blkZ28spt

Nothing to worry about on an LS1 with a hydraulic cam.

If you use a method such as an air compressor plugged into the spark plug socket you can hold the valve all the way up. If you use the TDC method (which is what I did, no extra tools needed) the valve will drop slightly before catching on the piston. It's nothing you can't manage.


Yes, smaller end faces down and their is a ridge in the locks that lines up with the valve stem's indentation.

Through a hole in the flywheel, not in the teeth. Do it carefully and with someone else moving the crank slightly to get it in there solidly, so it does not move from where you put it when turning the crank bolt.


Not sure what you are asking. It's the only belt besides the serpentine, when you can get to it slip it off. Easy.

lol
It'll all make more sense when you get in there. For a simple cam swap (heads stay on the car) the valve shouldn't go anywhere. Unless you do TDC method and drop a valve without putting that cylinder's piston up, then you may be pulling heads and oil pan.

Havn't looked at a retainer for awhile...but yes from what I remember the flatter part faces up and the bottom has a ridge that kind of centers it by fitting inside the spring.....I think...

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badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

thanks for excellent feedback. nice writup on cam swap I don't have acces to a torch but I do plan on a 6 point 24mm deep socket to remove balancer.

I decided to buy a cheap $100. air compressor/ compression check air tube for spark plug.

will the crank timing gear just slide off using my hand? if not can I use the 3 jaw puller that I intend to use on the harmonic balancer?

How important is the cam breakin fliud?

I looked at cheap $1.99 pen magnets was l barely bending the clip back and it snapped off now I'm thinking maybe adding duck tape to hold it in place.

Lastly for right now I plan on cleaning the cam with brake cleaner and rag but when lubing it up it seams better not to lube the intire cam (making it slipery and hard to hold ) I plan on lubing it as it go'es in.

Thanks again from newbie on his first cam swap.

blkZ28spt

The crank gear shouldn't be hard to take off. If it doens't come by hand only a small amount of force should be required, at which point you could use the three jaw puller if you like.

You don't need cam break in lube. Just clean the cam up well (I used brake cleaner) and give it a good coat of oil before installing.

I wouldn't use pen magenets. Don't trust them. I prefer the dowel rod method.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

1.timing cover seal is removed by hitting the back of it so I'm assumming laying the new seal on the front of the cover and pressing it in.

2.when cam is about 1/3 way out can I remove the bolts used as a handle to initially remove it and expect enought room to totally remove or will the AC condensdenser still have to be moved?

3.Whats the trick to installing the double roller timing set?
I'm thinking while pump is loose from block and still conected to pickup tube grab pump and pull out slitely to bend the pickup tube about 1/8 inch about the size of the oil pump spacer plate?

4. Lastly I never hear mention of assembly lube on ends of push rods is this not recommended?

Thanks again

blkZ28spt

You will want to slide the condenser out of the way before you even get to removing the cam. If you don't until then, removing the bolts won't do you any good you will still have to slide A/C out of the way. It's not a big deal though, no reason not to.

No assembly lube is needed. Not for anything. Just make sure the parts are clean and use oil on them.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I was asking about the condenser because I will be doing this completely on my own I don't know anyone who will lend a hand.

1. Last ? when you say doll rods I'm assumming you made you're own JRP tool out of wooden rods and inserted it into the block horizonitally?

2.The new crank bolt I'm not certain if it is the 1 inch longer than stock to ease the balancer removeal ?what is the lenght of the stock crank bolt?

Thanks for all the helpfull advice.

will post up sound clips of before and after when done.

blkZ28spt

Yes, if you search on cam installs you will see a lot of people use dowell rods, usually wood sometimes steel and they are the same idea as the JPR tool. I forget what size they are, 5/16" maybe? Or was it 3/16"...might have to sand down the one that goes into the pasenger side for it to fit. Remember to spin the cam around by hand to get the lifters up inot their cups (off the cam) before putting the rods through.


The new crank bolt use for final assembly is the same length as the original. Idon't know the length of the stock bolt. I, stupidly, did not get a longer crank bolt but got a halfway matching bolt from Menards at the last minute. You use the longer bolt or a threaded rod/nut in order to give the 3 jaw puller more ability to remove the pulley.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I noticed that the head of the ARP bolt I received is taller I'm guessing thats the extra inch.

these dowls or rods used to hold up the lifters I'm assumming they should be exact lenght of cam?

Thanks

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

I thought my tranny cooler was 16K because I mearsured it 7inches X 16 inches 1 inch thick, is this how coolers are rated by the size?

because I saw a 7x20x1 rated at 20K?

it's been a while since I installed it I'm thinking I got the 20K I purchased it from a Mickey mouse speed shop.

if it's 20K then will it be big enought for the 3k TC I have plan?

Thanks

slowprocess

iTrader: (9)

So, guys.....I'm upgrading the converter in my truck( currently aTCI streetfighter 3000) to a fuddle 3200, so would the TCI 3000 be a good every day driver stall for me to just slap into the car with it pretty much stock? It's a 2000 SS. No cam yet, just whisper lid and cutout and stock gears for the moment. Thanks.

badmfkr

iTrader: (4)

OK Guys just installed the VHP 216/224/551/551/115 MYSELF. haven't had a chance to stand on it yet (want to break in springs not break them). Thanks for all advice & surport.

I have more ?s remember I'm a newbie.
1.Cam alinement dowl should only stick halfway though the cam gear hole right?

2.I noticed a slite scoring on the cam retainer plate can I expect the cam to chew this plate up in the future?

3.The ARP crank bolt is this just to be used to ease the install & removal of the balancer and I should reuse the stock crank bolt?

4.Will I now allways have a noisy valve train?

5. install ? I used the 5/16 wooden dowel rods inserted then removed stock cam when I tryed to install new cam there was a lifter roller obstructing the cam hole 3rd turd from end so I used the pen magnet to raise it ? how did this lifter get under the dowel rod?

6.a small piece 1/2 inch of the timing cover gasket was damaged I added some hi temp RTV can I expect this gasket not to leak?

7.I did'nt strech the balancer bolt I just used a breaker bar an a cheater pipe and tightened it I was concerned about this so today I put car on a lift locked flywheel this dude had a real big torque wrench about 3 feet long set to 250LBs and I could'nt move it a bit, I did however break a medium sized srecwdriver that was wegded in flywheel should I take this crank bolt out buy a new bolt and tighten to 40 Ft. then 140 dergree turn?

8.how many miles constitutes a heat cycle for the PRC double springs only driven 20 miles and let it cool last night I'm thinking it mite be better to break in springs a little longer before I start standing on it?

9.Lastly I noticed a small blob of mud on the radiator cap I discarded the fluid (been in there for 2 years) should I be flushing out the cooling Sys. if so what flushing solution is recommended.

Comments my timing chain had alot of slop about an 1/2 inch now I'm thinking this was the main cause of my hi RPM detonation.

Thanks again for all the surport