My Set-up
05-23-2006, 11:23 AM
#21
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Originally Posted by firechicken2k
i have installed a lot of the mods you're thinking about (variations of them anyway.. Pacesetters instead of Kooks for instance 
)
Can give you an advice about a lowering kit:
SLP springs & SLP shocks mated to those springs. I just got these installed this past Saturday - and couldn't be happier
Lowered about an inch, and should lower about .5" more as it settles. The gap is gone, and no clearance issues whatsoever.. even with my TSP catted ypipe, which does hang sort of low..
)Can give you an advice about a lowering kit:
SLP springs & SLP shocks mated to those springs. I just got these installed this past Saturday - and couldn't be happier
Lowered about an inch, and should lower about .5" more as it settles. The gap is gone, and no clearance issues whatsoever.. even with my TSP catted ypipe, which does hang sort of low..
05-23-2006, 11:24 AM
#22
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Originally Posted by 99camarosupersport
i have hooker LT's, 3" ORX with flopro twister mufflers dumped before the axel 3" all the way. i had a magnaflow setup before the true duals, same headers and a ORY. i'm not sure about louder as i've never heard a gmmg exhaust. the TD's made it louder obviously over the magnaflow ( they are quiet as hell ) but more than anything simply improved the sound quality, gave it a deeper tone. like i said the interior noise is not that loud, my dad was very surprised when he drove it. if you want you can shoot me a PM with your email and i can send you a soundclip of my cammed TD's. it gets compliments all the time from people on the road.
05-23-2006, 02:55 PM
#23
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Originally Posted by Allergik2dyin
Basically I'm looking for that good musclecar sound. Great sound quality with a deep tone and no rasp. I'm weary about dumping it, but I know going all the way out the back is expensive. Plus I think dumps on a T/A don't look very good. My email is criley92@comcast.net
i *love* how my pacesetter LTs + tsp catted ypipe + tsp rumbler sounds. it ROARS on WOT
very throaty and no rasp at all. a little drone in the interior, in the 1600-2000 rpms range, but that is it. barely more loud than stock on idle.ive listened to a lot of different setups in person before deciding on that one..
in my opinion, loudmouth + LTs sounds like a pissed off lawn mower.. but others love it
wife and i just bought a digicam today by the way, so i can take some pics of how SLP springs + TTIIs look, if you'd like.
05-23-2006, 06:05 PM
#24
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Originally Posted by firechicken2k
sound quality is relative, whats good to some is crap to others..
i *love* how my pacesetter LTs + tsp catted ypipe + tsp rumbler sounds. it ROARS on WOT very throaty and no rasp at all. a little drone in the interior, in the 1600-2000 rpms range, but that is it. barely more loud than stock on idle.
ive listened to a lot of different setups in person before deciding on that one..
in my opinion, loudmouth + LTs sounds like a pissed off lawn mower.. but others love it
wife and i just bought a digicam today by the way, so i can take some pics of how SLP springs + TTIIs look, if you'd like.
i *love* how my pacesetter LTs + tsp catted ypipe + tsp rumbler sounds. it ROARS on WOT
very throaty and no rasp at all. a little drone in the interior, in the 1600-2000 rpms range, but that is it. barely more loud than stock on idle.ive listened to a lot of different setups in person before deciding on that one..
in my opinion, loudmouth + LTs sounds like a pissed off lawn mower.. but others love it
wife and i just bought a digicam today by the way, so i can take some pics of how SLP springs + TTIIs look, if you'd like.
05-24-2006, 12:26 PM
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Couple things.
Suspension: Go with Koni SAs for shocks. Lower the perch height on the front Shocks and remove the rear isolators. that should lower the car''s stance a bit and give you an idea of how your clearance will be. Especially since you're going with long tubes. Then if you still think you can go lower, get some Ground Control Coil overs. They're around $400 but you can easily udjust them to the desired height. That way you'll get the Ride height you want, not what you're stuck with and you won't sacrifice performance. the worst thing would be to buy some springs, lower the car, scrap your collectors, and then have to take the springs back off.
You may even want to skip the SFCs if you do the shocks first. I've heard of some autocross guys actually cutting off the SFCs after putting on Konis. Our stock Decarbons cause the body to flex, it's really not that weak.
But really, I'm no expert. Talk to Sam Strano about suspesion. He is THE MAN.
Engine: Just a few easy things.
160* Thermostat. Cheap and easy gain.
Is it a Ram air ws6? or just stock induction? If it's stock induction, you may want to go with a Fast Toys Ram Air. I've heard nothing but good things from them.
Get what ever lid you want. There's really not much of a difference (unless it's a Ram Air model, then go with a Dual Cone Intake. That's just my opinion though.
Remove the AIR/EGR (if it has it) systems (all the tubes and the little motor in the front under the headlight... extra wieght you dont need)
Also you'll probably need !cags, deletes the skip shift.
If you want best of the best with room to grow, get a FAST 90mm intake manifold, With either a FAST or Nick Williams 90 mm throttle body. Although I hear the Weiand/Holly/Ligenfelter Manifold is great for FI, just garbage on N/a.
Just some thoughts. Feel free to disagree.
Suspension: Go with Koni SAs for shocks. Lower the perch height on the front Shocks and remove the rear isolators. that should lower the car''s stance a bit and give you an idea of how your clearance will be. Especially since you're going with long tubes. Then if you still think you can go lower, get some Ground Control Coil overs. They're around $400 but you can easily udjust them to the desired height. That way you'll get the Ride height you want, not what you're stuck with and you won't sacrifice performance. the worst thing would be to buy some springs, lower the car, scrap your collectors, and then have to take the springs back off.
You may even want to skip the SFCs if you do the shocks first. I've heard of some autocross guys actually cutting off the SFCs after putting on Konis. Our stock Decarbons cause the body to flex, it's really not that weak.
But really, I'm no expert. Talk to Sam Strano about suspesion. He is THE MAN.
Engine: Just a few easy things.
160* Thermostat. Cheap and easy gain.
Is it a Ram air ws6? or just stock induction? If it's stock induction, you may want to go with a Fast Toys Ram Air. I've heard nothing but good things from them.
Get what ever lid you want. There's really not much of a difference (unless it's a Ram Air model, then go with a Dual Cone Intake. That's just my opinion though.
Remove the AIR/EGR (if it has it) systems (all the tubes and the little motor in the front under the headlight... extra wieght you dont need)
Also you'll probably need !cags, deletes the skip shift.
If you want best of the best with room to grow, get a FAST 90mm intake manifold, With either a FAST or Nick Williams 90 mm throttle body. Although I hear the Weiand/Holly/Ligenfelter Manifold is great for FI, just garbage on N/a.
Just some thoughts. Feel free to disagree.
05-24-2006, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by 99camarosupersport
whatd u think of the exhaust?
05-24-2006, 12:42 PM
#32
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Originally Posted by Mike2kZ
Couple things.
Suspension: Go with Koni SAs for shocks. Lower the perch height on the front Shocks and remove the rear isolators. that should lower the car''s stance a bit and give you an idea of how your clearance will be. Especially since you're going with long tubes. Then if you still think you can go lower, get some Ground Control Coil overs. They're around $400 but you can easily udjust them to the desired height. That way you'll get the Ride height you want, not what you're stuck with and you won't sacrifice performance. the worst thing would be to buy some springs, lower the car, scrap your collectors, and then have to take the springs back off.
You may even want to skip the SFCs if you do the shocks first. I've heard of some autocross guys actually cutting off the SFCs after putting on Konis. Our stock Decarbons cause the body to flex, it's really not that weak.
But really, I'm no expert. Talk to Sam Strano about suspesion. He is THE MAN.
Engine: Just a few easy things.
160* Thermostat. Cheap and easy gain.
Is it a Ram air ws6? or just stock induction? If it's stock induction, you may want to go with a Fast Toys Ram Air. I've heard nothing but good things from them.
Get what ever lid you want. There's really not much of a difference (unless it's a Ram Air model, then go with a Dual Cone Intake. That's just my opinion though.
Remove the AIR/EGR (if it has it) systems (all the tubes and the little motor in the front under the headlight... extra wieght you dont need)
Also you'll probably need !cags, deletes the skip shift.
If you want best of the best with room to grow, get a FAST 90mm intake manifold, With either a FAST or Nick Williams 90 mm throttle body. Although I hear the Weiand/Holly/Ligenfelter Manifold is great for FI, just garbage on N/a.
Just some thoughts. Feel free to disagree.
Suspension: Go with Koni SAs for shocks. Lower the perch height on the front Shocks and remove the rear isolators. that should lower the car''s stance a bit and give you an idea of how your clearance will be. Especially since you're going with long tubes. Then if you still think you can go lower, get some Ground Control Coil overs. They're around $400 but you can easily udjust them to the desired height. That way you'll get the Ride height you want, not what you're stuck with and you won't sacrifice performance. the worst thing would be to buy some springs, lower the car, scrap your collectors, and then have to take the springs back off.
You may even want to skip the SFCs if you do the shocks first. I've heard of some autocross guys actually cutting off the SFCs after putting on Konis. Our stock Decarbons cause the body to flex, it's really not that weak.
But really, I'm no expert. Talk to Sam Strano about suspesion. He is THE MAN.
Engine: Just a few easy things.
160* Thermostat. Cheap and easy gain.
Is it a Ram air ws6? or just stock induction? If it's stock induction, you may want to go with a Fast Toys Ram Air. I've heard nothing but good things from them.
Get what ever lid you want. There's really not much of a difference (unless it's a Ram Air model, then go with a Dual Cone Intake. That's just my opinion though.
Remove the AIR/EGR (if it has it) systems (all the tubes and the little motor in the front under the headlight... extra wieght you dont need)
Also you'll probably need !cags, deletes the skip shift.
If you want best of the best with room to grow, get a FAST 90mm intake manifold, With either a FAST or Nick Williams 90 mm throttle body. Although I hear the Weiand/Holly/Ligenfelter Manifold is great for FI, just garbage on N/a.
Just some thoughts. Feel free to disagree.
05-24-2006, 12:44 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by Mike2kZ
Is TD True Duals or Turn Downs? I've heard both used.
05-24-2006, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Allergik2dyin
True duals is what I'm refering to and what it's usually refered to. Turn downs would just be how the exhaust pipes of true duals are positioned. Although Im sure you already knew that haha.
05-24-2006, 08:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Allergik2dyin
Sound is subjective that's why it's hard to distinguish between set-ups. But yours sounds nice. Deep, aggressive, but not obnoxious. I would like some pics of the springs with the tt2's. Thanks man.
well you've seen some pics already, i'll PM you a bit more.as for the sound, i'll do a walk around of my car with my digicam (takes movies
) then you'll hear it.
05-24-2006, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by Mike2kZ
to me true duals go all the way back usually with a bullet muffler or something in them. where as turn downs end before the axel and to me are more annoying inside the car.
05-24-2006, 10:55 PM
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oh and to add this....delete the emissions crap and take it out if you can it's worthless as you can tell i like to pollute the ozone haha, and SFC's are a night and day difference in a good way. as for the cags etc. a tuner can delete that for you when you go into get your tune, so i would just leave it on there until that point in time to which you actually NEED a tune.
05-25-2006, 12:49 AM
#38
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Originally Posted by firechicken2k
well you've seen some pics already, i'll PM you a bit more.as for the sound, i'll do a walk around of my car with my digicam (takes movies
) then you'll hear it.
05-25-2006, 08:30 AM
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and allergic, my TD's with an offroad xpipe actually tuck better than my ORY with the magnaflow.. and only ran me 200-300 can't remember with all the parts and labor.
and only ran me 200-300 can't remember with all the parts and labor.
05-25-2006, 11:58 AM
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The thing with the exhaust is that I'm worried about ground clearance and sound quality. I know with gmmg I'll have good ground clearance and a great sound. With true duals I may have to change my set-up 2 or 3 times before I get it right, maybe losing money and time in the process.