead of horsehower gain. I just did a bolt on mod that gained me .4 sec in the 1/4 mile but no horsepower gain. I have a stock 98 TA with only a lid and went a best of 13.94 @ 101.33. I installed a Vigilante 3200 stall converter and went 13.53 @ 101.33. 60' time went from 2.05 to 1.90. I did use BFG DR's after the converter install, didnt need them before. Personally I'm going with exhaust as my next mod.