Cheap Speed
07-13-2006, 11:03 PM
#21
TECH Resident
iTrader: (1)
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: LaGrange, KY
Posts: 872
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Lid, P&P TB, stall, full exhaust, LS6 intake, LCA's, SFC's, Shocks, then 12bolt...that's the order i'd go in if i had an automagic, then of course if u wanted to go further nitrous, heads & cam package would be bitchin 
07-14-2006, 07:46 AM
#23
Tech Resident
Originally Posted by HD1911
First of all you misspelled CONSISTENTLY wrong...second i happen to own a built she-matic thank you 
07-14-2006, 05:20 PM
#25
12 Second Club
iTrader: (13)
Join Date: May 2006
Location: Henderson, KY
Posts: 380
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
corny. i'm sure i could go through your post history and find spelling errors, too.
07-14-2006, 09:44 PM
#27
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by HD1911
Ok big guy, you WILL be buying a good external tranny cooler should you go the stall converter route. On the highway there is ABSOLUTELY no difference between a performance stall and a stocker. They both lock-up. You will be turning the same rpm's and everything. Now, i have a 3600 with a high str and it takes just a tad more gas to get moving. But honestly, i got used to it the first day i drove it and now when i drive a stock auto, i hate it...absolutely hate it. When you put your foot to the floor with a high stall....HOLY ****!! launches like a bat outta hell. And as far as the rear, you have an auto which is a hell of a lot easier on rear diffs then 6 spds. I have stickey mickey drag radials and once in awhile out on the street i will get a dead hook...lemme tell you what, it feels like the ******* car is gonna pull a wheelie. Dont be worried about breaking your rear, dont let that be the reason why you dont get a stall.
07-14-2006, 11:08 PM
#28
11 Second Club
Get..........a.............converter.............n ow!
Absolute minimum stall speed of 3,000. My personal recommendation is 3500 rpm minimum. It is the single biggest bang for your buck you will find. I don't count nitrous, per say, because it is only available for a relatively short period of time and 99% of your driving it'll do nothing but sit there.
Do some searching in the automatic transmission section to learn about converters.
What you should look into buying: Vigilante or Yank converter with stall speed of 3k-4k, B&M 24k gvwr trans cooler, tranny temp gauge, Trans go shift kit, subframe connectors and Nitto NT555-R drag radials (if it's a street car). You may or may not need 'basic' tuning of the shift points or torque management for it to run correctly.
It gets expensive quickly. All of those things could easily run $1,500-$2,000 or even more if you pay somebody to install them, depnding on what particular parts you choose.
Absolute minimum stall speed of 3,000. My personal recommendation is 3500 rpm minimum. It is the single biggest bang for your buck you will find. I don't count nitrous, per say, because it is only available for a relatively short period of time and 99% of your driving it'll do nothing but sit there.
Do some searching in the automatic transmission section to learn about converters.
What you should look into buying: Vigilante or Yank converter with stall speed of 3k-4k, B&M 24k gvwr trans cooler, tranny temp gauge, Trans go shift kit, subframe connectors and Nitto NT555-R drag radials (if it's a street car). You may or may not need 'basic' tuning of the shift points or torque management for it to run correctly.
It gets expensive quickly. All of those things could easily run $1,500-$2,000 or even more if you pay somebody to install them, depnding on what particular parts you choose.
07-14-2006, 11:23 PM
#29
ahhh the good ol 10 bolt. pray everyday it doesnt give up with a big stall and DR's. it doesnt like to be shocked. ahh i remember when i first busted mine. 200 feet of rubber and over 500 feet of axle and ring teeth and my pinion gear olling down next to the car and springs n **** flyin all over the place. it was an awesome sight to see
07-15-2006, 12:36 AM
#30
On The Tree
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Chicago
Posts: 134
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by blkZ28spt
Get..........a.............converter.............n ow!
Absolute minimum stall speed of 3,000. My personal recommendation is 3500 rpm minimum. It is the single biggest bang for your buck you will find. I don't count nitrous, per say, because it is only available for a relatively short period of time and 99% of your driving it'll do nothing but sit there.
Do some searching in the automatic transmission section to learn about converters.
What you should look into buying: Vigilante or Yank converter with stall speed of 3k-4k, B&M 24k gvwr trans cooler, tranny temp gauge, Trans go shift kit, subframe connectors and Nitto NT555-R drag radials (if it's a street car). You may or may not need 'basic' tuning of the shift points or torque management for it to run correctly.
It gets expensive quickly. All of those things could easily run $1,500-$2,000 or even more if you pay somebody to install them, depnding on what particular parts you choose.
Absolute minimum stall speed of 3,000. My personal recommendation is 3500 rpm minimum. It is the single biggest bang for your buck you will find. I don't count nitrous, per say, because it is only available for a relatively short period of time and 99% of your driving it'll do nothing but sit there.
Do some searching in the automatic transmission section to learn about converters.
What you should look into buying: Vigilante or Yank converter with stall speed of 3k-4k, B&M 24k gvwr trans cooler, tranny temp gauge, Trans go shift kit, subframe connectors and Nitto NT555-R drag radials (if it's a street car). You may or may not need 'basic' tuning of the shift points or torque management for it to run correctly.
It gets expensive quickly. All of those things could easily run $1,500-$2,000 or even more if you pay somebody to install them, depnding on what particular parts you choose.
i had been meaning the ask someone, what are the difference in sizes you get? thanks
07-15-2006, 08:15 AM
#31
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by RiPPinZ11
yea if i got one i would get a yank, from what i understand they r the best (if not one of them). i no a good amount about converters cuz im on thise site every night and look at them most of the time. the only questions i have are about the 24k gvwr trans cooler u mentioned.
i had been meaning the ask someone, what are the difference in sizes you get? thanks
i had been meaning the ask someone, what are the difference in sizes you get? thanks
The coolers are normally routed in line with the fluid that goes through the raditator, after the radiator and before going back to the transmission.
07-15-2006, 09:37 AM
#32
Teching In
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Charleston, SC
Posts: 32
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a quick little thing, more bang for the buck is great. Just remember, there are some serious weak points in your driveline that need atleast a little work (rearend package from Texas Speed should do nicely, don't forget the carrier). Also, no matter what, you need to put that power to the ground, not your tranny. SFC's LCA's and a new torque arm with relocation kit should be lined up for the near future. Just my .02
07-17-2006, 03:11 PM
#34
11 Second Club
Originally Posted by stangeater99
I had the same question. So a stall wont be that bad to the rear? How bout the tranny have any of u guys had to rebuild or replace? 
<-------- Whole new transmission and new to me rear end here.
1.64 60's will do that, I guess.
